Deal on a 1000
 

Made a deal over the phone tonight for a 1000. Supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Price was right, including delivery, so I agreed without seeing it in person. I'll post some better pics once I've got it. Not currently running, but supposedly will run, just needs carb or points work. Turns over, has compression, just won't start. Side panels are included.

Based on what I am seeing on CL, only about 5% or less of WF cubs for sale are gear drives. Figured I better grab some while I still can. I guess they've all been picked up by pullers?

Congrats on your 1000!

Hopefully it won't take much to get it going :ThumbsUp:

Congrats on getting the 1000! Looks in good shape!

Congrats on the 1000 looks like its in good shape :beerchug:

I don't know what it is about the gear drive quietlinea but I love em I can't seem to like the hydro versions. Nice find

I like the WF gear drives, too. Have a couple others, and there is something about their simplicity which is reassuring. That hydro stuff is magic, you know. And the speed controls are finicky on these old tractors.

Try burnishing the points, make sure the gas shut-off is open, clean spark plug then try it.

Also, coil may have failed. I'm gonna need a new coil for my 800....I power-washed my mower deck with it 20 feet away from the Cadet....Must have splashed coil somehow. No spark at wire or plug.

Nice find on the 1000!

Getting a coil wet won't make it fail..... :bigthink:


Great find on the 1000!! :beerchug:

Got the 1000, paid $300 which included $50 for delivery from 50 miles away. So, not bad--$250 for the tractor.

Missing the air cleaner, and muffler shroud sheet metal. It has a different PTO clutch on it compared to my other QL tractors. Also, the oil fill tube doesn't go straight down into the block, it's attached to the side of the block. That's different than any of my other K series engines, so this is probably not the original engine. Disc brakes were disconnected (but there) , no shift knob, and the manual lift is stuck--the button won't go down. The rust on the hood goes pretty deep, but not through, so with a little luck, it'll be OK. The brake/clutch safety switch looks like it's been bypassed (no spring to actuate the switch). The PTO electrical switch seems to be stuck. All in all, in OK shape, but not a "barn find."

On the other hand, it's a WF gear drive!!

looks good.

Looks fine! Nothing that can't be fixed. You will have it in top shape in no time!

Not bad at all! :beerchug:

I'm planning on rebuilding this 1000, but won't get into it in earnest for a few weeks. Just stocking up on some parts. First purchase.

Nice wish I could run across a wiseframe creeper. Not a bad lookin little setup the 1000 and 1200 are the only cubs I currently have and love em. If ya don't mind could ya let me know if ya find anyone parting one out? Need in some gear drive specific parts

Nice find on the creeper!

Very nice find SDD, I'm currently gathering missing parts and slowly fixing up a roached out 800 but with some decent options. Looks like we are in the same boat and I'm really digging the different aspects of the gear drive q/l's. I'll be watching this close.
P.S. I'm thinking After looking at your pictures I might want to try to use a k241 q/l muffler like yours since mine is MIA and rediculous to find/buy. Hmmmm

Nice pickup on the creeper!

This helps your storage space problem how?
LOL
:beerchug:

I've been slowly accumulating parts for the 1000 restoration. Air cleaner, wheels, manual lift, etc. Took the hood and side panels to the sandblaster the other day. I did manage to get the engine to run by using a battery pack attached to the coil, a ground and touching the clip to the starter. So I know the engine is not too bad. Carb needs work, of course. PTO seems to work too, so that's good.

Pulled the engine tonight to discover it was held by only two bolts, and the iso mounts are collapsed. The clutch is shot. The seat is toast, too. Will continue to disassemble and make another pile to take to the sandblaster. Trying to decide how far to go with this build. I'll post some pics tomorrow--phone died tonight.

It has 23x9.50x12 tires on the rear, so those will be replaced with 10.50's. I think I'm going to go ags on all four wheels like I have on my 149. I know some of you think the ags on the front are silly, but I like the look. Will think about that...

Sounds like its coming along SDD. Are you still in need of a muffler? I have one. Btw I like the front ags idea.

I picked up a muffler a couple weeks ago, but thanks for the offer. As for your 800, I'd for sure use the K241 muffler.

Got a bag of parts from CCSpecialties yesterday, so they are back in business after the fire. Iso mounts, flex couplings, ect. Still need more stuff, but will wait until I get it apart.

Cant wait to see the build start. Its making me want to dig my 1000 out and do something with it

That's probably the right engine. I have 2 1000's, a 1200 and several 1250's. They all have the dipstick tube on the side.

Ok, that's good to know. Once I pull the head I'll see if it needs more work or just a new head gasket. My dipstick tube is loose, and comes off easily, so I'll be looking for a way to keep it in place--some epoxy would probably do it.

I prefer geared tractors myself, it just seems stronger to me... good deal on a nice unit!

Unfortunately they like to buy and chop them up around here too!:bash2:

My neighbor has a nice 1000 that's been sitting in his barn for 5 years. Maybe I can weasel it ou from him.:bigthink:

Finally some pics of the work so far on the 1000. A couple evenings of dis-assembly as you can see. Slotting the foot pad screws and using a large screwdriver and wrench to remove them. About half required this treatment. Otherwise, everything came apart easily.

Some more discoveries: 3 pin driver has been weld repaired, brake pads are toast. Looks like the voltage regulator/rectifier has been replaced at some point.

Overall, the condition is pretty good--I don't see any major damage anywhere. Front axle was loose, but came apart easily. I've seen MUCH dirtier rear ends, too. All the removed parts are going to the sandbast shop. On all my earlier tractors I've been sanding, grinding and wire brushing all the parts prior to painting. That's such nasty work, I'm trying this approach for a change. This shop seems reasonable and it's close to my office so I can run over there at lunch and drop stuff off.

--Next step is to split it, clean up, prime and repaint the rear end, change axle seals, check bearings, replace rear cover gasket and refill with HyTran.

--Remove the steering wheel, and steering gear, clean, rebuild. It's pretty sloppy right now. Dash tin needs work, might try to find a NOS one if I can.

--Sand and wire brush the frame and dash tower sides to remove rust. Will apply rust restorer paint as a primer and repaint.

I ordered some brake lining material from McMaster a couple months ago, so I might try relining my pads. I remember somebody else did that on here, so I'll follow that procedure.

Will keep everyone posted.

Thanks for the pics and update!

X2! :beerchug:

end of the Driveshaft don't look too healthy either. Sure looks like someone has "cobble crafted" the flex plate. Or is it even a flex plate? Looks different than either of my 1000's or the 1200.

Not sure--what are you calling the flex plate?

the 3 pin driver that bolts on the engine w/4 short 1/4" bolts. Looks different , much heavier duty than any of mine for some reason.

It's called the drive plate assy. but I always call it the 3 pin driver.
That is one off an 800. I will take that off your hands sawdustdad!:biggrin2:

wouldn't the 800, 1000, 1200 all have the same drive plate? It's different than the one used on earlier tractors, like my 108, for example. I can see that.

Cubcrazy, I'd happily oblige, but that would leave me drive-plate-less. And sad.

I just had to replace one on my 1000. $125.00.
It has to flex on a GD QL because the engine is NOT bolted to the frame solid like the earlier GD's.
Hence the term "flex plate"

Mine was a "parts tractor" I got couple years ago and already had the driver trashed, like completely torn from the center hub. I decided to bring it back from the dead so to speak, got it running and operating now with the new plate.

Parts look-up shows flex plate for the 800 as #106545-C93 and lists for $213
flex plate for the 1000-1200 is #117591-C1 and lists for $132.00 and is also noted as replacing the 106545-C93 for the 800.
So, it appears that early on they were different than the 1000-1200 judging from the part numbers.

Disassembly progress-got steering out, gauges out, dash tin and tower off. Split the tractor, just not able to get the manual lift arm off. I started drilling out the roll pin with a solid carbide drill bit, but having trouble getting the proper angle due to closeness to frame. Will need to get a long extension for the bit in order to drill the hole straight. Heat, PBBlaster, BFH not helpful. Open to other suggestions.

Only electrical issue I could see is a bad PTO switch.Ordered a bunch more parts, including a NOS dash tin from CCWarehouse. Still want to get a spring assist.

Took most stuff to the sandblaster yesterday. He's shooting the parts with Kem Kromik primer, and asked about what I was painting the parts with. I told him I was using rattle cans. He suggested I go get some paint from Sherwin Williams and he'll shot everything while he's got the parts hanging after priming them. Additional cost would be minimal. I went to the Pro/Industrial S/W dealer, and they want paint samples to match the colors, could not look up the IH color codes. Does anybody have any experience with sherwin williams paints and have suggestions? The painter suggested a quick drying/single stage paint for ease of use (he's not interested in messing with two part paints or added hardeners). In any case, it would be better than rattle can paint and probably no more expensive.

Frame is separated but still sitting atop the rear end in this pic.

Thanks for the explanation, I didn't now that.