1782 re-furb
 

Got a chance to do a little on the 1782 today. Pulled the engine out, it will be getting gauges to go along with the factory idiot lights. While the engine is out I will clean and repack the CV joint for the steering. The fan belt was on the verge of breaking so that is getting changed. I relocated the sender for the high temp warning to the head from the thermostat housing. Then I drilled and tapped the T-Stat housing for the temp gauge. Got lucky on this one, every bolt on the exhaust manifold came out with no problems. Not nearly as easy to work on the smokers as the air cooled gassers but not too bad. I’m not going for a total restore at this point more of a do what needs to be done project.

Sam,
Do you have a post on here that details how you do the gauges? I saw a picture on another post, but I would like some more detail. That gauge setup sure looked like a professional job. I finally got mine running and the proper wires jumped so it will start correctly, now it's time to improve. If you want to send a PM to me instead that would be fine. I understand that maybe you can't post details on here, but as far as I'm concerned, if I screw something up it's may fault even if someone else showed me what to do. I guess I look at it as being my choice to modify something and not like they made me do it.
Thanks,
Geoffrey

You were busy today Sam!:beerchug:

I'm going to use a set of Sun Pro gauges form auto zone they are only about $30 for the 3 oil pressure, water temp and volt meter and they are mechanical. The Cyclops are challenged for space so the 1-1/2” gauges work the best. I did 2” stuff on my 2182 and it was a PITA to make them fit not to mention the cost. I can put them just above the boot for the steering column like I did on my 1641. Just one extra hole. I don't have a good pic of the gauges installed but this pic shows the 2 holes I cut with a hole saw on the 1641. The tower is hanging from the gauge holes in the pic. The 1782 will have 3 holes.

Mike

I had a nice relaxing day, would have been nice if it was a bit warmer. No rush on this one figure it will be a while before the grass needs cutting and even at that I can tough it out and use the 2182. Yeah I know it sucks to be me. LOL:biggrin2:

I hear ya Sam!:biggrin2:

Nice job Sam! If I had as much talent as you do in one finger, I'd be dangerous!:biggrin2: :beerchug:

Keep up the good work, Sam! You'll have it ready for Spring in no time.

As always, good work!

I don't see any insulation in the walls.
Is the shop not heated either? :bigthink:

John

No heat in the shop.

Very nice work Sam :beerchug:

Did a repair to one of the NLA side panels on my 1782. The locating pin was broken off. This is very common on the Cyclops tractors. What I do with them is cut the remains off flush, then drill the center out with a ¼” drill bit (go easy) next I tap the hole for a 5/16” -18 thread. Then I cut a piece of 5/16” threaded rod for whatever length I need to make a stud. Clean the cavity behind the where the pin was. Mix some 3M structural adhesive, put a little on the threads and screw the in, then fill the cavity with the remaining already mixed adhesive. When you put the side panel back on the tractor you will be able to put a nut and washer on the stud from under the hood or if it’s the lower one you can remove the plastic grill to get at it. Summit racing sells the adhesive part # TRM-8101 or click on the link.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-8101/overview/
:beerchug:

Got the holes cut for the gauges for the 1782. I'm using a set from SunPro that I picked up at Auto Zone for $29.99 with a 20% discount ended up paying $25.26 after tax. You need to cut 1-5/8” holes for these. Easy job if the engine is out of the tractor because you can cut the holes from the back side. You can do it from the front but you will need to remove the steering wheel. I locate the holes just below the lip at the top of the steel dash tower support. Part number is CP8091SW, link for the gauges.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=267578_0_0_
:beerchug:

Nice work on the gauges, Sam!

:beerchug: Go Sam go, lol.

I like it Sam! Did you hook up the backlights too? :bigthink:

Not yet. Just getting things test fitted. Not in a rush on this one, I have a couple months before I can use it. Just ordered all new hoses and a fan belt from the Kubota dealer for it. They should be in end of the week. The boots for the drive shaft are toast so waiting on those also. I need to relocate the head light switch because I plan on putting a choke cable where the switch is now for a shut down for the engine. The Cyclops diesels had an electric solenoid for a shut down, it's NLA it went bad and the PO removed it. It had a zip tie that was set up to pull to shut it off. Gotta love some PO mods.

Looking good my friend!

Looking good Sam. My 1782 has a pull cable to shut it off. I had assumed it was factory. It's a first year build 1782. Now ya got me curious.........:bigthink:

Josh

I just looked at the early 1782 parts on the Cub parts site and this is what they show. I don't know what to tell you. Any chance of you posting a pic of how yours is set up?
:bigthink:

Gauges look good Sam!

I assume that the shut-off is NLA from Kubota?

Sam,
Here are some pics of my setup. Only had her a couple months. Notice I did say I assumed it was factory.......:biggrin2:

I'll have to look at it closer to see if there's a wire somewhere just hanging out. The shutoff works great. A lot better than the throttle shutoff on my other smokers. After looking at the pics again, if you look at the last pic, just left of the fuel filter, it looks like an unused plug. Prolly for the missing electric solenoid. :bigthink:

Jon

It's not a Kubota item.

Josh someone replaced the shut down on this one. Cub123 stopped at my place today and one of his has also had a choke cable installed for a shut down. I have an unused 3 wire plug that looks like it was for the shut down.

Nice warm day today so I got a few things done. Removed the steering shaft and the drive shaft. Then I gave it a final pressure washing before I start putting it back together. Cleaned out the parts washer, it was getting nasty. I'll be doing some work on the rear end and dirty fluid in the parts washer doesn't get it for me when I'm doing hydraulic or gear work. Cleaned up the shop a bit still more to go before I open the rear up. Plan is to get the engine back in first so I have space on my work bench.:biggrin2:

I wondered, but didn't take the time to look. It's not unusual at all for a shut down solenoid to be supplied by the manufacturer of the "vehicle". Just curious, if I could get a replacement part number, would you, or anyone else be interested? I personally, would just do the kill cable thing. Just asking because we run into those solenoids being NLA, or too expensive from various companies all the time. There are "universals" out there.


That's funny. I did the same thing today! :biggrin2:
Mine had about 2"-3" of "slop" in the bottom. :angry:
Next on the list.... the oil burning furnace, and the jet tank. :beerchug:

Jon

The way the shutdown works if I have it figured out is it will shut the engine off with the key or the safety switches, then when you go to start it the solenoid strokes in the opposite direction.:bigthink:

I have a cable and that is what is going on it.

Yep I had mud in the bottom of the parts washer. NASTY. One of those jobs I hate.:biggrin2:

Guys,
You can look at the link below. I think the Kubota 1A externally switched kit is correct for the 1782, but I have not bought one yet to know for sure.

Woodward shutdown solenoids

SA-4269-12 (Externally Switched; 3 wire) $170.00 (This price was current as of Nov. 12 when I asked about them).

Thanks very much for the info. I think if I was going to sell this one and I was concerned about the safety systems working as designed I would probably go for it. Considering that it will be me operating it, the $170 + or – cost and that I already have a choke cable, I’m going the cheap way out this time.

That is probably about the price I would have found. Sam, IIRC, there is a module somewhere that controls the solenoid. When it is at rest the tractor runs. When you shut off the IGN, it powers the solenoid, kills the motor, and after a few seconds "shuts off" and releases the kill rod. Again, that is IIRC. I'm with you on the whole cost thing. I'd do the kill cable too, but you are correct about future users and "safety concerns". :beerchug:

Got the new radiator hoses, thermostat, fan belt and plumbing for the gauges installed on the engine today. Just a FYI if you need Kubota parts save some $$$$ and get them from your Kubota dealer. I have a couple other little things to do and then the engine will be going back in.

I bought a Woodward soleniod kit from Northern power products in MN last year when i put a diesel in my 2182 and i wanna say it was $45-60. I have a friend that works at a kubota dealer and even with a good guy discount Northern was still alot cheaper for genuine Kubota parts.

Appreciate the update, Sam!

I'm ready to put the engine back in, just waiting for the drive shaft boots for the CV joints. It's much easier to install the CV joint on the engine while it's on the bench. Gauges are all in, headlight switch has been relocated next to the hydro lever and the engine stop cable has been installed. I had an engine stop cable from a truck that had a Detroit Diesel, thought it made sense to use that for this purpose. Did a little rattle can touch up in the engine bay just to keep the rust under control. Maybe next year I'll do a total tare down and repaint. :beerchug:

Great job, Sam!

Bet that Detroit diesel sounded great! Love the way they sound.

Allen

Think that was from a truck with a 6V-53, they were 2 stroke engines and they sucked. If they didn't have an oil puddle under them they were out of oil. They sound would give you a head ache. The newer DD's are pretty good but I'll take a big Cat any day. The engine stop cable was to close a flap over the blower inlet to shut them down when the governor took a dump and they would run away can you say hand grenade.

Ahhhhhhh two-stroke Detroits. BTDT. I was out working on a set of 6-71 twins one time. No intake on them while I was working. Big ol' guy at the place I was at standing there jabbering on about how much he knew about Detroits, and been around them :BlahBlah::BlahBlah: Anyway, got them running and went to set high-idle no load. Revved it up and I see something move out of the corner of my eye. That big ol' guy ran away and went and stood on the other side of a pickup truck! :ExtremeFunny::LMAO1: I got done and yelled, "Hey, Jeff! Where'd you go?!" LOL, he said, "Man, that thing was running a little fast don't you think?!" NO, no, Jeff..... that's just what they sound like at 2450 RPM. Big chicken. :beerchug: Had them run away too. More than one story about that! When your standing right next to it, it will make your hind end get tight enough you can't drive a nail in it. LOL.

Sorry about the :OffTopic: :beerchug:

1782 Re-Furb
 

I love following your Teardown & Rebuilds Sam! When does the youtube video series become available? You'd be great! What do others think? Remember, you have to give the public what they want! :)

ccguy
1994-1440
Western MA

ccguy

You need to submit that pic for POTW. That is a killer 1440:beerchug:

Talk about timing, John is looking for POTW pics.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...022#post230022