123 hydro HELP!!!
 

ok i am at my wits end on this one

I bought a 123 that was a parts tractor

I have a 10 hp that I just got in to it

tried to get it to move and got nothing
the relief valves were stuck so I split the tractor removed the valves and soaked them and have them freed up.

when I pulled them the white ring and o-ring were messed up (torn and distorted)
I replaced the o rings on both valves.

just got the tractor back together started the tractor and it went in to reverse for a few seconds and then nothing more. nothing in forward either.

It has fluid in it (probably needs changed) but it should be enough to move the tractor right?

if the filter is clogged would the pump bypass and still move? (the filter is from 2006 so its at least not the original filter, and it is a cub filter)

I hate to keep throwing money and parts at something like this if there is a major problem.

I know nothing as far as the history of the tractor so I am at a loss as to what to do next

I am half way thinking about cutting my losses and picking up another trans and go from there.

if anyone has any ideas I am listening

I am used to my gear drive tractors, working on a hydro is different for me


thanks

Change the filter .My local case ih has fleet farm ones for $10.

that is what I have been leaning to but don't want to throw good money after bad if it isn't the problem

There is NO bypass.

i thought there was something in the filter?

Not all filters have an internal bypass. The filter on this machine is on the suction side, and even if it did have an internal by-pass, I'm not sure the charge pump could "suck" hard enough to open it.

The filter is probably the culprit.

welcome to the club...

Thanks
this is the first hydro but I am starting to like them
They are just different

Is there a way to "bench test" the unit when split from tractor with electric drill motor wright up?.... My next question would be: {Not knowing about the history;} How can you tell if the tractor was pulled with the hydro release lever not released?

Maybe these questions answered can help decide if you should go get a known issue-free trans axel and pump unit. I have a 123 trans and don't know if it is any good.

Never know what the fluid is like inside until open up the rear cover. You can always save the transmission fluid if you determine it's good. Make a cardboard gasket. Hope you have the problem corrected at some point!

:biggrin2:

"I'd like to join the club, and beat you on the head with it."--Groucho Marx

"I wouldn't belong to any club that would have me as a member."--Groucho Marx

.....sorry, I couldn't resist Marx bros. quotes on that Lew.

Like others have said, it sounds like a filter problem. Without the fluid changed out and the transmission reservoir cleaned out and re-filled with new fluid, you may have to change the filter a couple of times in order to fix the problem. If the fluid is really bad in there, then it may clog up several filters. I have known instances where guys had to change the filter up to 3 times to fix the same problem that you described when they didn't also change the hydrostatic fluid. However, you might get lucky and just change the filter this time around and it could work just fine. It is a calculated risk...

Cub Cadet 123

If this were my tractor, I would change the fluid and filter and wash the rear end out really well.

As someone said earlier, you can't tell what's in there until you pull the cover (it could be full of water, or mud). If you simply put a new filter on it you could suck up another big glob of crud out of the rear end and be right back where you are now, only $10.00 poorer.

I believe that finding a bad hydro is somewhat unlikely (not to say that there aren't ANY bad ones out there, because I'm sure there are), I have bought several Cub Cadet hydros over the years that one would think should go straight to the scrap yard, but honestly have never gotten a bad one yet.

I would also check the valves again, I have seen them where they look like they are all the way up but aren't.

I have also heard tell of people "bench testing" them with an electric drill before putting them back in, I'm sure this is possible but finding an electric drill with a 5/8" chuck might prove to be something of a problem.

I test them with a cordless drill. Drill won't run them for more than a minute or so. Made an adapter to connect to the pump. It has a nut on the end and I just chuck up a socket to the drill. As others have said clean it out. new fluid and filter first.

There you go Sam that looks like just the ticket!

okay guys I got the filter changed the,pulled the valves back out and soaked them in fluid. Now she moves Thanks

Good to hear!:beer2:

the fluid was bad looking (sort of) some small globs but not that bad.
the other thing that was the major one was the valves never really wanted to pop back up when they were pushed down ( I really didn't realize that )
soaking them in the hytran made that happen nicely.

It was nice to actually drive this one that was supposed to be a parts machine

just have to makeup a new wiring harness and then start using her and then get it ready for winter (predicting cold and snow ) so I am going to get some chains on and a plow :)

And wheel weights. Whether you decide on a snow thrower or blade, you do need weight over the rear tires to maximize traction.

Wheel weights work best since it's a rotating mass and isn't as hard on the bearings as weight on the tractor.

just because everyone likes videos

http://youtu.be/j4xm1OH4urg

Great news and thanks for sharing your vid!