Got the boys a new pad and they died.
 

Was mowing with 1450#1 and it died. Spark tester, no spark. Filed the points and he ran a while and died again, no spark. Changed out coil and condenser from #2. Ran awhile and died again. Every time he died, I turned the PTO off, didn't make a difference. I even ran a wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil, he still died. Put #2 together and he ran a while, then died. Started right back up, ran a while then died again, I pulled the choke out 1/4 and he ran for a while and died again, pulled the choke out half way and ran for a while and died, pulled the choke out 3/4 and ran for a while and died again, full choke didn't run. Oh, the battery on #2 was dead. Voltage regulator is the small box on the right top rear of the engine, correct? Any ideas about the running problems? What a day, got CD's man cave organized and they both died. Got an acre to push mow tomorrow. I gotta git em right or get rid of em.

Sounds like a fuel problem to me, since it ran with the choke pulled out. Maybe water or trash in the tank or fuel line or carb?

Sorry, to hear about your cubs, but they have a nice home.

Hope you get the problem figured out.
Seems strange that they both are acting up at the same time :bigthink:

This is my vote as well. tank vent plugged, pick up in the tank plugged, carb bowl trashed.

Could just be some bad fuel. Put a 1 oz. of HEET in with 1/2 gal -3/4 gal of fresh gas and see if that cleans up the line. How old is the fuel that you have in them now? Sometimes, you can just get some bad fuel. Today's fuel, like a whole lot of other things, just isn't what it used to be and somehow they charge more for it?:bigthink:

Cub Cadet 123

I mix MMO with the fuel, purchased 5 gallon before I started mowing. Old fuel in both tractors wasn't a month old. Plugs show both engines to be operating a little rich. Shed is nice, thanks. Been waiting 5 years for it. Now that I have all 5 tool boxes empty and hung up, I can get things organized. Just finished hanging tools before I started mowing yesterday.

If you come visit me for three days, you can make my shop look that nice!! :bigthink:

I will pay for the food, and work on your Cubs as barter!! :biggrin2:

I hate adding anything to gas, all fuel additives have been negative, for me.

Others have had good results with them. :bigeyes:

My SIL almost ALWAYS adds chain saw oil to the 1861, he seems to always grab the wrong gas can. :banned:

I have had to start hiding the chain saw gas, to stop him!!

Hope you figure out the problem, soon, the grass ain't gettin' any shorter!

:Huh:

Actually, my wife set the shed up.

I think #2 choke problem is repaired. I cleaned the carb and found 12 small jelly like balls in the bowl, about the size of a pin head. I added a capful of Heet to both fuel tanks and my weed wacker and push mower. I used the weed wacker and push mower and could hear a difference after using them.
#1, I've ran a temp wire from the coil to the points and have a temp wire to place between the battery and coil. If neither of those do the trick, I have an extra set of Chevy points. Hopefully it won't be raining tonight so I can drive them both around.
If #2 is ok, I intend to pull the steering wheel and dash tower and inspect all the hydro linkage. I've got to get the shifter closer to the actual neutral position and hopefully get the hydro working as it should.

You may want to read this before you spend too much time pulling your steering wheel and dash.

http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

If you found the jelly in the bowl, it's likely it's in the main jet too. Sounds like you had some E 10 fuel saturated with water. I don't think the Heet will remove it but you can try it. I would blow the carb out with air.

Did read it, did the adjustments. Tee bolt on both 1450s are bottomed out. Neutral on the hydro is fine, it's the shifter that I can't get into neutral. I appreciate the help. This afternoon, I drove #1, (may call me an idiot, but the coil was wired wrong). Ran fine until it stalled out, then wouldn't crank. I had power to the solenoid, but not out. The small wire had no power either. Could the solenoid being bad affect the ignition? Drove #2 for a while, choke on to run appears to be repaired by the carb cleaning. Hydro still nowhere near correct. Still speeding up, I think due to shifter movement. Pulled the hood adjustment plate off and inspected the shifter linkage. Just a rod with 2 spring pins off the shifter. I have a small amount of slop there. I tightened the shifter friction nut. Then I wiggled the cross rod from the shifter, lots of play there. Found the large bolt on the right side of the dash tower. It has a nut on the inside. The bolt is hollow, the cross shaft going into the bolt. I put the old small trunion spring in it to tighten up the shaft. Spring was too long. I found a small rubber washer that fit in the bolt and reinstalled it. No side play now. I put the shifter in forward and applied the brakes. Neutral position is fine. Shifter in reverse, apply the brakes, shifter stops short of neutral. I got to watching the plates on the hydro. I can pull up and back on the plate and reverse goes into neutral like it should. That tells me something is binding, but I have no idea what. Maybe when I filed out the trunion after it was welded, I did it wrong? Maybe trunion space for springs isn't long enough? Any one have measurements for the rectangle the pins and springs fit into?

Pulled the fender pan this morning, great having a shed! Like Roland said, pictures really help so here ya go! All hydro linkage appears tight, no binding that I can find. Note the space in the "bow tie" at the trunion, (4th picture). Also note the rectangle that the trunion pins and springs fit in. Another thing, the rod that goes from the shifter cross shaft to the hydro linkage. The top swivel joint is on the right and the bottom swivel joint is on the left. Looks to me like the top should be on the left also, but both my 1450s are set up like this. From what I see, the rod that goes from the shifter cross shaft to the hydro linkage needs to be adjusted to get the shifter into the proper neutral position, (gate?), but I can't figure out which end to adjust. When I loosen the lock nut and turn the rod, either forward or reverse will be in the proper neutral position and the other won't. If you remember, the bottom joint was on the right also, but I moved it to the left to match 1450 #1.

Before and after shift rod. 1st pic is 1450 #1, 2nd is 1450 #2. I changed #2 to match #1. Now I wonder which one is correct?

#2 Looks more correct-alignment is better which typically means less loss motion and binding.

Your bowtie is worn on one side.you need to fix that.

Are u sure the bowtie is worn or did I not file the rectangle of enough for the pins and springs?

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html
I found the above article. It gives measurements.

look inside the gas tank for trash, I found a rubber o ring and a big one at that inside my gas tank from the previous owner, idk how it would have ever got in there and as I was mowing it got sucked over the hole for the fuel bowl and the tractor died, I was like :bigthink:. let it sit shook it around and fired up took out the o ring never had any problems. Same thing happen to my dads 1000. I was driving it and it died, was looking inside the tank at the right light with the sun and saw sand inside of it probably from gas over the years or sand falling off the bottom of gas cans, cleaned out the tank never had it die again, just saying its probably something stupid no need to sell them over it, I got a 1450 that runs sweet and no problems with her :beer2:

Gas tank is good, pulled it and cleaned it out. I have moved the shift rod on #2 so both ball joints are on the inside. I have a temp fix for the bowtie plate. If it works, I'll post pics. I think the dying problem with #1 may be the ignition switch. The switch had been sticking and I'd have to make it return to the on position. When it died the other day, I had no power to the solenoid, so I think it has an internal problem. Maybe when it was getting hot, I was losing contact, stopping power to the coil, resulting in the engine dying? More to come on that problem.

Used #2 last night for mowing. Engine ran great, thinking of pulling it and putting in #1. Hydro did a lot better, have slower speeds now.

Great news!