Cub Cadet 3240
 

Hello Everyone - I purchased a Cub Cadet 3240 last week and this was my first purchase of this brand. The Cub was used and I got a great deal on it, so I thought. The owner of the Cub insisted on loading it onto my trailer for me so I obliged. After getting it home I drove it off of the trailer and decided to cut some grass with my new to me mower. Right away I noticed that I had to run it at full throttle in order to get the mower to move forward. If the throttle was placed at half throttle, the Cub would not do anything even with the forward pedal pushed to the floor board. Mower moves at a crawl with the forward pedal pressed all the way down. Also noticed that the mower will not move in reverse with the reverse pedal pushed all the way down with the mower deck down and blades engaged. Pedals seem very hard to press in relation to the brake pedal which presses very easily. I did not get any manuals with the mower and have not been able to find any on line. I am beginning to think that I have a one of a kind as I cannot locate any forums discussing this particular mower. I am mechanically inclined, so I should be able to follow any advice you may have.

Thanks

You may wanna do a search and see if these models had an issue with the hydro pumps..
Is the steering quick and responsive?

Yes, the steering is very quick and responsive. No problem at all with the steering.

I have a 3000 series and they are great tractors for mowing. Did you talk to the person you purchased it from? I have heard at one time if they have the wrong oil in the rear they won't work properly more so in these then the old cubs. Here's the kicker, the "correct" oil is expensive but a few guys have run Rotella 15-40 with no problems. I just can't do that yet so I spent the bucks on the correct stuff.
A big problem with the 3000 series tractors and ones with a locking differential like you have is they will destroy themselves if not used properly. The braking system was also changed at some point to use the locking rear to stop both wheels. There are also some adjustments that could be out of wack in your pedal control system.
I have a service manual I can email you and a few owners manuals but I will need you to PM me your email. I will see if I can find the link.
MTF has several 3000 series owners over there that could also help. Good luck.

Did this machine sit outside? Start with the simple stuff first. Check the oil level and make sure the oil looks good. I would suggest changing it AND the filter. Looks like a Hydro-gear Hydrostat, and they weren't as good as the old Sunstrand units. Another thing to look at before you start draining the rear is the linkage, I've seen the linkage for the hydro freeze up from rust. You can push the pedal, but it just flexes the linkage and doesn't really move anything. With the way you describe the pedals as "hard" I'd look it over really good. Also, the little "shocks" can go bad and cause issues. Make sure to jack it up while you look the linkage over, don't want you to run over your head!!

:Welcome2:

this is kind of nuts I never knew they made a 3240 which is the 40th anniversary model I was called on a blown rear today ok now your problem I would check the oil level the one tractor that we bought had the axle bearings so gone it seized the bearing to the alum housing yours has the cast iron rear in it another thing I would do is jack the tractor and spin the tires and see if they spin easy

new cub owner
 

Thanks for all of the advice gents - at least I know where to start. I will get the correct oil and filter and change that first and then check all of the linkages as well as jacking it up and check for the rear wheel freewheeling. Email is kwik102004@yahoo.com

You guys are awesome!!!

Okay, here ya go. There is a ****load of good manuals on here.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/

Then go to Cub Cadet service and repair manuals for the 3000 series and like Ray said get the one on the cast iron rear.

Welcome to OCC! Good luck with the 3240!

I have had to adjust my pedals on my 3204 try this.
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20818

Welcome to OCC! Congrats on your 3240.

Thanks to OAK for the info on the manuals. Now that I have all of the info downloaded I can begin work. Thanks again to all of the other members that took the time out to offer their advice. Much appreciated.

I have a 3240 with same issue, and after disassembly of the rear end, turns out the four bolts in the differential came loose and backed out causing a lot of damage to the gears. The machine only has 320 hours on it. I was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. I found it unbelievable.

I had that same loose bolt problem in a 1420 that wrecked the gears. Don't know if it was a similar rear end as the 3240 or not. That 1420 was the only cub cadet that I did not like.

Tim, I hate to hear that. Can you post any pictures of yours. IIRC, I think I remember someone else having the same issue with loose bolts inside the housing too.

Was it part #17 in the diagram?
https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplima...I7aToxMDAwO319

Yes, it is part number 17. All four backed out, you could turn them by hand to finish taking them out.
Sorry, I don't have pictures available now, the machine is at my father in laws 100 miles away.

Well, I talked to Cub Cadet in Cleveland, trying to get an explanation about this or some help, and got some ofthe rudest service in my life. Ol' Bill in "level 3" did nothing but talk over me and refused to listen to any of my questions. This is the second Cub Cadet I've had, and have had horrid service on both. All they ever want to do is tell me the machine isn't worth fixing, then try to sell me a new one. I think I'm about done with Cub Cadet. Can't get honest service. Unless someone has any ideas? Any used rear end out there?

Try the sponsors at the top of the page, Pattaon and Cub classics or a member here, rweaver. They all part out used Cubs.

You may be able to rebuild what you have depending on how bad it is. Oak is pretty good with this series and I'd guess he can walk you through it.

Thanks, Sam Mac! I'll try those ideas. I might just replace the obviously damaged parts. To do it all, parts are going to cost close to a whole new rear end. Maybe not the best way to do it, but have to stop the bleeding at some point.

I also have encountered the same problem stated above, loose bolt led to busting the actual transmission case and draining all the oil over my yard/driveway (daughter was mowing so she just kept going till it stopped).

I have been searching for a parted out 3240 or a cheap used one to just replace (and use mine as parts) with no luck.

I emailed the sponsors asking if they knew of anything, but no luck there either.

Anybody know where I might find a used transmission?

I am getting ready to order a new one I guess ($1400) so really don't like that option!

Any help is appreciated.

My casing busted out as well on my 3240. I opened up the differential and found that the differential lock gear had shattered and punched the hole in the casing.

I replaced all the broken parts on the inside. As far as the casing I decided to clean everything up and put the punched out piece back into the hole. I used J B Weld Quick and sealed up the case. It worked for me and I am now using the 3240 as my main mower. Make sure the case has no hydro fluid on it. J B Weld will not stick and will probably leak.

These differential locks are very weak and I know why mine broke because every time I would spin I would push the lock peddle while it was spinning. I will not do that again.

Series 3000 Transmission Fit?
 

Does anyone know if the Series 3000 tractors hydro transmission would fit a 3240? I have the chance to buy a used one off a parts tractor (blown engine), but trying to determine if it would fit.

Any help appreciated.