Unconventional Repairs done to your Cub
 

What unconventional repairs have you made to your cub and how did you do it? What parts or suppliers did you use? Now I'm not talking about putting a V6 Chevy in your Cub, but things like using a wheel bearing to repair the steering column or fitting, electronic ignitions, or point savers etc. The little things you've done to make your Cub even better than the factory did! Lets include "other brand"parts or products that you find better or better priced for your Cub. I'm just starting into my first full restoration with a model 70 and I see new members here daily that don't know these tricks you guys have learned along the way.

Leon

Here's one for you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ed=1#post17496

Post #4

My story involves unconventional tools used during a repair.

I used my pickup and an old leaf spring to break the beads on several tires, front, rear, these rims, those rims. I had about 6 tire/wheel combos to do.

I placed the leaf spring on the drive, one end on the edge of the tire, near the rim. I'd drive up on it real slow until the bead was broken, help it with a sledge and dull chisel, and then back off.

All was going very well when the neighbor lady stopped by while walking her dog. She said "we have a set of car ramps that work if you'd like to use them". I had to explain to her how my goal wasn't to get the truck in the air, but to get the tires off the rims. She looked at me a little funny and walked away quickly. My 2500HD would have killed her ramps anyway!

The leaf spring worked so well I'll probably make a foot for it if I use it again.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2025Medium.jpg

I've probably got a dozen things for this, if I can remember all of them. I'll start with McMaster-Carr part numbers:

6058K28 for OEM-style tie rod ends, much cheaper than from CC.
60645K441 for heim joints
9528K17 for steering column bearing replacements. Keep your retainers if they're good, and buy these...enough to do about 6 steering columns...save yourself $100...
3088A234 (I think) trunion shims...takes out the side-to-side slop.
91855A335 acorn nut for steering wheel on 7 hp tractors and early 100s.
9142K1 wire loom, very similar to braided stuff used on IH-built tractors.
6445K3 snowthrower chute rotator U-joint.
95755A419 driveshaft spirol pins.
5909K32 steering column pivot thrust bearing.

I'm sure I've got more...this is what I can think of for now.

tips
 

At time when changing small rim tires I use a large c clamp to break the beads. I may make a home made clamp with a larger throat to use on larger rims like rear

When changing small rim tires I just take it to the local cub dealer drop it off.
They call me when it's done I give them $10.00 for 2 tire changes when I pick up the tires.
If I buy the tires from them they usually don't charge me any thing for the change, because I deal with them a lot.:biggrin2.gif:

ole 147

I use an air chisel with a chisel that is ground flat . hammer till you hit rim in a few spots then walk it around the bead .

my cubby 71 came with a piece of old roof shingle in the battery box. kept the b.box from rusting out. i went and got a new batt. any ways. i sure can just about farmer-fix anything! but aint had much fix'in on cubby.:Cub3:

Searching for "fuel tank repair" Had my tank all patched up with JB Weld, but now its leaking.......wonder if the Marvel Mystery Oil had anything to do with it? I do have a wright-up on this matter, but maybe you guys have one better. The leak is comming from the square piece of steel that the nipple is connected to. Not sure where I should have posted this. Thanks, John:American Flag 1:

I use a self sticking rubber mat tile I found at Harbor Freight for $2 to line the bottom of the battery box. It should help keep it dry and stop any battery acid from eating and rusting the bottom out.

Also used a battery post terminal puller to pull the cam bracket from the trunnion shaft on my 1450 hydo. It was rusted on tight the puller worked great for removing the cam bracket.

JBWeld isn't gas resistant. I have had to re-fix a LOT of tanks that people 'fixed' with JBWeld. Re-soldering it is probably the best.

johncub7172,

I've soldered several of those little square nubs back in, I say "back in" because normally, if the torch is on them for more than a few seconds the old solder will melt and the nub will fall out of the hole. So screw a longer pipe nipple into the nub so you have a "handle" to hang onto while you're soldering.

Be sure to "float" any gas out of the tank and wash it really well before applying heat with a torch.

Great idea!!

Yours looks like 1 piece. The 1 I see from HF says it is only 4 inches wide. Is yours one piece?

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...image_4195.jpg

Thanks Matt and Y.Sam. I can't stand a leaking fuel tank as I try to keep it clean. The JBWeld only held since I put the new motor in the 71, about 4 months? Gonna fix it right!

Gotta find the name from a friend's son of mine who re-builds M/C.

He takes gas tanks & pours in this epoxy filled with beads. He then slosh's it around & it fills all the voids in the tank, also covers any rust spots that really does a good job.

I'll see him this weekend & post the product.

He just restored a Simplicity tractor & did the same to the tank, the whole bottom of the tank was rust bucket. It worked like a charm.

Nik,

Nikster - the product you're talking about is "Kreem" and it's used for motorcycle gas tanks. It's a 2 part system you can do yourself but costs about $40 for the kit.

I've done it and had good results.

Richard

Lmercer:

The tile is a 12in X12in square one piece. I trimmed its width a little just to cover the bottom.

Thanks!!!!

it is called "Kream" or "kreme"!! my dad used it to redo his tank on a cushman scooter. jeff

Found out that he use's 10 ball-bearings & rolls them around to coat the entire tank. The first time that it was used was an option of spending $ 480.00 for a new M/C tank or to go this route. He swears by it.

Nik,

I'am not going to argue with you, Matt. Its says right there...fuel tanks. JB Weld is still good stuff, though. I was carefull not to over-tighten the sediment bowl....and it did last a while. See, its only this small nipple where its leaking. So, tommrow I'am gonna melt some solder over this square and hope for the best. It is always fun to set these tanks! Just hannging out this afternoon!

Breaking a Tire Bead
 

Hey Everyone,

I have a very simple way to break the bead on a tire that does not require any tools. I used to be into racing and riding 4-wheelers and many times we would get flats out on the trails many miles from anywhere.

Remove the wheel and set it flat on the ground behind your rear car or truck tire. Have only the portion of your tire, you are trying to break the bead, aligned with the tire on your car and slowly back over the tire with your car/truck tire. This pulls the tractor tire downward and breaks the bead easily without any tools. You may have to do this several time depending upon how rusted the rim has gotten over the years. I did two front and rear wheels the other week.

People in the off-road community have been doing this for years even on off-road truck tires. :biggrin2.gif:

not a repair but i have seen this done and worked real slick, there was a tractor trailer set up that slid off the road in the winter and was suck but good, he gets his buddy to come down driving an empty coal bucket has 2 sets of chains and an old 15 inch tire, hooks up the chains to each rig and puts the tire in the middle as a shock absorber. he has about 20 foot of slack in the chain and drops the hammer, when every thing tightens up that tractor trailer pops right out of the ditch and no damage to anything :bigeyes:

When I got my 100, the center of the steering wheel was busted and had been glued back together with some of the pieces missing. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the plastic coating near the rim of the wheel and then busted the plastic off the spokes and painted it. It's not perfect but it looks much better than it did. I still need to get an acorn nut for it.

Poor man's clutch spring compressor
 

Not exactly a repair... but just a repair method.

Many years ago I had to replace a clutch throw-out bearing on my 128, but it was a Sunday afternoon and I had no access to a proper spring compressor. After a minute of thought, I took a couple of 16 inch long (or thereabouts) 2x4's, and drilled centered deep holes (slightly larger than the engine shaft) length-wise using drill press and spade bits.

I then put the shaft + spring + other parts + 2x4's between two car bumpers and s-l-o-w-l-y inched one car ahead ahead until my #1 son gave me the "high sign" that the spring was compressed enough to tap in the roll pin to hold the spring compressed.

It was a long time ago; I may have left out some important detail.

Old farmer wisdom was put to use that day.

Goony

might not be "perfect" in your eyes, but that is a awesome job on the wheel, has that different look about it!!! jeff

I was carefull about the heat as Y.Sam warned. I cant say I ever done this on a cub before,yet alone any soldering, but I have repaired alot of stain glass windows w/ lead frames. I just filled in all around the square. No leaks when I water tested it, but that dont mean nothing. New oil lamp wick between the saddel and tank. Made a gasket from a piece of scrap. Scratched up the lead paint on the tank and re-painted with what red I had because I had no Federal Yellow in a spray can. Cleaned out the sediment bowl. I was wondering what the hole at 12 o'clock was on the Carter carb. I made a hole for it in the gasket, then realized there was not one on the air cleaner mount.......ughhh!! O-yea, I didnot heat out the solder seal, just filled it in. I tryed my best not to over tighten the sediment bowl to the tank, and the 90 fuel elbow. Do any of you ues teflon tape around the fuel tank nipple?

Call me crazy, I don't care.

I make it a practice to NEVER use teflon tape on ANY fuel related parts. I don't know for sure but it is my belief that petroleum based products will break down teflon tape turning it into a sticky goo that can get in and clog... places that you don't want clogged.

Nice looking work johncub7172.

Thanks Y.Sam! Just hunted down a miss-spelled thread on this matter, which you had shared alot of info. as well as others. I amazed myself on making the gasket. Got to penciling around trying to make lines to follow. Looked over on the work bench was a small tube of electric grease in one of those needel-type tubes. Smeared very little on the carb. ,stuck the gasket to it, and a darn-near carbon copie of what I needed to do! So then, heres how I trimmed the hole out. Then useing my drill index, 5/32" hole and drill bit, put the gasket on wood and drilled out a near-perfect hole for the mounting bolts!:bigthink:

Great job John! Looks pretty darn good..I guess I'm spoiled, I inherited a set of hollow punches, awesome for cutting perfect holes in gaskets! I think I have probably 40 different sizes. One of my old mechanic buddies where I worked used to sharpen the edges of a small diameter pipe to make his own..



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/GEN...unch-Set-3ZG93

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...-set-3838.html

Great job!:biggrin2.gif:


Jeff (teet)