109, 129, 149, 169 OEM CV style Joint Drive shaft
 

Hey everyone,

I'm working on a replacement Drive shaft for models listed about. I hate that self aligning connection at the motor and the rag connection at the pump. I have owned my 149 for 35+ years and have replaced those cheap connections and drive shaft just one too many times.

The drive shaft will consist of a Cub Cadet OEM Drive shaft from the Cyclopes area with grease fittings to keep it lubed. It will be a direct bolt on assembly with no fabrication at all. I'm working with a local machinest to fabricate the pump adapter and from there the drive shaft will bolt right up to those Kohlers on the tractors for the models listed above. I will most likely have the final details worked out soon. The OEM drive shaft that fits was only made for 4 different models and are hard to find, so I'm working with Extreme Motor works to fabricate the drive shafts and maybe the pump adapter.

Cost for total assembly has yet to be determined but I'm putting the proto type on my Cub this weekend.
Location ohio 45879
This item will be able to be shipped

I'm listing this to see if interest is out there for this style of drive shaft.
You can email me on this if you're interested

iuseautodesk at gmail dot com

Sam Mac on here already makes one..... Several members have already bought them.

Didn't know that. Got a link to his post?

I moved this thread because it is not a for sale add but more of I am going to make these type of thing. I'm all for the idea but when you have them for sale with a price then list it in the for sale section.

I didn't know any one had the same idea. I apologise for stepping on your toes

Your not stepping on my toes. I'm all for you developing something that will help get these tractors off "The Rag Joint" I'll be glad to help you with the project. I don't have time to get into a production deal. Maybe between the two of us we can come up with something for the older stuff. Most of my work has been for the 72 series and up and at that it has been pretty much just the Supers. I'll be glad to share what I've learned with you.

Sam, I like the idea because I really hate replacing the adaptor parts on these tractors, never mind the cost, but I wonder about removing the pivoting characteristics. Can you tell me a little about the experience with these designs?

How long have they been in service?

Looking at the image the length looks fixed, and there is no mobility in any angular direction. Does this cause any alignment issues, either during initial install, or while in service?

Mike

Sam, want to build one for my 1872? :biggrin2::beerchug:

nice work, looks good.

Mike

I didn't realize the interest in getting away from the rag joint.

Sam Mac, you stated no maintenance to the barrel style joint. You saying that these plastic barrels don't go bad or where out or are you saying you don't have to grease them.

I haven't had the time to check with the mic's, but a question has arose for me for the CV joint. Can the part #14 on an 1862 drive line (splines to the shaft) be bored to fit the shaft without splines? Then drilled with four holes for set screws? At the same time, drill into the shaft 1/16 to 1/8 depth to allow for a seating/locking point for the set screws?

If the four set screws would take the torque, all that needs done is cut shaft to length, bore that splined ball seat to fit unsplined shaft, drill & tap four holes, add four set screws. Done. install shaft. OH, don't forget to grease it.

That sounds like way more work than just using Sam's adapter and an existing shaft..... Sam's solution is really a simple one. I'm sure the four set screws wouldn't hold. If nothing else they would back out. Besides, how do you plan on getting to them to tighten them? With the driveshaft installed, there would be no way to get to them.......

J-Meck,
I will just have to put this into the AutoCAD inventor and put it thru the stress test to see if your thought on the set screws failing is true or not. Trying to tighten the set screws, I believe your incorrect in your statement and maybe because you don't see the picture that I was trying to explain. You tighten them down while on the bench.

For those 109 to 169, I still got a better idea. Put new pump adapter on pump, then bolt Cub Cadet CV style drive shaft to adapter, then bolt to factory kohler engine adapter, grease it and your good to go. Don't have to buy drive shaft from Sam Mac and Sam Mac doesn't have to fabricate drive shaft.

I got simple, take drive shaft off one tractor, put drive shaft on 109 to 169 tractor with new pump adapter.

"I will just have to put this into the AutoCAD inventor and put it thru the stress test to see if your thought on the set screws failing is true or not. Trying to tighten the set screws, I believe your incorrect in your statement and maybe because you don't see the picture that I was trying to explain. You tighten them down while on the bench."

No, I understood. What happens when they work loose? Because they will.
And, I'm not worried that the set screws won't hold...... I don't think the shaft will. It will end up looking like this one. Note: This shaft is wayyyyyy harder than one that you would be using. It's on a 40-45 gal/ min pump.

Attachment 39842

"For those 109 to 169, I still got a better idea. Put new pump adapter on pump, then bolt Cub Cadet CV style drive shaft to adapter, then bolt to factory kohler engine adapter, grease it and your good to go. Don't have to buy drive shaft from Sam Mac and Sam Mac doesn't have to fabricate drive shaft.

I got simple, take drive shaft off one tractor, put drive shaft on 109 to 169 tractor with new pump adapter."

The driveshaft is not the right length. That's why Sam makes the new one.

Sam Mac,
I do like your ideas and it is cost effective for the parts b/c the drive shafts that I'm referencing are no longer available thru CC but the parts for the shafts can still be purchased new. In comparison to the drive shafts that you are using, they can still be purchased new as well as the plastic barrels. I do commend you in your thinking.

I will consider this shaft when I go to replace the drive shaft and flex connections in my 1872 this winter. I believe the snow plowing is putting to much torque on those flex connections as well.

My 1862 already has the CV joint and have had no problems with it for the 12 years that I have owed it. Reason for me liking the CV joint so much is b/c the 1862 has been fully upgraded and customised with a 48" front end loader, dual brakes, cast iron rear, 600 lb counter weight and more. It's a beast. It also has the Cat-0 3 point hitch with a 2B rototiller with extensions. I can also run the tiller and loader at the same time from the from PTO clutch. It a Deutz clutch with dual pulleys. I got the idea from a guy that wanted me to part out his deutz tractor. His clutch bolted right up to my tractor.

Was the shaft couter bored for the set screws to seat into or was the set screws seated to the smooth shaft?

Hey I'm not trying to piss anyone off here. If I did, I apologise. I'm just trying to point out that there is an alternative. The shaft that I have used and put on my 149 tonight is unaltered and it bolted right up to the new adapter. Works perfectly like my 1862.

Glad to hear that you have a cure. Let's see some pics.

If your talking about my pic, no. The pump was connected DIRECTLY to a motor with a U-joint shaft. (Someone made this set-up) They constantly ran the motor over 2K RPM. The pump shaft was keyed, but the set screw (1/4" set screws) kept backing off, then the key would fall out. I promise, that 5/16" key way will hold more than 4 set screws, but I'm telling you... the set screws will vibrate loose. Proof is in the pics.

:TTWWP: :popcorn::popcorn:

Here is what I think. Sams idea is great and I'm going to do a few that way. The cv, 2k and 3k are better then the rag joint system but look how long they lasted. Unless your beating the absolute crap out of the tractor with rag joints they should last several years. The only setup I see that would shorten the rags quickly is using a rear pto tiller and my 982 has the original rags on it yet and it was purchased with the tiller new.
Don't ever buy a driveshaft that is the pre cyclops type. Make one from 5/8 steel.

Sam and to all,

Sorry if I ruffed your feathers but no one believes me that this is a direct bolt up with a new pump adapter plate.

I now have the motor mounted to the frame and temporarily installed the drive shaft. It fit like a glove. Once bolted to the pump adapter plate, I then checked end clearance to the motor adapter and there was about 1/4" clearance to end of shaft. This gives plenty of clearance for forward and rear end play and still having a full set of splines in each CV joint.

The shaft that I used was from an 1862 which is 18 inches long (shaft only). The 4 models that it fits are 1541, 1860, 1861 and 1862. This complete unaltered CV joints and drive shaft bolts directly up with the pump adapter in my drawing. Your pump adapter to these older pumps may be longer or shorter. You'll have to find out if it works with this shaft.

The fan will need to be trimmed to a smaller diameter but that is minor modification

I'm attaching picture of my proof of fit.

Oak,
I use my cub as hard as it will take it. I've actually ripped new flex connections out after a week of usage. Like I mentioned before, I've owned this tractor 35+ years and have used it beyound it's expectations. My usage consists of plowing, discing, harrowing, rototilling, ground ripper like extreme's,, even mowing the grass. This tractor will eventually have an identical 48" front end loader like my 1862 has and will be built stronger with stonger hydraulics. My 149 will soon have powersteering from an 1862. The front axle has already been changed with a frame reinforcement.

Trust me it takes a lot more than this to "Ruffle My Feathers". I’m all good with it. Happy motoring. :beerchug: