1200 No spark!! FRUSTRATED!!!
 

Hello all!!

Been doing a "refresh" to say on a 1200. Gonna tell you all the story first.
Got it for free with a bad 3 pin driver and throw out in pieces.
Pulled motor, clutch and had new throw out installed and bought a used but good condition 3 pin driver. In process I have done the following.
New Battery
New Battery Cables
New Grounding Locatons
New Silly-noid
New Ignition Coil- relocated to under dash
New Condenser
New Points
New Ignition Switch
New Head Gasket
New Head Bolts
New Solid Motor Mounts On Order
Rebuilt Carb
New Air Filter
New Rear End Fluid and Gasket
Repainted Deck
Sharpened Blades
New Mule Drive Belt
New Deck Drive Belt

Now I am putting everything back together, no motor mounts and rear end not hooked up yet.

Looked, looked, looked, read, read, read, checked and double, triple, quadruple checked the wiring diagram on here and now.........

NO SPARK!!!
FYI I did have this tractor running and deck pto working before all the work was done so I know it was a good unit before just bad clutch.

I dont know where to look. Any wires I have cut were to replace a bad spot or make a wire longer. Have checked all connections. Turns over awesome!!! Tryed old igniton coil. No luck. I have a test light but no anameter. One place that does not seem to have any power is the + wire off of the ignition coil.

Now I guess I have a dumb question. On new Points, is there some kind of coating on the contacts? I did not scuff them as I figured new were all good. Should I try that?

Guys this has me baffled!!! My current mower is getting close to her life ending. Its a "newer" style but it was free also. I want my CUB and I want her NOW!!! Hahahah. Im pouting writing this. Im just really frustrated. Well I am really something else but I know we dont use those bad words here. HEHEH!!

Any help would be awesome. I just want to get my motor mounts in when they get here, hook up rear end, put grill on, put mule drive on, put mower deck on and mow with her!!!

Thanks guys.
John

I think im gonna cry now... and i cant find any cryin smileys...

yes there is kinda an oily substance on the points when they are new. give them a buff with a nail file or light grit sand paper. also make sure they are gapped correctly! and also make sure the wire that connects to the points is making good contact. sounds like a points issue.

The last step after burnishing the points with 400 or finer grit paper, I wipe them down by dragging a dollar bill between the closed points.

It is it only use I can find for a single dollar, anymore!! :bigeyes:

:biggrin2:

Ok fellers.. Sounds like a plan. I tryed a finger nail file a few minutes ago after reading and researching many other posts.

Can someone explain exactly how to gap these suckers? Im not sure I know how. I will explain how I did it.

I turned crank by hand untill points were fully pushed out loose. Used a .018 feeler gauge to gap and tightened them back up. This right or WAY wrong?

Thanks!!!
John

sounds about right. if they are gapped right, you should see a little blue spark in the points when they are moving back and forth. then check to see if you have spark at the plug, if not, your problem lies elsewhere. but the points is a base point to track down a spark issue.

I've experienced "no spark" with new points with everything else correct. A wipe with fine sandpaper and "Voila!" Spark!

If that's not it, make sure you have 12V+ at the positive side of the coil (the side NOT connected to the points and condenser) with the ignition switch "on." If not, run a jumper from the battery "+" to the "+" side of the coil. Another check is to verify continuity from the "-" side of the coil to engine ground when the points are closed. Assume the rest of your starting circuit works as you said it turns over.

ok. Ive filed/sanded new and old points trying them both. regaping them both. tryed old coil and old condenser. Nothing. even tryed with lights out in garage to see if spark was even a light one. nope. i dont get it. all parts are new. new coil. new condenser. new points. maybe i havent filed them enough? i dont know but i even tryed the old ones with old point gap and regapping. nothing there either. maybe i will tinker with it more tomarrow if its not to hot.

im dumb founded. could the rectifyer have anything to do with it? everywhere i try with a test light seems to have power to everything that should have power. i dont have a meter though.

thanks all. appreciate it!!!

John

sawdustdad.. ive read and read your post. i think i understand what you are saying. i will give it a try. will running a jumper short out coil or condenser at all? just wondering. and can that jumper be left "in the circut" permanetly if it works?

thanks

im sorry. i ment to say voltage regulator.. that cause any problems?

Sawdustdad.... It was eating me up soooo BAD I had to go try your jumper. AND!!!! IT WORKED!!!!! It has GOOOOOD spark and even with out motor mounts in I got it running. I dont know where the problem lays but you know what? Im gonna put that jumper in perminatly. Dont know if it will cause problems or not but you know what I gotta have a runner when the rest of the parts come in.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU SAWDUSTDAD!!! AND EVERYONE ELSE ALSO!!!! YOU GUYS MAKE OCC THE BEST!!!

All the tricks and info I get from you all will not be forgotten!!!!!
HAND SHAKES TO ALL OF YOU AND HIGH FIVES!!!

THANKS AGAIN!!!
John

How do you plan to leave it in permanently? ..... You wouldn't be able to kill it with the key.... Or did you put a jumper wire in some other way than he described?

If I read your post correctly, you say there is no power to the pos (+) on the coil?

If this is correct, then go back to that point... No power there (pos Coil) then no power to ANY of the ignition system!

Just so we are "clear" on the subject... The pos + coil wire is fed; from the battery then through the amp meter then through the ignition switch.

When you turn the key on (to the "run" position) then you should have power to the coil (+ pos side). You can use your test light to check this.

On the neg (-) side of the coil, there should ONLY be power there when; the key is on AND the points are open. There will be no power there (coil -) when the points are closed.

You can also set the timing on your engine with your test light. Once you get the above mentioned power situation fixed, then hook the clamp on your test light to the neg coil terminal, turn the key on and touch the point to a known good ground. Look into the timing hole and turn the engine (in proper running direction) adjust your points so that the test light comes on EXACTLY when the "S" mark on the flywheel is centered in the hole. DO NOT try to time your engine with a feeler gauge.

And yes, new points should to cleaned just to be sure they will fire.

As far as I am concerned..... This is the ONLY way to do it. No timing light needed..... no guessing. EXACTLY CORRECT!

Well fellers.........

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR GREAT ADVICE!!!

I went out today, more level headed, cooled off and less sleep deprived. Looked and looked. Thought and thought. Moved one wire on new switch (el-cheap-o universal) and BOOOOM!!! SPARK!!! I couldnt belive it. I was wiring the switch per letters on back and guess I didnt understand the markings or how the wiring on the Cub ran. My mistake caused me alot of frustration. And I went over everything 20x.

Now Im waiting for my motor mounts and got to get two more bolts for rear end and I will be in business. I hope. Pending on if I didnt loose any of the mounting hardware for the mule drive to deck.

Fuel tank, fuel filter and new fuel line installed. Gotta wait for dem motor mounts...eehehhe.

Once again....

THANK YOU EACH AND EVERY ONE OF YOU!!!!!!:Bowdown2::Bowdown2:

John

Glad to hear you got it figured out John!:beerchug:

Great news! :beerchug:

Good deal! :beerchug:

Excellent! glad you got it figured out!