125 motion question
 

Well it had to happen. I got the tiller on the 125 and the hytran and filter changed and took it out for a test run tonight.
The last few days I moved it around the yard without any trouble. I took it down to the woods to till a little tonight it worked great. Left the woods and came up to the house and took a scoot down the driveway and it made a clunk like grind sound that only lasted less than a second and stopped moving.
Put the control lever in the neutral position, and tried to figure out what the heck just happend. So I tried putting it in forward again and it moved a few inches and that was it:bigthink:
So Nancy came down the driveway with my chair and we got the Kubota with the loader and picked up the back of the 125 and got it back to the shop. I didn't check anything tonight, just looked on the floor for oil, nothing.
I got the tiller on so I can't raise it up till that comes off tomorrow. But I thought maybe someone could give me an idea of where to start looking for the trouble in the morning.
Never a dull moment, but it was working so good:bash2:figures!
Any help would be great.

Did you sheer a driveshaft pin? While you have the tunnel cover off, make sure pump input spins with motor. If everything is ok, guess you'll have to drop the tiller and pull the rear diff cover and check the ring and pinion.

No tunnel cover on a 125 but I have seen some with that PO mod.
I say its a rollpin also.

Of course your right Lew. I'm more of a '82 series up cub guy. Although I know the mechanics of the older machines, I always forget the styling and when they changed it. After joining and posting here I'm trying to forge it into the ol' memory banks :beerchug:

I wish you an EAZY FIX there Todd. Keep us posted!

I gotta agree with the other guys it sounds like a broken/sheared pin in the drive shaft or possibly a broken hub adapter.

Before going too far, I would pull the cover from the front of the drive shaft and see what's going on in there.

Good luck and keep us posted.

The only pin in the drive line is a 1/4" x 1 1/2" dowel in the front, correct?

Well, it's a spirol roll pin, and no, there is one at the hydro end also.

Sounds like a sheared pin Todd and let us know what you find out.

X2! Hope all is well, Todd!

Parts look up as follows.
19837- R2 Dowel Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 that is the front
915-0114 Coiled Spring Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 for the rear next to the pump.

Well, I stand corrected! The rear only uses the spirol pin! On the models newer, they are both the same. I did not realize the 125 used two different ones! :Sorry: I even double checked the parts blowout before that post just to be sure that it wasn't different..... I didn't check the part #'s just the pic.

So, it was a sheared pin? :bigthink: Which end?

Don't know what the heck is going on. Checked both the front and rear "pins" and they are fine. Pulled the fenders and put a vice grip on the driveshaft and tried turning the "output shaft" and it won't move, so it's still connected.
Jacked up the rear and spun the tires and they still move in opposite directions. The relief valves function normal, start the tractor and they pop up, shut off the tractor and it won't move until the relief valve lever is pushed down, so I don't know.:bash2:
That's as far as I've got today.

Ok, so I'm going to reiterate to make sure we are all on the same page. The pins are fine and intact. When you try to turn the shaft coming out the back side of the pump, it is tight with the driveshaft. When running, the buttons on the relief valves pop up.

SO, we can safely assume that the charge pump is making pressure, and that the hydro pump is turning.

Now, you say that when you jack up the rear, that you can turn one wheel, and the other turns opposite. So, it's safe to assume that the spider gears in the diff a intact.

What happens when you try to turn the wheels the same direction at the same time with it jacked up? You also say it won't "free wheel" until the buttons on the relief valves are depressed......

Is this all correct?

If so, I would say that the next thing I would do is try running it with it jacked up and see if the wheels try to turn. Also, when trying to move it running using the hydro, does it whine like it is trying to move? Or does it just sit quietly?

I am starting to lean towards either a shattered reduction gear, or a shattered drive motor in the pump. It may be a good idea to drain the rear and see if there is any metal in the oil...... At this point, I would say it gets expensive from here. Sorry, I know that I said a lot, let us know what you find!

OK Jonathan,
You are correct on what's been tried so far. I was told to try and turn the wheels the same direction, but I can't do it in the chair, so I'll have to wait to get some help to try that next. Don't feel like falling out:biggrin2:
Also there is NO whine "it sits quietly" while moving the lever, but I didn't try with it jacked up.
I'll see if the wife can help me move the wheels in the same direction before she heads to work in the morning. Then I'll try and see if anything moves with it off the ground and report back.
Thank you much for the ideas.:beerchug:

Alright, here's where I'm at on the no-motion 125.
Tried moving both wheels in the same direction by hand, yes they do.
Checked the drive shaft pins again just to be sure I didn't miss anything, both front and rear are good.
So I tried something else today. I have all four corners off the ground where I can see the relief valves. Pushed them down with the lever and started the tractor, they came up about half of full, (when I couldn't see them before they seemed they were coming up all the way. tried the control lever, no wheel motion. Shut off the tractor and took a scraper and reached in and pushed them up all the way.
Started the tractor and moved the control lever forward, and the left wheel made a few rotations, well actually spun pretty normal, then just stopped.
Went through the same thing over again, but this time I had very little movement in the wheel.
So....now what?

Change the filter.
cheaper and easier than total disassemble.

Lew, normally I would agree, but Zippy said it was working fine, then made a nasty noise when it quit. Wouldn't have done that if the filter was just plugged.

Ok. I'm going to give you a couple choices.

1.) Hook a gauge up to the hydro, as per the manual, and test the charge pump pressure. (If you need help on how to do that, let me know.) Just as a "for sure" measure to confirm what I think happened. I'm only suggesting this because the next step is much more involved.

2.) If you choose not to check pressure: First pull the rear cover and see if the ring and/ pinion has failed. Whether it has or hasn't your going to have to pull the rear at this point. Pulling the cover first allows you to keep the tractor mobile until it can be fixed. If it's sitting in a good spot you can pull the rear first then the cover if you want.
If the ring and pinion check out, remove the hydrostat unit from the transaxle. Then you will be able to check the final drive and see if the problem is there. You will be looking for a chipped gear, or broken shaft. It should be obvious.
If you find nothing then it is probably the motor inside of the pump, and I would recommend finding another hydro at that point.

I am hoping that you find a chipped gear, but at this point it could be anything I mentioned.... It's not good my friend.

When you start the engine can you see the driveshaft spinning? If the answer is yes, the front pin is fine. Did you check the hydro linkage to see if something came apart?

Got a chance to work on the 125 today.
Got the HyTran drained out and raised the tractor up to drain the filter so I could start getting things apart, and find the problem.
After I figured the filter had been drained I began to loosen it and the HyTran began to flow out onto the floor:bigthink:I thought what the heck, it should be empty.
Long story short, I think I found the trouble. Somebody left behind some paper toweling after they cleaned out the inside of the diff.:bash2:wonder who that could of been?
Anyway, after getting the filter off I found a pretty good amount of paper towel I left behind. It was plugged in there pretty tight. So I'm thinking at this point this was my trouble. Still don't know what I heard when it stopped on me, but I'll pick up another filter and try it.
Hopefully it's all good, and I can chalk it up to a lesson on what not to do:biggrin2:
At this point, thanks to everyone for their ideas, but it may not be fixed yet.

Looks like you got away cheap as long as it didn't cook the charge pump.

X2!
Hopefully it will be fine Todd!:bigthink:

at least it wasn't a piece of cheese...

Hopefully, all will be well, Todd.

Glad you found it Todd! I admit, that particular solution came out of left field! Who would have thought, a rag! :biggrin2:

BTW. The floor of your shop is IMMACULATELY clean.

:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Let's hope it's all good.

Thanks again Jonathan for the phone chat, and advice :beerchug:

It's alive
 

Got the 125 all back together today, and it works:beer2:
Thanks to you all for your ideas. Glad it ended up being something stupid, and not something major.

Glad to hear Todd!! Your welcome! Glad you went ahead and pulled the filter before taking out the rear! :bash2: I never saw that one coming. Guess it's like we always say here...... K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) Enjoyed chatting with you. Call anytime! Pretty cool coming together to help each other out! :beerchug:

Great news Todd!:beer2:

:clap: :High5: Awesome! I'm glad when a seemingly large issue turns out to be something minor.

That's awesome news, Todd! :beerchug: