Drive Shaft Conversion
 

Made up a drive shaft for FrankF3 for his 1572 from a 2000 series drive shaft. Pics of it installed. Frank is doing the testing. He should be able to give it a good workout with his tiller. If it works as well as I think it will it makes a nice replacement for the rag joints.

Are these better than the cyclops series CV joints? I have an 1863/4 driveline waiting for a rainy day to go into my 1572.

As soon as I get that driveshaft to you I guess you can have an answer tot hat question!!! dooooh...... been busy man!!

I think less to go wrong with them. They don't need to be greased. Never seen one fail. Not sure if the 1863 shaft will fit as it is but I plan on taking a look to find out.

That's some nice work, Sam!

The rumour is that the 1863 shaft with a 1782/2182 engine adapter and a cyclops super pump adapter, becomes a bolt in assembly. The pump input shaft needs to be tapped, but everything else is ready to go.

I have a 1772 sitting in my shop that I can use to see if this will play. I have the crank adapter and a pump adapter. When you get a second see if you can get me an overall length of the shaft with the CV joints on it compressed to it's shortest length. As near as I can tell the space between the flanges of the adapters is 20.625"

What Sam has worked up for this replacement shaft should make for a trouble-free design. Once all this rain stops, I plan to hook up some of my rear PTO implements to see how it handles the load. I don't expect any problems, I don't dare to try and drag the 48" tiller into the garden for a while lest the stack will be the only thing left showing. I think it's time to take out the bushhog. :biggrin2:

The hardest part of the shaft install was getting the pump shaft drilled and tapped. I found that the shaft varied in hardness where the cobalt drill started out going right along into the shaft, then the next minute the progress virtually stopped. I had to dig out the carbide drill bits. After a short time, it started drilling easy again. I was lucky enough to order a pump adapter, bolt and belville washer from my cub dealer. I measured how far the bolt protruded through the pump adapter, subtracted the thickness of the belville washer to get the reach of the bolt when installed, then added to the depth of the drilled hole in the pump shaft by the amount of taper on the 1/4-20 tap to make sure the hole was threaded deep enough to accept the bolt. Although I could have tried to use a bottoming tap to skip the last step.

im going to be drilling and taping my pump soon for Sam's drive shaft. i see its a 1/4 20 bolt size. what length bolt did you use?

Guys
Just so you know I’m not trying to become a drive shaft supplier. My goal is to offer a viable solution to the rag joint issues that the older Cubs have. I like both the CV style that the Cyclops have and the 2000 series shafts. Problem with the CV type is they are made to fit specific engine setups if you can find one that works with your power train then it is a good choice. The 2000 series stuff is also designed to be length specific but they can be re-worked without too much trouble. That said I can supply the adapters for the pump that are NLA from Cub and I can also supply the adapter for the Kubota that is also NLA from Cub. I’ll do a how to make your own drive shaft from a 2000 series so that you guys can make your own. It’s not a big deal to do but it requires some work in a lathe and some welding. I have both of these done locally by a good machine shop and a good welder. I’m only trying to help you guys keep the “Oldies But Goodies” running, this is not a for profit venture. If you doubt that ask Frank if I have charged him for the shaft yet and he will tell you that I want him to run it and run it hard to test it first, only after we know it works would I expect him to pay for it and then only what it has cost me. Frank just want to say thanks for being the test pilot on this mission. I normally prefer to do the test work on my own but in this case I just didn’t have a tractor to do it with. Ken I have one all cut and ready to be welded but until Frank runs the crap out of his I am going to wait.

Ken6x6, I used a Cub Cadet # 710-3220 from my dealer. It is a 1/4-20 x 1.0 GR5 bolt with lock-tite patch already pre-applied. You could get by with the same size bolt from the hardware store and apply your own lock-tite. I also used the belleville washer that Cub Cadet specs out - 736-0270, .265 x .75 x .062 thk.

I measure 20" even from end to end fully compressed.

ok thanks frank, im waiting for you to beat the crap out of this drive shaft so i can get mine.

1772 & 1572 drive shafts
 

Ok guys BIG thanks to Leadslingingdaddy he sent me a drive shaft from an 1863 it looks like it will work as a replacement for the drive shaft in the 1572 & 1772 as long as you have the Cyclops engine and pump adapters but both are NLA from Cub. I can have them made for you or can see if you can get them from the guys that part out Cubs. The 1863 shaft is 20.375” long fully compressed and the flange to flange measurement on the 1772 is 20.625” it may need a 1/8” spacer but I don’t think so. I need to check to see if the splines are fully engaged at 20.625”. Pics tomorrow.

hhc70

Looks like you are good to go as long as you have the adapter for the Kubota and the pump. Pics are the adapters my machine shop makes for me.

Sam, i was driving out to see my grandmother in PA yesterday and on my way i saw a 105 for sale, i stopped and checked it out and the guy came out and we got to talking cubs. he walked me around back and showed me a pile of cub parts he was also selling. i saw a nice iron rear setting there and a few words and a hand shake later i was loading up that iron rear in my truck. im going to see if i cant get this thing under my 1772. im going to swap all the gears over too. lets hope your drive shaft works with iron and diesel.

Ken

You may want to take the time to read this thread, looks like the cast rear has a clearance issue with the fuel tank.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=23475&page=4

Drive shaft should be no problem iron or alum.

hhc70

I got a chance to check out that 1863 shaft today. You will need a 1/4" spacer to make it work. If you put it in as it is the splines will not fully engage the ball in the center of the CV joint.

I think I can handle that. If I didn't have the engine adapter, I guess I would make one 1/4" longer.

i have read about the fuel tank issues. seems like its just the valve that gets in the way. ill make something work.

Well, I dug out the 42" rear PTO Bush Hog. There were no problems at all the drive shaft held up fine with no issues. I was originally going to dig out the rear PTO tiller, but that thing is buried so deep in the shed it would take me hours to get to it. I figure that if the mower works fine, there should be no problem with the tiller. GOOD JOB SAM! :beerchug:

Built up a drive shaft for a 1772 today from a 2000 series. Just thought I’d show you guys how to do one.
First step is to stick the shaft in a lathe and cut the weld off the flange on one end. Then measure the distance from the engine bolt flange or drive cup to the pump adapter. Next you cut the remaining tube 3/8” shorter than the measurement you just took. Then you put the cut of flange from the shaft back on the shortened tube and re weld it. Assembeled length should be 1/8” shorter than the space between the drive cup and pump adapter to allow for some movement. I use grease to hold the plastic drive barrels in place during assembly. Then you simply bolt the whole thing back together.

Looks great Sam. I'm sure the new owner will be happy.:beerchug:

If at some point the blue plastic drive barrels need replacing this is the part number from the Cub site.

759-3764
KIT, DRIVE BARRELS
Price $12.64

This is enough to do one end so you would need 2 for the whole shaft. So far even on some 900 plus hour tractor I have not seen any that needed replacing.

X2!:beerchug:

Nice job, Sam!

This is a conversion I've been looking for. Is it possible to move this into the technical section and add some more detail like part numbers of the components, more detailed dimensions of the shaft and which 2000 series model drive shafts work better than others if applicable. I also wanted to say nice work and innovation on the shaft.

chevy

Let me know what your trying to do and I'll try to help. Not sure it's worth putting in the tech section. I start with a used 2000 or 3000 shaft and cut it to fit weld it up and rock and roll. All depends on the tractor in question.

I have a 1572 that has a well worn driveshaft and disconnect clutch setup and I've been looking for something to replace that setup. Right now the tractor is all apart undergoing a much needed restoration so it will be a while before I can get the rear and engine back into the chassis. That's why I was curious about the engine and pump adaptors as well as what shaft and fan you used. Even though the tractor is a bit of a basket case I think it's well worth keeping vs buying a new one.

No problem doing a 1572. I can make the adapters for the pump and the engine, the shaft is a simple deal. You will need to drill and tap the pump input shaft for the newer style pump drive adapter.

How much to make a set for my 2072? Although I may do a Command repower so I may only need the rear one.:biggrin2:

For a 2072 $175.00 shaft and pump adapter. Same price if you decide to put a Command in it. They are different length.

Sam what do u get for a set of adaptors for my 1572?

are those shafts the same as a 1862? lookin at gettin the whole tractor to pirate the power steering and driveshaft to update a 782D. saw one done on youtube and he used the hydro unit also because its splined

For a 1572, $275 for both adapters and the shaft.

Thanks Sam! I should have been more clear, how much to just make the adapters? I have a lathe at work and a couple good welders next door. I could probably make the adapters too, but with the time it would take measuring everything that I have yet to take apart, it would probably be cheaper to have your guy make them.

If I do a Command repower would a shaft from a 2084/2284 be the right length? Then all I would have to do is drill/tap the pump shaft:biggrin2:

It is going to be some time until I tear into the 2072. I just want to get a ball park on what I will have in it. I have a pretty hefty order to place with Xtreme.
:beerchug:

If you are going to do the shaft yourself, for a 2072 all you would need is the pump adapter, $100. If you do a command repower the 2084/2284 shaft should fit but you still need a pump adapter.

How much for a 782d? I hate the old rag joints!

$275.00. You would need both adapters and the shaft.

Guys if any more of you want prices on this PM me. This is not the for sale section or the parts section. I'm not trying to be the go to drive shaft guy. That's why I tried to show you how to do it yourself. :beerchug:

im all about building this myself but have been waiting for an exact model number so I can look up the parts for the conversion on my 1512. the front rag joint is wobbling about 3/8" out of true. I figured i would make it myself but 200 series doesn't narrow it down enough.
part numbers would be even better but a model number would work too.