My 1650 refresh
 

How did I go from this to this? Well somehow my engine ran low on oil and I snapped the rod. So naturally I'm going to rebuild the engine. I pull the engine no problem. I got into it and I need a valve job too and a total engine refresh. All new Kohler parts ordered. The steering was a little loose so the steering column gets pulled and stripped down. The tie rods are loose so they come off, there is play in the front axle, so I'm going to install a bolt as seen in another thread. There is no cradle mod done so flat bar bought. Hour gauge does not work, so that gets yanked, and a new Datcon gauge ordered. Starter makes all kinds of noise so that has to be changed out. The front wheel bearings were going so there pulled. The PTO bearing was real rough so the PTO is all apart. The PO did some painting with CC rattle can and has some runs so I'm pretty much going to repaint the whole front clip. So Cub Cadet Specialties, Kirk Engines, and International Cub Cadet Warehouse have got a lot of my money lately along with Ebay and local shops. I thought my 1650 was in pretty good shape but it amazes me what all I cant let go while I have it all apart. My wife told me today she thinks it will never run again......

Sorry to hear that but when you are done it will be good as new!:beer2:

Just stay after it and you'll have a fine machine. I want to go over a 1650 too. That is a nice model you have. Keep us updated with the pics.

You'll have a great machine, once it's done.

I am laughing in recognition of your situation. Hopefully you don't have an itch to customize your cub

Sorry for the breakdown, but now you know it'll be done the right way, less chance of problems in the future.

Money and time WELL spent.

:beerchug:

i couldnt agree more with ya. i bought it to work in the yard. i started looking for a garden tractor that i could run ground engaging implements with. well that was hard to find a new one one that was actually rated to do dirt moving. the best i could find in my price range was a husqvarna at $3000. so anyway it was a good mail day.

got my piston, rings, rod, gasket set, condenser (came with the kit will not be needed) points, stellite valves, rod ends, point saver, fuel bowl, hood strip (dont know if ill use it) side panel things (undecided about using those) battery mat, and steering upgrade.

i need to get the piston and rod to the machine shop to get my parts machined to them. when i get it back i will mic the valve guides to see where they stand. im pretty sure the exhaust will need to be changed out. then back to the shop to get the seats recut.

one of my grease zerks was not taking grease in my front axel. while cleaning it up come to find out one of the sleeves was stuck in place and no place for
grease to flow. still have to drive that one out and see whats up. here are some pics of todays mail haul

Looks like you spent some money with David Kirk also. Nothing like one stop shopping !!

It sounds like you know what you are doing to the engine , did you check the bore/crank for wear before you got the rod/piston ??

Yeah David got some of my cash. I can't wait to use the ball joints. They are super smooth and have a longer thread engagement which is good for me. I only had about 5 threads into my old ones which I didn't feel was much. The kohler parts I got off eBay. The kit without the valves was $275. I found that to be a pretty good price for kohler parts. I actually have no clue what I'm doing with the engine but I'm a machinist so I think I can handle it. I have the factory manual and the Internet. The engine had not been bored but had some nicks from the rod letting loose. .020 will clean it all up. The crank had a lot of aluminum galling but will clean up at .010 under. Ill try to get some lathe time in tonight to make a punch to knock out the spindle sleeve. Also have to turn down the steering column stud thing for the worm gear. Need to make a main bearing instillation tool too.

Eta I need to get my sandblaster together so I can do some parts up. I think I'm going to mount some casters on it so I can roll it out easy to use. The cub has to share parking space with my wife's Lexus and space is a premium.

...gotta check that oil each and every time you go to start it. The rebuild is looking good.

X2! :beerchug:

So I need a new starter too. Is there any real difference in the eBay starters? I see em range from $54 to $150. I would almost guess there all from the same foreign manufacturer and distributed by different people. Is there a favorite seller that our community uses? I don't need a factory kohler on this one.

are these clips on the pto original? the pto wire ran down through them to the connector. the reason i ask is they are different and one had a washer on it and one didnt. i did not see them anywhere on the breakdowns on parts tree. from what i gather they are called J clips. i cant find any new ones for sale though. anyone have another stock pic of the area?

My tractors have just one of those clips on it , i don't think any have had two , at least not that i can remember. Keeping the wire away from the spinning clutch is a good thing !! I don't see why you couldn't use any retaining clip , unless you are going for originality.

I haven't had to replace a starter on a K series Kohler yet , but i did replace one on my Magnum in my 1872 and i just shopped for the cheapest starter.
Not sure if the Kseries starters are rebuildable ??

I guess they are rebuildable , this site has parts. This is where i bought my starter and i get my other parts from here also ...

http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_starter_motors.htm

im not going for a restoration per say. im fine with switching things up a little bit as long as it looks good. i think i will loose points at a tractor convention with the bosch blue coil. i do like the open clip type thing since i can get my wire out of it without taking the whole PTO apart. dont really know why i would have to take the wire out though. anyway, which clip is the stock location, top or bottom. i figured something was different since the clips were not the same and one had a washer and one not.

should be doing the cradle mod tonight. i have pretty much been doing degreasing and cleaning on parts to go into my sandblast cabinet. still have to put that thing together too. i dont want to get all that nasty grease in my glass beads.

well its about time i show a pic of some progress. nothing revolutionary but i did get the engine cradle welded up tonight. not my best beads but .25 steel is the max on my miller 175. got some more parts in today. with the cradle fixed i can install it and my front end and take measurements for the bolt mod to replace the axle pin. that should tighten up my axel well and in turn my steering as a whole. i did go with a longer bolt than the tutorial showed so i dont have any threads on the bearing surfaces. as you can see i got a little degree wheel too. im sure i really didnt need to but it was $15 and i have never played with one and wanted to. on the tail light it had oval ones that can be seen from the PO's paint job. they bolted to the inside set of holes where the original light base did. are the outside set of holes standard? i can see part of those holes when the base is installed. i think i saw a picture of another guys and saw some of the holes showing like mine. i dont know why they would be there but they are perfectly in line with the other ones.

Replacing the pin in the front axle with the bolt is a good upgrade. Not sure what tutorial you are reading on how to do that , but you do have to cut some of the bolt head off in order for it to clear the oil pan.

Make sure the channel that the axle sits in isn't to wide all the way across and when you install the axle tighten your bolt down really good . Don't worry if it is to tight , it will loosen the first time you drive it around the yard.

I haven't messed with any of my tractors tailights in awhile , so not sure , but it does look like there is more holes than there is supposed to be ???

Thanks for taking the time taking pics and explaining what you are doing !!

the one by R Christensen located herehttp://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=18991

i have used the site for all things for my cub. taking a couple pictures is the least i can do.

well made a punch out of some 4340 to beat the spindle sleeve out. as you see it took some beating. had to use a propane torch to get it to move past 3/4 inch out. there wound up being a couple patch of rust in there. the sleeves are different though. one has a hole in it and one does not. i dont know why there would be a grease hole as the sleeve locks on the bolt and rotates as an assembly in the axle correct? i still need to clean the bore on the axle so the sleeve will slide in and out. so i have seen many fenders with the 2nd set of holes. looks like it is for the reflector only mounting.

No, the sleeve should fit tight, and the bolt turn in the sleeve. Otherwise, your cast axle would wear out.... then, what would be the point of the sleeve? :Huh:

the sleeves are both longer than the axle spindle mounts. the spindle measures at 4.000 and the sleeves are 4.015 and 4.020. i cleanded the crudd out of the axle where the stuck sleeve was and that sleeve is a slip fit too. according to my manual it shows the spindle bolt to be torqued to 80 ft lbs. if the sleeve was a press fit and the bolt torqued to 80 ft lbs it would lock up the spindle on the axle. i would think the sleeves are longer than the axle so the spindle can be locked onto the sleeve and the whole assembley rotate inside the axle tube. the grease zerks should keep the axle from wearing out with proper lube. there are two notchs cast into the bottom of the axle that looks like greese should flow from through the axle and lubricate the bottom of the spindle where the weight is bearing dowm. these are only assumptions. dont know why one sleeve would have a small hole in it and one not. the PO did have some threaded zerks in it. i think the original ones were press fit. it doesnt look like they are a full 1/4-28 like i have seen on others. they only would go in like 1-2 threads. i need to clean them up and re-tap em. i dont know much though cause this is the only IH CC i have ever seen. people in the neighborhood are always asking me about it. there hard to find in my part of the woods.

Well, if that is what the manual says, then I stand corrected. That I am aware of, IH didn't keep that particular design long. I didn't see the sleeve listed in any other models. Sounds like you're on the right track!

well i figured i would work on the steering column since i have all the parts for it. my cam follower stud was in pretty bad shape. i think i found an unworn part on it and measured it at 15 degrees, so i turned the stud down to that. i still need to take some more off of the face cause it hits the bottom of the worm gear, and the sides do not make contact. what is the factory angle of the stud. when i was running the stud down the worm gear by hand the angle of the gear did not seem to always match the stud. here is what i turned down. prolly still need about .075 off the face. im also putting in the wheel bearing up top to help with steering. it is quite loose. the bearing OD is 1.375 and the ID of the column is 1.420 average. it will be quite a thin wall of aluminum. the column is prepped and masked off for in the morning when i have the garage empty.

well i have got a little progress done. i got my harbor freight blaster up and running. the light lasted all of about 3 hours and it is inop now. other than that it works pretty good. im using glass beads but i think i need to switch to something more aggressive. i got the cradle and the column painted up. the motor has been bored. the valve guides mic good so it back off to the machine shop to get the valve seats redone. i need to get it back together so i can till up the yard to prepare for sod. the wife told me today its not a show pony and i need to get it back to working.

Paint looks great!:beerchug:

Looks very nice !!! Glad to see another Cub saved !! :beerchug:

Looking good! :beerchug:

well the block is back at the machine shop to get the valve seats ground. i got the front axle parts painted up. i got the dash tin preped for paint. well its actually drying now. still have to get some time on the lathe to do some parts up.

This looking too nice to use.:beerchug:

X2! :beerchug:

thanks for the kind words. maybe the wife is right and im trying to make it into a show pony. i just like making things look good while it is all apart. im for sure into making teh mechanical 100% before looks, a good lookin tractor that dont work doesnt help me much. i guess thats what my wife is getting at :bigthink: i have fixed most of the mechanical already, or am in the process of it.

so i have been doing alot of blasting and painting of the engine parts. it seems the more i blast the more i find cracked. non of these i noticed when they were painted. so the engine tins were a pretty quick fix. i tig welded them up and still have a little blending to do on them. the exhaust shroud mount has what seems to be a pretty common problem, the boss is cracked where the sharpie mark is at. the top right hole for the muffler shroud is cracked also as shown with sharpie. i think that hole will be ok as is. the boss hole threads are real loose with a bolt. a self locking heli-coil should fix that. my question is would a muffler crutch work without doing any welding of the crack? is this part actually cast aluminum or is it a pot metal part? ive tig welded cast before but it was not that great of a project ever. some parts just melted and never would fuse right. i dont have any cast rod, just 4043 or 5052. im thinking with a good muffler crutch it should hold without any welded. i wont be out anything if it does not tig though, just some melted aluminum to clean off, as long as i dont blow holes in it. the muffler was loose when i took the engine apart. the dash tin is in the works. i have a few spots around the radiuses that i need to touch up. i got my maple hunter decals in to finish it off.

Nice job!:beer2:

I have always wondered what the shroud was made of myself , i figured it was aluminum , but not sure.

Along with the muffler crutch , maybe you could try some liquid metal. It probably wouldn't hurt . Rough it up with some sandpaper and smooth it out. Maybe V the crack slightly and work some in ???

I brought home a QL that someone did this to , and looking at it from the surface it looks like it works.

Your parts look nice!

If your going to try welding the muffler shroud, I would use the 4043. The main alloy element is silicon which is the more common alloying element in castings. Also, it is more ductile than the 5052 and have less chance for hot cracking post weld. Clean it real well and preheat the whole part first.
Good luck and great work!
Bill