Little help with the 982?
 

I did a little work on the 982 I got the Wed before Thanksgiving. Cleaned up the hydro pump, repaired the neutral safety switch that was bypassed and broken, and snugged up the bolts on the left side axle tube which was leaking. Everything on the top side is clean and dry and the leak seems to be coming from the left axle tube. After I snugged up the bolts everything was dry for a week or so, but when I fired her up to test the NSS, there was hydro fluid on the rear the next day. So, before I remove the rear end, does anyone have any suggestions? Do the bolt holes go thru the housing, or are they not exposed to the hyrdo fluid? Any help would be appreciated. I want to change the fluids, but am not going to replace the Hy(cost)tran if it's going to be on the floor. As always, thanks!

Just got in from the shop. Just in case anyone else runs into this problem, I removed the 8 bolts that hold the hydro and rear end to the frame and carefully lowered the rear end to get access to remove the axle tube. Once I did, I found the bolt broken off flush with the CI housing. I tried drilling and using an EZ out, but it would have taken a trip to the store for a better bit or a few days of drilling. Anyway, the hole I started was off center, so I took a punch to see if I could get it to turn. Low and behold it did. Got a few revolutions and then used a cold chisel to turn it the rest of the way out. Not too bad. What was actually happening was that when the short bolt was tightened it was actually opening a gap between the axle tube and the rear end since it was pressing against the broken stud. Took a closer look at the other side, and have a similar problem with one of the frame bolts there also. So a trip to my local dealer is in order to see if he has a few gaskets for me. Not as bad as it could have been, and hopefully not only will it quit leaking, but be fixed right. :beerchug:

It looked pretty good inside, but there were some areas in the rear that had some thick coagulated hytran. I've read about cleaning out the rear with kerosene or brake kleen, any opinions on which is better? While I'm in there, I may as well clean it up.

glad to hear you're getting it taken care of. Where's the pics?

Thanks for the info Wild Bill! The 'sludge' in mine is kind of a clear/yellowish jelly substance and most of it was on the sides, not at the bottom. Not a lot mind you, I scraped about 2 tablespoons, but there. Maybe the PO didn't use Hytran? Anyway, I'll manually clean, then brake kleen, then dry. I'm hoping my local dealer has the gaskets so I can get it back together Monday nite.

Well, the easy broken bolt is out. The one on the other side was not too compliant. The rear end is out and getting ready to be put on the bench. The bolt is broke flush, much like the other side, but won't spin with the chisel/punch. Picking up a cobalt bit at lunch to see if it will drill the bolt, and as an extra bonus, there is also a small piece broken off in the axle tube:bash2: The 'good' side also needs a new axle seal, so removing it was still necessary. Crazy, I had a nice, complete, running 982, two weeks ago, now I have hydro fluid all over my shop floor, and my 982 in pieces. Almost makes me want to just tear it down a bit further and get it ready to paint in the spring???? Oh, and my poor 70 that's been sitting in a million pieces since June. At least I got the steering column rebuilt and I did get a nice pressure pot sandblaster for Christmas, so I'll be able to get back at that soon!

Success and an update!
 

Me and toygirl were in the shop the past few hours. She was chasing the axle tube bolts while I was drilling the broken bolt for an EZ out. I'm happy to say, it worked great. Got the stud out of the housing, chased all the threads, and cleaned up the rear end. Then I turned my attention to the broken bolt in the right side axle tube. Used the EZ out again without a problem, but the hole still wasn't clear the entire way thru. PO put a helicoil in the axle tube for some reason? (Just in the lower third of the hole):bash2: The hole is a little egged at the top, but other than waiting for my gaskets and axle oil seals, I'll be good for reassembly after I get the rear end cleaned out well and then the shop. The Dewalt Cobalt bit made ez work of the broken bolts. My other bits hardly made a dent. Here's a few pics:

The tough bolt
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/006-5.jpg

Rear end out
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/011-1.jpg

Good money spent
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/013-1.jpg

Success!
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/016.jpg

A little egged
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/012-1.jpg

What a mess!
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/014.jpg

I will gladly bring my trailer and cart the messy looking red thing out for you...lol You're 1/2 way from total disassembly,might as well go the other 1/2.

OK gents, I wrestled the cast iron behemoth back into my 982. (no pics, sorry) I thought I lost a pinkie, but thankfully it wasn't as bad as I thought. The nice thing was it was numb, so I could finish what I was doing, but I dreaded getting in the house! Anyway, the rear end is back in and I got a box full of filters and gaskets. Need to install the axles, add a few washers and torque everything down. (And I still have all 10 digits, although one has some unusual coloring)

My question is, is there a 'bleeding' procedure once the hy-tran is installed?

Thanks, as always!

Not particularly. It wouldn't be a bad idea to rotate the driveshaft by hand for a bit to prime the pump. Any air bubbles in there will work their way out eventually.

Matt, leave the dip stick in/unit sealed or not? And....good idea to fill the filter with hy-tran?

Leave the dipstick in. There should be a breather in the rear, so it wouldn't make a difference. Filling the filter will save you some time and effort hand-priming the pump. When you first start the tractor, try the hydraulic lift out before moving the tractor. If the lift works, the pump is primed and you're all set.

Thanks for the input. Wow is it cold! An unheated garage and 5* temps keeps my tasks quick. My hands are still thawing out. Got the axles installed, the rear cover back on, and all the axle tube bolts torqued. We're supposed to have a warm spell about mid week. I'll fill the tranny and fire it up and see what shakes out then. :beerchug:

Toyman....Keep your info coming! I look forward to reading everything you have found/learned while working on your 982. I was fortunate to get one back in October and love it so far. But I am always looking to learn more about it just incase someday. I am having a few issues of mine surging a lot when idling and running a full throttle. I haven't done much with it yet due to cold weather and lack of time. I am going to start by getting rid of the gas I put in it and change the in line filter and clean the carb first. I figured if I ruled that stuff out first then I would work on the govenor if needed? I am thinking it can't be something too serious? All I know is when I unloaded it off the truck and fired it up...it purrred like a kitten - I never heard such a nice sounding engine. I have never been fortunate to have a 2 cylinder in a tractor so it was certainly a different sound to my ears! The PO certainly took care of this tractor and for that I am very lucky and grateful! I just wish I could track the bugger down....he has pretty much vanished since I bought it from him? I just had some questions about it that I was curous about. Heck I hope he doesn't think I am ticked with him over anything cause I know that I am FAR from being ticked....I am tickled pink about this tractor! Like I said before, even the wife is happy with it....as long as I can get rid of the surging problem.:bash2::BlahBlah:

Mountain Heritage - Will do with the updates!:beerchug: We need a lot of patience and a good ability to troubleshoot to keep these machines in good shape. Your original post on the 982 (700 pages?:biggrin2.gif:) was pretty timely for me and I enjoyed reading through it before I bought mine.

As much as I hate to admit it, when the PO fired up my 982, I really did enjoy the dual exhaust note. I definitely didn't need this tractor, but have a hard time passing up what I felt was a good deal and the only thing I regret about the purchase so far is that I didn't take the 782 sitting beside it also.:bash2:

Now, if I want to downsize and get rid of my workhorse (JD), I'll have to find a tiller and blower. That might double my investment and also take some time and travel, but for now I just have to get the rear end done and change all the fluids & filters and give the motor a good once over.

:beerchug:
Toyman....that thread I had started before was crazy! I even had to show the wife how many times it was viewed! It answered A LOT of my questions as well as posed a lot more - but I guess that's what they are intended for!? I learned things I never thought I would from this web site as well as others. The knowledge in these postings is just nuts!:Explode:I couldn't imagine looking up the information I have gained from others over the past few months. I am SO grateful for the offer to buy the 982 I have sitting in my garage now. I thought it would be like finding a needle in a hay stack when I started out searching. I would have to agree with you....that 782 would certainly look sweet sitting next to your 982 in your garage.... Don't! :bash2::bash2: Oh well, you will see once you get the 982 running you will be shoving that green machine out the door by spring and making room for another Cub REAL SOON! For sure keep me and everyone else up to speed on your re-assembly of the rear end and any other issues you run into. I know when I am fortunate to get back out there and work on mine I will be back to .... :BlahBlah::BlahBlah::BlahBlah: about it. I bet every one can't wait for me to :beatdeadhorse: after each garage session with my 982! :biggrin2.gif: Anyway, I know people will hate me for it, but they just need to click on another thread if they don't want to hear about it. So do you have any issues with your releif valves seeping oil? Mine are and I still need to replace them. Think I am going to go with the new ones from a dealer - expensive, but I don't know that I want to take the chance to buy used/refurbished ones on e-bay? I just wish I knew what kind of shape the interior of the engine was in....without having to take it appart. Like Aj had said before about the new style and old style of connecting rods....that kinda makes me nervous a little??? Last thing I need is to blow the side outta my block in high grass cutting time and not have a back up mower. I need to sell my old tractor in the spring. That was the one deal the wife said about me buying this one - as long as the other one was gone. Its nice to see she is looking out for the unnessecary space being used up in my garage!

Look forward to hearing more from your garage adventures!

:beer2:

MH - My relief valves are in good shape, and not seeping. I was really impressed how good the 'covered' areas of my tractor were when I opened her up. She had the normal buildup, but only a thin layer which cleaned up nicely. I also have my concerns about the Onan. They have two followings, the lovers and the haters:beer2: I was told by the PO that the PO before him replaced the original Onan with the one in it now. (The guy bought the 782 and 982 at an estate auction and then resold) The unusual thing about my 982 is that the hour meter is showing a lot of hours (well beyond an engines life span, even a d!):bigthink: So I feel pretty comfortable that the engine has been rebuilt or replaced as it doesn't smoke, even a little, at start up and runs strong. I knew (from your previous post) about the connecting rods, but from what I've read there's no real way to tell without opening her up. I've also considered that an Onan rebuild is about the same price as a Kohler or Honda repower, so it will be a pick'em when/if the time comes. The hour meter doesn't match the overall general condition of the tractor either, as the steering is good (for it's age), the wheels are in very good conditioni as is the hydraulic lift, drive shaft and corresponding connections and parts. So, what I know right now is that the rear end is now in great condition and once she's back together I'll change the engine oil/filter, clean her up and get some seat time. Oh, and from the other thread, she is resting nicely, with my the 3 other tractors, in a garage. :biggrin2.gif:

Is your onan a "p" series or "b". I think the p came with with better connecting rods.

According to my numbers it's a B48G - GA019 9/3707B. Which, I guess could be potentially bad news as far as the c-rods go:angry:,although I have read that they did change to the solid c-rods at some time in the B engines, but can't seem to find SN breaks or other info?

Where can I find the new style of rods and other goodies for my 982? I have looked at the sponsors, Onan and even Cub Cadet and have had no luck. I do have a local Onan dealer but didn't check there yet. Where have any of you purchased your parts and what kind of fundages will I need? I did purchase the Onan service manual and it looks like it was copied from a 1962 photocopier. My copy is very poorly made and was purchased from one of the top companies that you can purchase them from. Can you read your manual Mountain? Thanks guys.

Haven't ordered any parts yet, but I bookmarked this site for any future needs

http://www.onanparts.com/

Maybe someone else has first hand experience with them?

You can also try this site. http://www.m-and-d.com/Onan_parts.html

For the record, I bought all my parts on E-bay. I think it cost me around $215 for rods and piston rings.

AJ

Another update! I got out in the garage last nite and filled the tranny/rearend with hytran and a new filter. I read about burping and the problems of getting that thick, disgusting, smelly.......oops:biggrin2.gif: gear oil in. I left the top of the rear end off, you know the flat square piece that houses the dipstick? I poured the 7 quts of fluid in without issue, and filled the filter before I installed it. Then, since I basically tore into the rear end soon after I bought the tractor, I put a good battery in and crossed my fingers. No idea how old the gas is, but it took about 5 turns of the key to get it to catch, and then another 2 or 3 before she took. So I need to drain the old gas and read thru a few old posts from Mbounds (here and other sites) about some of the idiosyncracies he's found with the Onan engines and address them.

Mbounds - if you're reading I have one post printed out about 1/4" od tubing used as a vent from the carb, and I recall another about issue with gravity and the fuel pump?

So, with her running, I worked the hyd lift, which was initially pretty loud, and then I worked the tranny to purge the system (thanks Matt G). Everything quieted down, and didn't see much fluid on the wrong side of the tranny case. I'm a little disappointed that the (new) right axle seal may be leaking a very little bit, but I'll keep an eye on it. This is really just a flushing, so I'll change the oil, fix the front tire that doesn't want to hold air, replace the plugs and give the engine a good once over, then run it around for a few hours and change the fluid & filter again. If I have any leaks at that time, I guess I'll have to address them then! I do know that the axle tubes aren't leaking and I'm confident that all the bolts are proper and installed correctly. Thanks to all for the help, and I'll keep you posted if any other issues come up!

Got some good garage time today. The rearend, brakes, wheels, seat, and sheetmetal are back on. No leaks in the rear end, so it seems all that work was a success. So I took off the aircleaner housing to clean everything up and take a look at any potential fuel line issues. They have been recently replaced and have clamps. I lubed all linkages and drained the old gas. Put a couple gallons in with some seafoam. Then I cleaned the top of the engine and all the pieces of the air cleaner housing. I pulled the point cover off to take a look, and they look good, but were set pretty tight. I adjusted to .016, put all the clean sheetmetal back on and turned the key. It fired up on the first try. I'm hoping that a fresh set of plugs will help smooth out the engine a bit more. So all in all a very productive couple of hours in the garage. I even got to drive her around a little, and she felt smooth and powerful. And the best news, I pulled the fuse from the ignition side and put it in the light fuse holder. The lights all work! That's the bonus for the day.:beerchug:

Glad to hear your 982 is coming right along! It was worth the money to buy it now wasn't it? Hope to keep reading about more things you have learned while fixing it up - It will definately be a learning experience for me!

Oak, my manual is VERY clear. It was an original print copy. I can try sending that file to your e-mail again if you want? Fire me off an e-mail that I can try sending it to. I know it is a very large file. Its about 80 pages or so.