Cco #44578
 

Getting the O painted. I'm not going to go too fast with it unless my schedule permits. Here's the state it's in now. There's a hole in the deck and broken bolts in the shifter plate.

Looking forward to your updates!

Lookin forward to all the pics. And ya know those lights would look much better on mine. Lol

You have a good start,hope to see more.Can't wait to dig into one of mine!

Please keep us updated on your progress with your O. :beerchug:

The grille is in the tank. The grille screen, rear grote light, and front pulleys that would normally be on a mule drive are in primer tonight. I put the bailer from the oil bath filter to the wire wheel in the bench grinder. Just as I finished it evaporated. It was there then it wasn't. If it don't turn up I should be able to bend one into shape. There are a few parts lined up for the tank also so at least some progress was made today.

These three bolt heads are gone in the plate that holds the shifter. I'll try an easy out first. If that don't work, do the holes go all the way through in case I need to tap them? If the others snap, will they go all the way through?

The remaining bolts came out easy enough. Since the one was broke I was concerned about the rest. There was a washer laying on the gasket when it was closed up last. That might be why a PO broke the head off and there was water in the case.

I still can't tell if there is a reason I can't drill clear through or deeper and re-tap it. Hopefully it don't come to that. I've never looked inside here before and don't know what I'm looking at. It seems rather dirty in there and some water still is still there but it looks alright to me. Does anyone know if it looks alright? Is there anything needing serviced while I'm in there? How should I clean it?

I got several more parts ran through the tank and in primer. It's going faster than I expected. I haven't done anything with the engine yet though. It surprised me to find the lights were not painted on the top inside - like they dipped them and they didn't go all the way down or caught a bubble.

The sheared bolts came out. Before I pull the engine I'll stick a new coil and battery on and see if it still will start. I got this tractor well over a year ago and didn't do anything other than get it running and moving just to see if it could. It has sat outside under a tarp for the most part.

Good work! Sorry to hear that the rear end has water in it, but if the top plate had a washer between the case and the gasket, then I can see why. Water in the rear is not unusual, as you know. Time to open it up and drain the fluid out and put in new.

I am really interested in seeing your progress!

She fired right up on starting fluid. I may have done the carb already but I'll do it again anyway since it sat so long so I didn't bother with gas. As I recall the points were replaced (or just reset) and I decarboned it already. I believe I shaved the head also. I'll have to open it up to check I guess.
I've been soaking the steering wheel the last few days. I'll need to give that a try soon. It steers alright but it's time it was serviced from what I've seen with some of yours. I'll remove the tower but I don't want to split it if I can avoid it. I don't know of any reason to split it. Is there something I should service that requires me splitting it?
When I have the back end open and the shifter off, can I use a power washer to get it glean in there? Should I use kerosine? The rust particles are my concern. Maybe I should run it with some cheap hydro fluid a couple times to flush it? I won't miss the fluid. I've never done more than change the fluids in there and could really use some advice.

Wow Curtis when you start nothing stops you. We bought a 2072 that the rear hydro fluid was like light chocolate milk. We are planning on putting some cheap hydro fluid in and run a bit and change again just to get as much of that watered down fluid out as possible. After turkey season is over I may come over to see you.

Chocolate milk? I wonder if they used HyTran.
I have a couple gallons of cheap fluid. I think I'll run it through a couple times or more unless someone chimes in with a better solution. I suppose I should get it going with gas so I can flush it out before painting. I'll be spraying it with an air paint sprayer this time using Majic paint, reducer and hardener.

It will be nice to see you again. Actually, I hope Eric isn't to busy to weld a couple things for me so I may get out there first. I shot him a PM last night. I need that seat and deck welded on this O and a jack welded to my trailer tongue.

It ran on gasoline. Took a little cranking but not to much. No choke got it running so I doubt I put a kit in last time around. I'll not get anything done to it from tomorrow afternoon till at least Monday.

I cleaned the rear as best I could. I still hadn't recycled the HyTran from my last change, which wasn't too bad, so I used it to flush out the rear end. I think it was rust from the shifter plate that fell during the power wash. The pics looked worse than it really was. I'm content with calling it clean now.

After tightening the drive belt it climbed a steep hill in third. It didn't seem to have the speed on level ground though. I'm used to the 1650 which tops at 8 mph and the 72 which tops at 6.8 mph. The 72 was rebuilt by a PO to be a puller. I don't know if anything concerning speed was messed with. The O is supposed to be 6.9 mph so we'll have to see how that plays out. It wasn't full of fluid for the flush and little "test" drive but it was close enough I thought. It also rolls easy enough so it's not that the wheels need greased. I don't think the clutch slipped since it climbed that hill. I'm hopeful it's just carbon. I don't believe I decarboned this engine as I had thought. I'm anxious to open it up to see it's condition.

The clutch did not fully release unless it was already in a gear. That needs adjusted.

I want to relocate the coil. This mount isn't right but I would feel better with it on the tower.

Still wondering if I should split the tractor. Splitting it sounded daunting but what I read on it didn't seem bad but I've never split one before. Unless there is a speed issue to address there I don't see any reason to.

Pulling the engine and steering wheel will be next when it's done draining.

Pic 1 is the deck. Pic 2 & 3 are the seat. 4 shows the coil mount.

Some debris was found in the fins. No surprise there. The head gasket looked to have melted. Carbon was fairly thick where it was but I've seen much worse. The piston was stamped 30 over already. I didn't measure the bore and don't know if I still have a tool to do so. The pics of the bore portray it well. Now the head :eek: It has a crack - but it does not extend into where the gasket is yet so I think I'll still use it for now. I think I'll check the gap and reseat the valves. Give it a new head gasket and points (if needed) and run it as it is. I didn't get to try the steering wheel yet.

I have an engine out of a 149. Condition is unknown. Thinking I may look into repowering it with that.

I almost forgot. The bolt holding the governor was loose and literally let the throttle cable come off in my hand as soon as I touched it to disconnect it. I'm hopeful that is my ground speed issue. Not that it was extremely slow. I've never messed with governor either. It's time I learn.

Great to see these ol' girls still coming around!

That 14hp (out of the 149) should fit in there, but you might have some issues with the gas tank. Mine has a 10-horse Kohler in it and I needed to modify the mount on mine to put it more between the engine blower housing and the battery. I also installed a smaller battery, but not sure that it was necessary. Check and see. I REALLY like these "O"s. They're simple and versitile and fun to play with!

Keep us informed!

Last night I tried the steering wheel with no success and cut some gaskets for the rear so I could put the covers back on to keep the dirt out. I wasn't to aggressive with the wheel. As you can see, it needs to come off. The second pic is what fell off the gov. when I touched it. I need to find a wright-up on the gov. and want to get the underside power washed today.

I don't have the $ to put into this engine right now. That's why I'm not doing much with it. I'll get this resleaved or repower it later. I'd rather take the K161 from the 72 for the O and put the 14 hp in the 72 if it comes to that. I'm not particular in that it doesn't get modified but I'd like to keep it as close as I can to how they rolled off the line.

My one Original's steering wheel was installed by the Hulk. It was TIGHT!

i used a pulley puller with a good bit of pressure on the shaft. i tighten it just about to the point where it'll let go somewhere, then I smack the puller with a pretty good sized hammer. It may make some guys shiver on here, but I've smacked it pretty good to get 'em to move sometimes.

I've heard of guys just using their knees and tapping with a hammer. I'm envious. :biggrin2:

Once you've got that puller tight (I mean TIGHT) and smack it with the hammer, it's amazing what moves! Just my experience. Your mileage may vary.

Good luck.

I tried the wheel with a puller. It didn't budge. I'll just have to get even more aggressive with it. Would heat hurt anything?

I set it on its sides and power washed the underside fairly well. I don't see anything amiss - but what do I know? This is the first I've seen the underside without being 6" away. Splitting it looks easy at this point. Anyway, here are some pics (some before and some after washing). A couple other pics thrown in for good measure.

You are surely on your way!

I'm not sure that heat wouldn't smoke the bushing in the top of the column. I'd be hesitant to do that until we hear from someone more knowledgeable about doing it.

Definitely looks like you've got a grip on going through this one though. And really, compared to the later tractors, these are really pretty simple. Even more so than the direct-drive ones. Of course, that's my opinion.

It looks like it's been used, that's for sure. But still a lot of life left in the ol' girl. Keep up the great work!

I remember something about not using heat on the steering wheel but if it's due to the bearing, well, you saw the picture. That could have been for the newer models too.

You've been busy! Keep the pics coming. :beerchug:

The steering wheel came off with only moderate persuasion. I used a gear puller and didn't need heat. I can just about see the end of the tear down and prep of the of the chassis for paint coming.

I have a different set for the lift with an extra notch. Pics 2 & 3. The parts with yellow paint came off the O. The others I got in a box at an auction. I'll have to try it to see if I can get more movement.

In pic 4 the hole looks elongated but it looks like it was made that way. The clutch is not fully releasing and there is not a lot left for adjustment. Is this hole worn or is it the way it's supposed to be?

I'm hyped now that the wheel popped. I'll pull the tower before calling it a night. I've never done most of this before so I've got lots of pics so I can get it back together. :-) I'm gonna need to spend some quality time with the service manual soon. Lots I don't know. I'd really like to hear what should be checked and done in the way of getting it squared away before painting. My girl had to go to Boston. I've got till the 8th to get done what I can before she gets back here to my place. I'm doing this in my house.

That sounded like I'm sneaking around on her with CC. She knows what I'm doing and the room was planned and built for such activities. I just do the dusty, dirty, and stinky stuff outside or in the garage. Fortunately for me I've been a good boy because she is coming home Sat. night till Mon. morning. I just need to straighten up ---- A LOT.

Anyway, the update. I did split the tractor. It wasn't really a big deal.

The oil seal on the reduction drive shaft is bent. It didn't leak before and I don't think I did it but it still needs replaced I believe. (pics 1 & 2)

The clutch shaft mushroomed against the reduction drive shaft inside the reduction drive shaft coupling. The flex disk looks alright to me but it will never be replaced until that mushroom is removed inside that pilot hole. I'll do that now while it's out but I don't know how yet. (pics 3 & 4)

That odd red wheel has the valve stem on the inside.

That one hole was elongated some but the clutch operating rod has far more ware. (Last pic)

Thanks for the update and pics. Keep up the good work!

Great to see that it is moving along nicely. I've got to get crackin' on my "O" if I'm ever going to have it finished for show season this winter!

Yup, we're a little backward on our seasons. Got the last pull of the summer coming up this weekend and then, it's getting ready for the show season while the rest of the world is white and fluffy! Oh, sorry, you MAY not want to be thinking about that already... :biggrin2:

This isn't a hydro so the brakes mean more. It seems to me this area should be dry. The steering needs cleaned. I should do the bearing upgrade.

The frame is in the electrolysis tank. It will be done today. The steering cleaned up well. When I saw that brake I figured it needed replaced (like a cars pads soaked in grease). It cleaned up well and I believe it is alright for a little, slow tractor. That grease has to go somewhere and both carriers were pretty full. I don't recall carrier clean out being on the regular maintenance schedule. I still haven't ordered any parts yet.

The trany and frame are in primer. I got a set of used 23 x 10.5 rear tires and rims for it. The clutch assembly and some engine tin are the last of the yellow needing to go into primer. The mushroomed pilot came off easy enough reaming it with the handle end of a file.
It's gone much easier than I had anticipated. The parts it's needing are few and relatively cheap. I hope the engine goes as well as the chassis.

The bearings and seals came today. I'm still running a few parts through the electrolysis tank. The engine is going to get painted as well since I don't know when I'll be able to get it machined or replaced. I'm wanting to shoot paint this Sunday.

It rained a little this morning and looked threatening half the day so I decided it should wait to get painted. I had wanted to get pics up tonight of all the parts in paint. The new bearings and seals are in and I'm done with the electrolysis tank. I picked up a set of front tires in very good condition at a yard sale yesterday for $10 and they even had the tubes. I still need to get the seat and deck welded though.

Most of the parts are hanging in the wood shed where they will be set to dry but a few still need gathered together.
Some shots of the frame repair done by a PO. I want to cut the angle iron off that hangs down but I'll need to stay away from that weld.
I rattle canned the places on the parts that meet and won't get paint after I close up the transmission for the painting. Soon the fun part can begin - assembly.

Thanks for the pics and update! Looking good!:beerchug:

Looking good Curtis. Looks like my garage with 102 parts all in prime.

Nice work, Curtis!

I managed to get in the first coat of yellow. Instructions on the can said to let it fully dry before the second coat.
Using a new gun I thought the gun wasn't working right. Managed to get a few runs before chasing down the problem. I lowered the air pressure the other day when I got rained out and must have raised it when I filled a tire. Thinking it was still at 50 lbs. I found it at 85 today. I must have gave it a little bump to speed things along there. The gun survived me disassembling it several times and is working well.
I'm using Majic paint and it flows well and has good coverage.

Looking great!

Can't wait to see it all together! But I'm sure I'm not the only one. :biggrin2:

Keep up the great work, and if possible, keepin' us informed of the progress.

thanks!