CC 1450 hydro coupler roll pin
 

Hello,

Had a roll pin snap late this afternoon . Its the pin that at the rear of the drive shaft that holds the coupler to the hydro unit. What size is this ? ... can I get one locally ... or is this a Cub Cadet part I should send off for ?

tks for any info

Bryan :bigthink:

it should be just a standard 1/4 spiral roll pin. heavier the better. might want to check everything out and see WHY it snapped?

Just get a grade eight bolt and double nut it. So much easier. :beerchug:

Roll pin
 

thanks you guys ... I'll remove the shaft and take a look. The motor runs fine..when I remove the shaft i'll spin the input of the hydro and feel if seems normal. I was going from reverse to forward when it happened. Everything is dry etc .... and the Coupler holes don't appear out of round or any noticeable cracks etc. When I put the tractor back together I used the pin I took out...the original I suppose.

I'll check it out tomorrow night.

later, B.

i don't reccomend using a bolt it will not be tight in the hole and will egg the hole out in the shaft

I don't think there are very many other people here who would reccomend using a bolt either...

Put a good quality 1/4" spiral pin back in there and providing nothing is wrong with the hydro trans, you should be good for a long long time.

Any good farm implement store, especially a Case IH dealer worth their salt will have SPIROL pins in stock.

Dave S.

Now I get it. SPIROL is a brand name of spiral pin.

1450
 

Here is the real culprit .... when it let loose it sheared the pin ... also put a hole in the top of my filter.

Anyone have a rear drive couple they would sell me perhaps ?

Bryan

Duct tape for the filter, JB Weld for the coupling!! :bigthink:

:ExtremeFunny:

Sorry to hear about the failure!!
:bigeyes:

I don't know that it is a brand name (though it could be, I don't know everything) it is a type of pin.

Instead of being a simple "C" shaped roll pin, they are actually coiled.

I get mine from here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#spiral-pins/=mfm0g1

Spirol.com

Looks like a brand name spiral wound spring pin.

1450 drive line
 

I'm back ... took a good look at the drive line. It's the only system I reinstalled without new parts when I rebuilt. Soooo ... i'm modifying / updating it ... have a ujoint to fit a 5/8" shaft for the rear where it attaches to the hydro and have ordered two new isolaters for the front connection at the engine .... given that it took 35 yrs for the original to fail ..... this should be my last attempt / rebuild of the drive line.

should be up and running this weekend.

Bryan

I had a rear rubber flex disk break one time... It tore a hole in my filter just about like that one. If it ain't one thing, it's two!

drive line
 

yosem sam ...

if thats not the truth ... had just sold my old Snapper too ... thought I was good to go ! Farewell Snapper!

B.

drive line parts
 

Got these on the front porch this evening ... using the original setup up front on the engine ... with two new isolators / flex discs .... and this SKF universal joint for the rear at the hydro . The original pin holes on the shaft are worn where they anchor the attachment castings so shortening it will tighten things back up.
Having a friend at a machine shop drill the new holes so they are square and true (nice to have all those fixtures) after I shorten the shaft to accomidate the u joint ... maybe Wednesday night I can button it back up.

B.

Where do you get that universal joint? Looks like a great idea.

What is maximum rpm for the u-joint?

part #'s / U joint rating
 

Here are the SKF part # for anyone interested ...

bearings and spider 1-0170
yoke (2 rqd') 10-4373 accepts 5/8" shaft


these are spec'd on small truck applications ... so anything we throw at them
is minimal. Definatly overkill but fits quitlines well.

B.

What was wrong with the original setup? Like was stated earlier, it last 35 years the way it was. Aren't you still gonna be using a roll pin to retain your yoke? Lot of extra mass spinning there.

Again......
What is maximum rpm for the u-joint?

Show me the specs.

drive shaft
 

On a rainy Sunday here in the SE got a chance to put it together and fire it up. Runs very smooth , I like it. We ended up machining for a key way for the connection and it had enough room to slide it to allow installing / removal of complete shaft.

B.

That tractor is just WAY too clean inside the frame!! :bigthink:

:biggrin2:

Lookin' good!! :beerchug:

My Gravely runs two of those joints to the mower deck at 2K RPM and 24HP, mostly at a steep angle.

I do not know how mine survive, the slip joint (square bar/square tube) has LOTS of slop in it, lots of wobble, lots of angle, etc,,,,,,,, and it is 23 years old.

Your straight shaft ought to run truer than mine.

shaft
 

Cadplan,

the tractor only has 15 hrs on it , had rebuilt it last year. The reason I added the joint is I have a slight shaft inclination due to installing a vangard v-twin. I had thought about adding another at the engine. I contacted skf the u joint mfg and they noted 3500rpm is safe for it ...along with its rated for much higher hp and torque than my 18hp is generating.

I'll have to admitt...its my garage toy ... I keep it pretty clean after use. I'm a single Dad of twin girls so escape out to garage and build my garden toys.

Taks care...

B.

Nice job! Glad it's working for you.

Thanks for the part numbers

Been thinking about this for our Original puller but hadn't been able to find the right size joints