Help me understand hydro adjustment
 

I've got a problem trying to understand the hydro adjustment process on the 1650. I know I'm thick headed, so it don't sink in, so I was hoping someone could explain it to me.
Here is what it's doing, or not. With the brake on to start, and the control lever in the N position you can hear that the brakes are holding it back from moving. The conrtol lever is in the N position. After it is started you hear the hydro whine sound, (trying to explain it) then take off the brake and the tractor creaps forward, ever so little. I have to pull the lever back just below the N position to stop the tractor, and it stops the noise.
I know it's the adjustment to the linkage, (I think) and that's where I don't understand.
It says to adjust the cam bracket to eliminate the noise. It talks about using a hammer and punch to adjust the cam bracket downwards to stop the wheels.
Don't understand, anyone explain it to me different?

I am not a big manual reader (only when necessary :biggrin2:), but, I would think turning one of the threaded yokes would be the correct adjustment for this "fix".

JMHO :bigthink:

Zippy the cam bracket is bolted on the left side of the hydro pump as you are sitting on the tractor. It should be fastened on with 2-12 point bolts. It would be a L shaped bracket with elonggated slots for up and down adjustment. Loosen the fasteners just a little so there is still a little tension on the bracket and tap the bracket either up or down depending on which way the wheels are creeping. Have the tractor on jackstands before doing this. Hope this helps. Kelly
:beerchug:

Zippy, I have EXACTLY the same problem so I'll be following your progress closely. When I read it in the manual it sounded simple and once you do it it probably is.......it's just doing it.

I know where it is, it's just understanding it that I don't.
But I'll try loosening it up as Kelly mentioned, and trying that.
If-in that don't work I'll try Cad's plan:bigthink:

Todd...
Kelly hit the nail on the head....
It does not take much to change so, go easy with the BFH.

Ok, Lew.
Don't be suprised if you get a call if it don't work:biggrin2:

Todd eat some deer jerky while your reading the manual it will all make sense then.:beer2:

FYI a little tap goes a long way on this adjustment, it doesn't take much. You also have to make sure that your trunion is perfect and not worn and you also need to make sure there is no play in the plastic sleeve bushing thing that is on the cam bracket. It's really hard to explain all of this but if you look at a parts diagram you will figure it out. Start by getting the rear of the tractor up in jack stands and try the neutral adjustment, if it works great and your good to go, if not you have some worn out parts that need attention.

Here is "where" I learned to adjust the neutral position. It's not at all complicated, however I would bet that if no one has been in there to do any work lately, you will also have other wear issues, keep us posted.

http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

Well buddy, I brought out the big guns for this think fest. Backstraps on the grill, read the advice givin me buy you great bunch of cub nuts.
Followed your suggestions and the 1650 and myself couldn't be happier with the ending result. While in the N posission, I told it to stay, and it did without making a sound.
Actually an easy enough adjustment, but I need to be told in cub talk, not from a page from a manual, hard for me to understand sometimes, that CRS is really catching up on me.
So thanks for all the imput, on an easy fix.:clap::High5:

Glad to hear you got it figured out there Todd! Now next time it's your turn to be the Expert! :biggrin2:

Great news Todd!:beerchug:

Awesome news Todd.:beer2:

Glad you got it, Todd!

I can sympathize with Todd. The manual's description of how to do the neutral adjustment is pretty cryptic. I, too, was confused about how to do it. Once you do it, though, you realize how easy it is. But, as others have said, it's a "hair trigger" adjustment. Very minor changes have a big effect. I did it on my 1650 but I still need to do it on my 149.

just finished this adjustment this afternoon on my 1650. Now I can lock the brake pedal down without a loud whining from the hydro and the tractors tendency to creep is gone. Now for the hundred other things left to figure out.
Dave:beerchug:

Glad to hear your getting things figured out as well. Really easy fix once it's done, but the instructions make it seem pretty tough to do. And I see it don't take much movement and it's to far the other way. A little goes a long way:bigthink:
Good luck on the other 100 things:beerchug:

100 Things
 

Thanks Todd, I'm sure I'll need it. Took care of 2 more this afternoon.....got the ags mounted.

brake return to neutral
 

I have read the procedure for adjusting the cam bracket for creep. I have adjusted the hydro control rod to achieve full travel forward and reverse. I have adjusted the brake connecting rod to try to achieve neutral from both forward and reverse. I can adjust it to bring it to neutral from forward and it will not bring it to neutral from reverse. I can adjust it to bring it to neutral from reverse and it will not bring it to neutral from forward.

The link to the above instructions alludes to this problem but suggests no solution. I have spent hundreds of dollars in the last couple of weeks on this 1512 for missing and worn parts so I am not opposed to spending a few more dollars to replace worn out parts.

Should I begin by trying to find a replacement for the 703-0198 Cam Assembly? and if that does not do it try to find a replacement for the 703-0194Plate Assembly (if an alternate is available)? Is it possible to replace the pin in the 703-0200 Control Rod? Should I ignore this problem since the brake is unnecessary except for parking?

On mine the cam bracket was bent, I had to straighten it. The PO had "adjusted" the brakes to a point where things strarted bending as the pads were completely worn out. Then I shimmed, adjusted, spent the majority of a Sunday afternoon fiddling with it. Shimmed some more, was able to get one more thin shim in there. I thought I had it, then on Monday nite it was creeping again, so another adjustment, this time it seems to have worked.
I was about ready to get a gear drive.

Sounds to me like your neutral adjustment is off.

Forget about the lever on the dash, adjust it until it will return to transmission neutral from the brake lever from both directions. Then adjust the dash to match. If you don't understand, just say and we'll try and walk you through it.

Of the dozen or so hydros that I have, I have adjusted most of them and very few are perfect.

I do understand wanting one to be "right", although for me, getting close is usually good enough. It all depends on how much it bothers you.

Keep in mind that I have never done this, but if I were wanting to attempt to make one perfect (without buying new parts). I would screw the clevis onto the control rod, just a tiny bit at a time, to see if that would eliminate some of the "slop" that contributes to this problem. If it doesn't, then new parts would be in order. Depending on wear, cam pivot bracket, control rod and/or cam control. The pins on the control rod probably show more wear than anything else, If you are going to buy parts, I would start with that.

I have one hydro (my 149) that I cannot get to go to perfect neutral with the brake from forward AND reverse. So I adjusted it to work from forward since that's the most frequent need. I am so used to driving a gear drive--that's all I had for 35 years-- I still use the brake a lot with my hydros.

I can't wait till I've got to do my 147 from underneath.

I have to do this adjustment on my 149 because it ran over my foot today. Nothing hurt, I was standing next to it pushing the brake lever down to start it and when it started, it took off. The hydro linkage has been sloppy since I bought it, but I could live with it, only using it for roto tilling. Now I need it for the snowblower and am pissed because I didn't do this while it was nice this summer. Last year I had replaced the head and gasket, and rebuilt the steering box, now this. I'll get back on here and tell you all how things went.........Al

Thanks Guys
 

Zippy, I'm so glad that you made this post, and Kelly I'm so glad you put things into, as Zippy calls it, Cub language. I fixed my 149 today in a matter of minutes. I think it took longer to get the jack stands out and get the tractor on them than it took for the adjustment. No more creeping, neutral is neutral, I'm a happy man. Thanks again, and thanks for this great site.............Al

Yes laying on the floor under the 147 and having the wheels turning at the same time keeps you on your toes. Better have the front wheels blocked real good.
One of the major wear points is the trunnion.
Regards,
Chris

I wonder if I can flip it and work on it like how I used to work on my bicycles.....:bigthink:

Glad it worked out for you:beerchug:
Much easier to understand from someone who did the adjustment than trying to figure it out from the manual. For me anyway....

You mean like this?

Hahaha no I mean directly flip OVER.