104 no spark
 

Started work on my 2nd 104 that I got a few days ago. It needs a new ign switch, but I was able to jump the harness plug to get it to turn over. I found that it doesn't have spark. I verified power to the + side of the coil. I inspected and re-set the points to .20. Tried a known to be good coil, and capacitor. Still no dice. Besides going over the main wiring harness, is there anything I'm overlooking? Meanwhile, here's it brother ready for the mowing season.

try putting some fine sand paper like 400 grit or higher inbetwin the points when they are closed and run the sand paper accost both sides get any rust off them ive also see where theres like wax on them when they are new to protect them thats what id try also might want to try a different condenser

Did you try a new plug?

When I get a new Cub and the wiring is suspect I:

Hook the positive wire from a jumper box to the "A" terminal on the S/G and hook the negative wire to one of the bolts that hold the S/G on.

Run a smaller wire (with alegator clips on each end) from the positive clamp on the jumper box to the positive side of the coil.

Then turn the jumper box on and make the engine crank.

If it doesn't acts like it is "getting any fire", I turn off the boost box, then turn the engine so the points are closed, unhook the cable from the S/G, turn the boost box back on and open and close the points with a screwdriver. If the points are making fire, then you will see it (and sometimes feel it).

On the negative side of the coil, there should only be power there when the points are open. If you have power there all the time, it means that your points aren't making contact.

I also have a cheapie tester that goes between the plug wire and the plug, you can see the fire there too.

That said: Your engine needs to be "timed" so you are getting fire at the right time, if it isn't firing at the right time it will never start. Twenty thousandths does't always do it.

Ok, thanks. I did try a good condenser, but it didn't help. The points looked clean, but I can try the sandpaper. Can't hurt.

It isn't firing period. I also have the in-line tester you mentioned. I haven't checked the timing, but that wouldnt cause it to have no spark, just not at the right "time", correct?? I didn't try a different plug. I figured if the tester wasn't showing anything it wouldn't be the plug?? And I checked it on my other 104, the bulb isn't blown. :bigthink:

maybe the ignition switch isn't connected properly. I had that happen to me once. I replaced it worked good. A new spark plug I would try too.

I'm pretty sure that the plug has to actually spark for it to show up on the tester.

You are correct, it doesn't have to be "timed" to get a spark.

Still have to have a spark at the points before you get a spark at the plug.

We are all rootin for you.

I would for sure try a new plug and spark plug wire also.

Did you try running a HOT WIRE to the coil from the battery to bypass everything else that might be an issue?

Look this up on youtube, Cub Cadet Kohler K301A 12 hp Basic Wiring Jump start. It shows how to get around your wiring like jump starting it. Don't be afraid to just grab that plug wire to see if it's got spark. That's how see if the spark is hot or weak.

Well after trying just about everything, I finally found the culprit. Is anyone fimilar with the acronym K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid)? I was using my multimeter to time, and set the points like the thread on here shows, but wasn't having any luck getting the proper reading on the meter. So I removed the breaker assembly and checked for continuity between the buttons. NONE. Well long story short, after a few swipes with sandpaper, I was up and running. Lesson learned. Thanks everyone for your help!

:Duh:

Great news! :beerchug:

Good to hear you got it figured out!:beerchug:

Now, everyone knows why I own a points file with the fleet I have. They are inexpensive and available from most any auto parts house. A must have in the tool box of an IH Cub Cadet owner IMHO. I also strongly recommend a long skinny locking screwdriver for removal and insertion of those pesky points cover screws. Sure makes checking the points a whole lot easier. Also make sure that the points cover gasket is intact and in place. It and that little corner rubber wire grommet are also still available. Use 'em!

Can you find anyone in an auto parts store that knows what a points file is?

Now that makes me laugh,
good thinking! most do not know what points are.
I still have a couple of "gems" ---Diamond dusted point files, they don't get any better than that.
In a pinch, wifey's emery board will work, but they are much too coarse really.
also thin metal nail files work.
Wished I had a penny for every set of points that were replaced that just needed a "touching up" I'd make Donald Trump look like a poor man!

I was in Advance Auto yesterday and asked where they kept the zerk fittings. Guy looked puzzled. Grease Nipple? Oh, yeah, we have those.

Hardware store (Lowes). Need some 3/8 Nylock nuts. What? Stop Nuts. Oh, yeah, we have those over here....

Oh, back on the points issue. No spark, first thing I check continuity across the points. Take the lead from the points off the coil, put one lead of your VOM on that lead, ground the other lead, turn the engine over by hand and watch for resistance to go from zero to infinite or if you are on the continuity setting, listen for the tone to go on and off.

Ask 'em for stover nuts and see what they say!!

Dave S.