1650 steering wheel removal
 

Hmmm, now that I got the fenders off another goal is giving me fits. Is there a special puller for the steering wheel? That thing won't come off! :bash2: Suggestions?

:bigthink:

Thanks,
Nate

This guy makes a nice tool for removing stuck wheels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8FjiG-Mzz4

Got a big brass drift??
Soak the shaft/nut w/WD-40 or whatever...for a while maybe?
Put the seat back on and sit on it w/your knees crammed up under the wheel
If Ya are a short wheelbase guy, Ya may need to shim up under yer feet w/2x4's or sumthin'
back the nut off till its flush w/the top of the shaft
set the drift on the nut/shaft
put as much pressure up under the wheel w/your knees as possible
and smack the drift w/a BFH

Simple , huh??

Has Worked every time for me

Unless Ya wanna spend big bucks for a puller ypu will probably only use once!!

Dave S.

Had the same problem with a 102 steering wheel. Soaked that thing for over a week but no luck. Another member, Matt G. shows a wood support that fits under the wheel and a wheel puller fits to it and I made one in about 10 minutes. Wheel popped right off. Made the price of the puller worth the cost.

To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!

When using a wheel puller do not screw the center bolt right to the end of the threaded shaft that holds the wheel. I used a piece of flat steel over the end of the steering col and then the center bolt of the puller on that. You never want to apply any pressure directly to the end of the steering shaft or it will either split or otherwise mess up the threads.

:Welcome2:

Thanks all I'm also a cub newbie I just passing on what I learned . Hopefully you don't ruin your wheel like I did

Thanks for the tips. Will give it a try.:beerchug:

steering wheel removal
 

I used a harmonic balancer puller. I put the puller over the center, marked 2 spots in the metal splined part and drilled and tapped two 10-24 holes at a slight outward angle ,( so the 2 bolts would fit in the puller slots ). Then with the appropiate bolts and washers , and protective cap on forcing screw, ( to protect threads on column ) it came right off. I did soak it with penatrating oil 1st, and a little heat for good measure and with handtools it came off. Makes it real easy next time. BTW, mine is a 104. I presume others are similar. I personally didn't like hammering on the column. Matt G's idea is excellent also.

Chris

I've tried several methods and so far no luck. :bash2:

I even managed to damage my wheel.:bash2:

:bash:

I am not expert, far from it. Was able to get the steering wheel off my 108, a 149 and a 1650. Was NOT able to get the wheel off my 72. Damaged the shaft threads in the process. Gave up, pulled the cover off the gearbox without removing the entire assembly, reground the follower stud, regreased it, replaced the seal and reassembled and adjusted it. It worked fine. Had to epoxy the acorn nut on to the steering column as the threads were too damaged to screw the nut on. Should last a few years.

The only reason you NEED to remove the steering wheel if is the bearings are shot--and of the ones I've rebuilt, the bearings were still perfect and replacement was unnecessary. So unless there is up/down play in the steering, I'd venture that removal is not required to get the gear working properly.

I got it off!!!!! :beer2:

Three weeks soaking in PB blaster and it's off! It came off kinda oddly. I was just attaching the puller and as I was tightening it by hand it just popped off. :biggrin2:


:beer2:

:beer2:

10 minutes later I had the dash and tower off, column off, and front wheels off. Progress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy ending is a good thing LOL:biggrin2:

Good for you glad it came right off. As for ruining your th:biggrin2:reads that's why you screw the nut on so you don't . Also if you can't get it off after soaking it and hitting it with a lump hammer your going to break everything below if you hit it with a sledge. Another cub guy told me he puts a bolt in his air chisel after soaking it in pb blaster for couple of days and vibrates it off. Only thing I can say is destroyed my wheel using a jaw puller. Any cub I get from now on I will use the 5/8s bolt method with hammer or with air chisel. Good luck to everyone trying

I am happy that the wheel came off. When you put it back together, it is good to use an ample amount of Anti-Seize grease on the splines. That way, the next time you need to pull the steering wheel, it will be a whole lot easier job.

Good luck with your repairs.

Great news!:beerchug:

Glad you got the steering wheel off, and made some progress!

thanks everyone! :beerchug:

MSIXTEEN -- This worked perfectly. Just 5 raps with a regular claw hammer and the wheel popped up. Thanks!

Another tip to add for future steering wheel removals is after soaking it, try tightening the nut back down very tight, and then try the other mentioned methods. I built a steel puller and even with that I still had to retighten the nut to break the rust before it could be pulled off. Worked first try after that.

My experience is that sometimes they come off easier than other times. I bought a puller even. Two of them came off with some soaking, pretension, and hammer whacks. One of them did not. Seemed welded (its not). I buggered it up to where I just cut it off and now I have a steering wheel with a piece of the shaft still stuck in it. Figure I will put it on a mill somewhere and mill it out until it lets go.