options if pins wont come out of drive shaft (rear end side)
 

I can't get these things out. Not with heat or oil or a bfh. Any other ideas. I'm okay with destroying the shaft if need be. Here's a pic of what I'm talkin about http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...ps0288432a.jpg

This is on a 104

I just did this the other night I was having problems too. My first problem was I didn't having enough space to swing my hammer to hit the punch to drive the pin out. But just as important is having the right size punch. Only use a 1/4" punch. I was using a 3/16" and I was causing more damage by peening over the end that you want to drive out of hole making more thinks worse. Go over to Lowes cost $12 for a 6 piece set made by Bostich. Don't forget to shoot some P.B.Blaster on the pin before leave for the store.
Good Luck

Jeff

It may sound silly, but go to Sears and get a package of roll/spiral pin punches, they should cost you aboul $20.00

Then, using a grinder or cut off wheel, grind/cut the pin flush with the side of the coupler. Using your new 1/4" punch, drive the pin out! Don't mess around with it, just DRIVE it out.

You also may want to cut a piece of wood that you can wedge between the coupler and the under side of the tunnel to give the input shaft some support, it will not only help protect the input shaft/bearing/housing from damage, it will also make each "wack" with your hammer more productive.

I have punches. I'm going to have to chop em flush and try the wood trick too. I'm gonna see if my dad has a longer one though.

vartz04: The roll pin punch MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE, believe us, we know from painful experience. :Rant::Swear::Unknown:

roll/ Spiral punch ONLY - and brace.

I can NOT express how much I agree with Jumper. Thanks for the pic.

Spirol punches are the way to go!!! They make quick work of taking out those pins! I agree with everyone else! :beerchug:

Thanks guys. I'll get some of those.

I promise you won't regret it.

An easier way to get at those roll pins in a narrow frame is to remove the roll pin at the other end of the drive shaft so you can slide off the two pressure plates and the clutch disk. Then you can disconnect the brake, unbolt the transaxle, and then split the transaxle from the rest of the tractor. The drive shaft will slide out with it and then you can work on removing those roll pins without being confined to the small space between the frame rails.

To remove that one roll pin lock the clutch pedal down, then brace up the end of the drive shaft and drive it out. Much easier than working under the tractor.

Tractor is flipped upside down

I had one stuck on my 100. Tried everything. Then drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the tunnel above the pin. Took a bottle jack and took up the slack below the coupler. Took a pilot punch (has a nipple on the end that goes in the hole in a roll pin). And with a fairly long pilot punch was able to drive down on the pin to drive it through.

[QUOTE=Yosemite Sam;176259]It may sound silly, but go to Sears and get a package of roll/spiral pin punches, they should cost you aboul $20.00=QUOTE]

I've got the same set Yosemite Sam,red is easy to find ...

LMAO!!!

As much as I hate to admit it, I have a 147 that has been giving me trouble, rolled over on it's side and propped up with a couple of "spare" wheels and tires.

Well mine is just the frame and the axle now. It's all taken apart for paint. Not sure I would do it full of fluids. Hopefully I remember to refill the rearend when I am done with this project.

Still no luck using the punches and having wood jammed in there to hold it. Is it possible to drill these out?

You may want to take a grinder and smooth out the area you have been pounding on on the coupler/spirol pin. That way you can get an idea where the center of the pin is and clear up any "mushrooming" of the area.
Just a thought

Looks like the ends of the pins have become flared making them larger in diameter than the hole they are in. You might try taking a dremel tool and whacking the pin off flush with the rockshaft then driving it out with a roll pin punch. .....humm...how would I know this?:bigthink:

Are these 1 way in 1 way out? I've been working on the one end that is below the collar so it isn't mushroomed. I got new wheels for my cut off tool yesterday so maybe ill have to do some chopping. Those roll pin punches weren't cheap. Made about 60 miles from my house though

They go in either way. Keep soaking with PB Blaster and upgrade to a little bigger hammer or use heat to help you out.

3 lb engineers hammer. Torch and multiple applications of oil and still no movement. They haven't moved even the slightest amount

Keep soaking them with PB Blaster for a while if you're not in a big hurry. Even though the end may not look mushroomed, a PO may have mushroomed it knocking it in. I'd grind it flush with the coupler.

I have drilled them out with a Carbide drill like you use to drill concrete. Use something like a 3/16" bit.

Well if soaking it a couple more times and a shot of heat or 2 doesn't do it I'm buyin a drill bit. I'll give it til Sunday. I made a little cup to put around it and filled it full of liquid wrench. Hopefully that will do it.

Just a thought..maybe that rp is sheard off inside the coupler and it is no longer aligned with the drive shaft hole.I would remove the wood and wedge some steel in there.Being you have just the frame and tranny left to remove,just flip it on its back and give it some wacks.

You're saying use a wedge and try to pull the collar back from the rear end? The pins are going all the way thru but I guess the ends could just be in there and the other chunk of the pin is in the shaft. I've honestly never had this sort of issue even when tearing down an old ford 600 that spent its life spreading salt in a parking lot v

No wedge just hold the driveshaft with a lock pliers, the turn the wheels while it is in gear to see if the pin is sheared or not.
The metal is to resupport the coupler while you hit it.

Yeah, It sounds like the pin may be sheared or partly sheared.

If I understand you correctly, it sounds like the end of the pin is already "below" the surface of the coupler on one side... Even if it is, I would still grind the other side flush with the coupler and try driving it out the other way. I would also try using a smaller punch to see if it would "jar" the center of the pin enough to help break it loose (I have done this a number of times with good results).

Roll Pin Punches
 

If you're not using the roll pin punches I doubt you'll be able to move them.

I was having the same trouble with the drive shaft in my 782, even after I had removed it from the tractor. Only when I started over by (1) cutting it off clean and filing it smooth, (2) dousing it with penetrating oil, (3) employing the Roll Pin Punch with the dimple on top, and (4) using the aforementioned BFH was I able to get it to move at all. I never had to resort to heat.

The roll pin punch was the key, nothing happened until I got a set, just sayin'

Funny thing is, once I got the old one out, I've lost several new ones, even though I got a new drive shaft and roll pins. I thing that between the rust and the twisting forces, the old ones "get set in their ways" not unlike grumpy old men. :)

Jeremiah

I've got a set of roll pin punches. Made in the USA

I've done quite a few and I just use a regular pin punch, though I'm sure the roll pin punches make it easier.

Having removed many of those obstinate rolled up chunks of steel myself, I am inclined to believe the theory of your spirol pin being broken off in the shaft and would pursue checking that out first. No amount of pounding will remove either end of the pin if that is the case. I did find that once and the one end was long enough to put an old set of vise grips on it and hitting the grips with a hammer. Once I got that piece backed out I then could see to use a punch and remove the rest. Usually once you get the pin to move a little it gets progressively easier to move. Just this week my son and I removed 4 spirol pins three of which have been in the clutch since it was new back in the 60s. They after soaking in PB for nearly a week came right out with a few good wacks from hammer and punch. I have a whole bunch of punch sizes and lengths some of which are just round metal stock and a few of them are ground down to fit specific size pins. Once they are peened at the end I just grind the peening off. I have found that a pin about a foot or more long is more controllable than one only a few inches in length, plus you can hold a longer pin better with a pair of pliers to keep the shock away from your hand and avoid spilling your own blood on the floor.

My roll pin punches are the same size as a 6 sided 3/8" socket.To make them longer I put a little tape on the end of the punch for a tight fit,add the proper extension and whack away with the big brass hammer. :Boxer:

I'm still having problems with the spiral pin in the front axle pivot of my 72. the proper punch, a BFH and a flush ground pin still results in no movement. Next step is a carbide drill bit. This pin location is problematic--its an an odd angle and clear access with a long punch is only available from below. The frame prevents getting to the other end of the pin as it is oriented at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock looking at the axle pivot from the front. Hadn't considered that the pin is sheared (or partially sheared) since it's not a high stress application. I'm not sure what is going on, as I've been able to get every other pin I've encountered out before this one.

I don't know where they came from, but I got a set of those spiral/roll pin punches for an air hammer. Drives them right out if you can keep the shaft from spinning back and forth. Also used regular punches but they're frustrating and I always ended up taking an oxygen acetylene torch and washing the coupler off the drive shaft and output shaft on the tranny. But then I'm out a coupler.


As others have said, I think those roll pin punches are the way to go

I will bet that the little pin that holds the front axle pin in place is sheared off, the axle pin rusts itself into the front axle and then the axle pin rotates in the frame and not in the front axle as it should.

I know from running wheel weights, and popping the clutch will make that roll pin all chewed up and bent. I was surprised at what mine looked like. I was glad I separated the tractor and used the correct bracing to pound out that pin, she came out fine. If I was doing this for a living I would be broke waiting on all that silly oil to work. My old hard way worked for me.

Hope you get it out ok.:biggrin2:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...ps98bd9aff.jpg

Got the $!*#*@* out. Ended up cutting it flush then after bending 2 punches pounding on it (made in USA ones) I drilled down about a 1/4" with a 3/16 carbide tipped bit and then used a 3/16 pin punch and smacked the heck out of it one time with the 3lb hammer and it popped out the bottom. It's way cheaper to buy a drill bit than the $40 set of roll pin punches that you guys all swear by. I'm just glad its over with and I can keep moving on the refresh.

Also since I was down to the frame and the rear end I had it.flipped over and had a v shap notched block of wood under it with a wedge under that to get it tight. Bracing was not my issue neither was access. I had a clear downward shot at the punch with the hammer.

Glad to hear you got it out!:beerchug:
They can be stubborn!