CC 100 Stuck in gear?
 

Hello All,

Last snow storm I was blowing snow with my brand new cab I've been building for the past month.Tractor was working great I was working the 2+ feet snow banks slow and steady when I couldn't shift into or out of my gears finally got it to got it to go into 3rd and brought it directly into the shop. Long story short the throw out bearing on the drive shaft imploded all over the drive shaft. Removed the cab, snow blower, motor dropped the shaft and replaced bearing, teaser spring and clutch disk. Thankfully for this board I had plenty of references to go by that gave me the confidence to tackle this project. My question now before I put the motor back in should I be able to shift in to all the gears. I can go from 1st to reverse but can't get it to shift to 2nd or 3rd. Or for that matter am I still in 3rd from when I pulled into the shop? Did something get caught up the the transmission? Is it really shifting into reverse & 2nd How could I tell with out putting all back together just to take it apart again? Thank you all so much, I'll post a picture of the cab in a little later because I know how many are interested in those home built units

Well goes from neutral to first and 3rd. Still locked out of 2nd & 3rd

You should be able to shift it without the engine in place. Jack up one rear wheel, put it in gear and by rolling the rear wheel that is off the ground you should be turning the drive shaft. Try all 3 forward gears and reverse. I reverse the drive shaft should turn in the opposite direction. If not you will need to remove the shifter and see what is going on inside the transmission.

Thanks Sam Mac,

Here is what happened. All descriptions are as if I was sitting on the tractor with the right rear wheel off the ground.
Neutral: Drive shaft spun with the wheel.
Stick in reverse position: spun lifted right wheel forward (clockwise) left wheel spun in opposite, drive shaft did not spin.
Stick in the 1st gear position: spun lifted right wheel forward (clockwise) left wheel spun in opposite, drive shaft did not spin.(same as reverse)
I had the same effect with the creeper in hi or low.
Shifter will still not go into 2nd. or 3rd.
So what does this tell me? Is there a way to get to where I want to be with out splitting tractor. Finally where and what am I exactly looking for?

Thank you all so much

I think you have something wrong with the shifter forks inside the tranny. You are going to have to split the tractor, probably (although I worked on my 100's tranny without doing so 'cause I couldn't get the pin out of the coupler. There will be just enough room to get the tranny cover off and look inside.) Then you can move the shifter around, check the shifter rods and see if the bolts are tight on the shifter forks. I suspect that a fork bolt loosened up and that is keeping you from getting into the other gears.

Thanks Fixer. Is the cover you're talking about on the top side or the front transmission?

Take the shifter cover off and see what your forks look like. I just hope one's not broke but it does happen.:bash2:

Yes, the "cover" is the plate that the shifter goes through.

From what you have said I feel pretty sure something has come loose inside the trans. But before you take it too far apart, try doing the things you have already done but do them with one of the rear tires firmly on the ground.

When turning a rear tire with the rear end in the air, the movement (like anything else) will take the path of least resistance, and almost always simply turn the other rear tire in the opposite direction.

In this case you are wanting to make the gears in the transmission rotate, keeping one tire on the ground will direct the "force" back through the transmission.

Thanks Sam,
Just finished disconnected the rear drive pin. So if I'm to understand you correctly theoretically if I keep that other wheel from spinning I should be able to spin the wheel I'm trying to spin with out the other moving wheel?

Since you havae got the pin disconnected and the drive shaft is loose in the coupler, go ahead and split the tractor. It is easy from this point on. Just remove the 3 bolts on each side that holds the tranny to the frame, jack up the frame in front of the tranny and roll the axle out. Then you can remove the top cover and see what is loose in the tranny. Don't worry about which tires spin when yet. Just look inside the tranny and see if the shifter forks are working.

OK I got the cover off. Please excuse my lack of know how but this is the first transmission I've taken apart so I don't know what I'm really looking or feeling for

Here's what I'm looking at. Thanks

Your shifter fork is bent and about to break.:bash2: It's easy fix you'll have to pull the rear cover and reduction housing to fix it once get the replacement fork. Our fine sponsors or a want ad will be able to hook you up.:beerchug:

Thanks Methos,

I think I noticed the bent fork as the same time that you spotted it,
I tried to straiten the fork and see if that simple fix would work then I would have placed a small tack weld to the outside of the prong to support it also I didn't see any cracks in it unless I'm looking at wrong part. (hey it's already broke right) Anyway movement didn't change in the least, so could something else be hung up that affecting the movement that I should be looking for before I order parts. So if there is anyone knows where a tutorial is for a fork transplant please let me Know.+ part numbers.

Thank you all for the help.

I wish I had a better pic to show you of the inside of my 124's tranny, but you can see there is something more going on in yours, I think. My 124 broke its shifter rod (how can a 1/2 inch rod break?). I still think that you have a fairly easy fix at this point.

Check out this thread. It may give you some more info. Has good pics and fork discussion.


No Reverse or 1st Gear, looking for input

From 10-12-2012

You may be in two gears at the same time or the fork that isn't in gear could be off center causing it to be "jambed up", for lack of better words.

Normally when the forks break, the crack is in the very thin part where the bolt goes through or underneath the rod at the end of the slot, often times very difficult to see without taking the fork out.

Try to position the forks so that the two "notches" where the end of the shifter should be create a little box so the ball on the end of the shifter can't come out. That is the neutral position, once it is "N" it should once again be easy to shift as it was before.

Still probably have to remove the fork to replace or repair it though... Might want to take them both out to inspect them.

Gotta find neutral first though.

Hey Sam,
I was thinking the same that something was all jumbled up. So after a very frustrating day I cleaned up and organized my mess with the benefit of pulling the vehicles out of the weather. Long story short This afternoon I was moving the transmission on the floor jack to a work space to take off the rear cover. One hand on the Jack the other on the shift handle when I heard and felt the sound of a smooth click of the tranny going into 1st. gear sure enough all the other gears followed suit. I don't think I should just except that all is well but I am tempted. Before I put the cover back on last night I was able to easily tighten the visible bolts about a half turn I think I could have gone tighter but I don't want to strip out or over torque them if they have a specific foot pound of torque. I would love to hear some thoughts on this.
Also before I button this up I am going to take a pic of what the fork placements look like in each gear, I think might be helpful to others.

I hope these will help someone out just trying to give back

Ahh, very good! Sounds like things are starting to go the right direction for you.

Personally, I would check the forks for cracks in the "weak spots" before I buttoned it back up.

When the trans is in neutral there is a "little box" where the ball on the end of the shifter goes, notice that when it is shifted (into any gear) the sides of the "little box" never get in a position where the ball can get out.

Also, VERY IMPORTAND, make sure that the sides of the "little box" where the ball on the end of the shifter goes, are bent very straight with each other. If they are bent (even a little) crooked, then that little ball will try to escape, and you will be back here again.

Truthfully... If it were mine, while I was it there, I would probably take the forks out, check them for problems and weld them so they can't bend again. But that's just me... I'm lazy as "heck" and wouldn't want to have to do it again later.

Good Luck

Thanks Sam

Very good advice. As a matter of fact I did just straiten the forks like you suggested. Really tightened up the shift patten also. I think I'm going to drop a small tack on the outside of the 4 prongs and call it day. The reason I'm chickening out is first I want to see if it works and 2nd I'm planning on splitting the tractor after snow season and before lawn season to give it all good sand blasting and paint. Remember this whole mess started because the bearing let lose when I was in a snowbank so trying to forcing it into any gear I could with no clutch and some sort of torque built up in axles the flex in the forks had to be the weakest link. That's what I'm thinking.

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