682 repower
 

I've got a 682 roller that I've decided on repowering with a ch18s.
Attachment 32664

The donor is a rusted out 2185.
Attachment 32665

Several other members have already done this conversion, and made it easier for others to follow your lead. I already know the wiring is gonna be an issue for me, so i'm going to get motor mounted, then tackle that. I was hoping that someone may have a laymans wiring schematic to help me muddle through the swap. I am going to use this tractor for mowing, so I swapped the pto from the KT17. The 682 S/N2050600u743397. And the 2185's S/N 385633. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Was that the 2185 off of CL in Bham? That was a great deal if you got that one. I'm sure someone will help you out here. Welcome to OCC.

Get with SamMac for an easy upgrade to that engine to take it into the 20+ HP range

Oak, Yea that's the one. The tin is rusted out and had been sitting couple years, but runs good now.

This is on Flea Bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-24-85...item20b97cd6df

If you want more power out of that CH

Couldn't you use the wiring harness out of the 2185?

Looks just like the one I got from my buddy in VA.:beerchug:

It's easier to use the 682 wiring with a couple minor mods, ask me how I know.

Yep it is just a different seller.

This is a list of the parts you will need to do the CH swap. This is what is used on an 1864 and it makes the swap almost a bolt in. Try the sponsors for the parts.

1 603-0025 Plate Assy, Engine Mounting nice to have but you can use the plate you have.
2 736-0185 Flat Wash, .375 x .738 x .063

3 710-3118 Bolt, Patch, 3/8-16 x 1.0 Lg

4 750-3009 SPACER (4) you will need these

5 710-3124 Bolt, Patch, 3/8-16 x 2.25 Lg

6 751-3110 Muffler you will need this

7 711-3006 Stud, 7/16-14 UNC-2A Thd you will need this

8 736-3086 Washer, External Lock, .45 X.75 x .03 Thk

9 703-2176 DUCTING-MUFFLER you will need this

10 736-3024 Washer, Flat, .47 x .750 x .0605 Thk

11 712-3019 Hex Nut, 7/16-14

12 703-2177 Duct, Engine

13 736-0142 Flat Washer, .281 x .50 x .063

14 710-3209 Bolt, Hex, M6-1.0 x 10 MM Lg GR5

15 710-0224 Hex Washer Screw, #10-16 x 0.500

As far as the drive shaft I would cut the shaft from the 2185 and slip it over the existing shaft for your 682 get the length adjusted to whatever it needs to be then drill a ¼” hole through it and put a spirol pin in it, maybe even two just to be safe. That way you don’t have to go out and buy an adapter to bolt the shaft to the back of the engine. The 2000 series drive couplers are pretty bullet proof and they don’t need any maintenance.

Sam Mac;
I may look into that later. I want to get it back together first. Is the replacement of carb all that is required for the upgrade?

Methos;
Using the 2185 harness was the original idea. I think Cubs & Boxrs did that on his ch repower. But I was wanting to use the 4.5" PTO pulley if I could. The KT17 PTO has 1 wire, & CH18 has 2. But I may go that way if I can't figure it out.

Yep the carb is all you need.

The PTO off the KT should work just fine but on a 2185 they switch the ground and on the 682 they switch the hot wire. Roland can hook you up with a wiring diagram to make life easy.

I'll get you a pic shortly of what I'm talking about as far as the drive shaft.

This is a 2000 series drive shaft that has been cut. The ID of it is 5/8” so most of the older Cub drive shafts will slip inside it. Makes for a nice easy way to adapt the newer engines to the older tractors at least at the engine end of the shaft.

Pretty face
 

:biggrin2:Sam U not just a pretty face ,U got more than cob webs twixed them ears!
:beerchug:

Earl

The best thing about the 2160, 2165 or 2185 is that they are great organ donors for the older Cubs. If your using a 2160 or 2165 the 1641 or 1440 base plate and muffler is the plug and play way to go. If the donor is a 2185 then you use a 1864 base and muffler. Only reason I like the base plates is because the bolt holes are in the right place so the PTO lines up as it should.

Well I got allot done today. Got motor plate drilled, motor bolted in. Used the KT17 spacers. Got drive shafts cut, pinned together and bolted on. Also got PTO bolted on. Replaced and hooked up throttle cable and choke cable. Put fire wall and fuel tank on to test fit. Noticed the air breather cover would not come off for replacement of element. Looks like I'll have to cut rear flange of cover off for it to work. I'm gonna look at the wiring after supper. Thought I'd post some pics. I really like looking at all of your pics.

Attachment 32727 Attachment 32725

Attachment 32726

Sam Mac;
You are the man. I missed your posts above. Been in basement all day. Thanks for all your help. I'll be looking for the muffler and shroud in diagram.
You also said it was easier to use the 682 wiring with a "few minor mods". Can you explain in simple terms, how to do this? I'm not real savvy with electrical.

You've made some nice progress! Thanks for the pics.

Looking at your pics it looks like the engine may be a little to far to the rear. The fire wall should clear the air cleaner. This is a pic of an 1882 that I put a CH in. If you look at the rear motor mount bolt it is almost even with the bolt that the mule drive hooks over. The CH is 1.9" shorter than the KT. So your drive shaft needs to be longer than what you had with the KT.

This how I would wire it. The wire that used to go to the points will now be used to power the fuel shutdown solenoid and a new relay for the mags. You will need a 12 volt relay that when it is powered it holds the contacts of the switched circuit open. The switched circuit will ground the Mags when you turn the key off so the wire from the mags will go to the switched side and the other connection will go to ground. You may be able to use the relay from the 2185, I think I have one, if I do I’ll check to see if the contacts are N.O. or N.C..
If you want to use the existing starter solenoid and wiring all you have to do is run the wire on the starter solenoid of the CH to the same terminal that the battery cable connects to on the starter. When you turn the key to start it will send power to the starter and pull in the solenoid at the same time. The other option is to remove the solenoid that is mounted on the tractor and connect the wire that ran from the key to the solenoid on the CH starter.
Alternator is the same.
PTO is the same
I would remove the oil pressure switch and install a gage to keep an eye on oil pressure.
This is a link to the wiring for the 682 + 782
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...der=asc&page=4

cfiles your repower is coming along nicely. You will not regret going with the ch18 motor. On my repower I used the 2185 wiring harness because it was in really good shape. I had to shorten a few wires and lenghten a few but they were all soldered and heat shrink tubing installed on the connections. I added a couple pilot lights on the dash for low oil pressure and battery. I am very pleased with how it turned out. I put dual exhaust on mine and also used a crossover pipe as well. Sounds bad azz. I get more compliments at plow days than you can imagine.

I checked the distance from the front of the tractor to the left front motor mount bolt on my 2284 for you, it’s 8.5”. Yours should be the same.

Sam Mac;
Ouch!! :bash2:
Man,you have a good eye. My measurement is 9". Not sure where I messed up. Was back and forth weather to use 2185 pto, maybe there. IDK. Measure twice, cut once. Yea right. Ha
Thanks for the heads up and all the info. I thought things were going to smooth. Gonna see what i can get done tonight.

Roland made up a wiring diagram for this conversion and sent it to both you and I. PM me with your e-mail address if you have any other questions, include your phone # if you want me to give you a call.

Sam, great info. I think I'm going to have to talk to you one of these days as the 2072 that I bought Sunday (has a ch18) also is not up to where I want.
The fuel shut off I think is not wired up and I want it to work.

cfiles, you are doing a heck of a job there!

Guys, Thanks for the kind comments. I'm looking forward to "mowing" with it in spring.
Got motor pulled back out to slot the motor plate holes. Haven't had much extra time last few days. Life gets in the way sometimes.

Roland; Thanks for your interest and help. I know you are the go to on these schematics. Hopefully I'll get running this weekend.

Finally got a chance to do a little work on the 682. Big thanks to Sam and Roland, I got all the wiring done finally. I also put an oil pressure gauge on (runs a little over 40PSI),moved hr gauge to side of column. Went for a little ride this AM. Took a few pics before pulling back in garage.

Attachment 33090

Got the back side of engine "sealed off", for cool air intake. Gonna do some cleaning, and try and do something about a muffler. Still lots to do, but its moving on its own power.ha
Charles

The Command looks great in the 682! Once the engines in my 782 and 1872 die, I want to put Commands in them.

The 682 is coming along Charles!
That is sure one sharp looking 682!:beerchug:

Glad you got it running. Looking good!:beerchug:

Charles the 682 looks great! Sam and Roland sure do come thru in a pinch.:beer2:

Been awhile since I gave an update and pics. Got the 682 put back together except muffler (just some straight pipes for now). Used it to pull a trailer i just about finished with around yard while doing some yard work yesterday. Thought would be great photo op with the 782. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Great looking 682 and 782!

A couple more pics. Also, this AM I was going to cut my elderly moms grass on river. Put my 44" deck on 682 and took it.
Some observations after using the command 18 (682) verses the KT17 (782). The 682 steers allot easier than the 782. I guess the lighter command helps that. Was cutting grass (weeds) taller than the hood in some places. I went slow and the motor never bogged down. And I think the command gets better MPG (?). Uses less gas. Really happy with the repower. :)

Thanks for the extra pics! I've really grown to like the red ones.

Nice pics and good looking cubs!:beer2:

Nice job cfiles. Thanks for the update.

That trailer looks pretty sweet behind the 682 . Were would a guy find one of those ? I'm looking for a larger trailer for my super cubs. :beerchug:

Thanks guys for all the kind words.
Bruce, trailer is an old Dilly trailer I turned into my own "Cub" trailer. The real ones are hard to come by around here. I have not been able to find much info on it though. I'm waiting on decals from Binder Books for it to be done. Thought I may start a thread on implements when decals are on it.

Awesome pics! POTW worthy.:beerchug: