IH 982 continued....
 

:Explode::Explode::HeadScratch:

I am still looking for some input on this issue....I have started another thread to perhaps make it easir for everyone?

I think your right, go with the sleeve hitch design for a couple reasons. 1) Part of it is already there, I just need to make/buy the bottom part and the pin. 2) Not too many 982's around have a sleeve hitch, if any. 3) I am going to have to agree, the sleeve hitch implements seem to pop up more often than the 3pth style. 4) I am still pretty sure I can find a decent plow and convert it into a sleeve hitch if needed.

:BB&YS:


I am still having some issues with the tractor surging. It started to act up again today. It ran fine first thing this morning, it fired right up, idled good, road smooth, no surging. I stopped it to do some yard work and load stuff into the trailer. I then go to on to start it, about 1 hour later - I had to choke it, which I thought was odd, but it fired up fine. Then it started to surge again - but it was very irratic. I tried to rev it up with the throttle, it increased engine speed some, then when I went to drive it forward it would surge a lot then slow then up and down in revs and did this all the way back to the garage? I stopped it there and pushed the throttle down to idle it before turning off - it shut itself off! I have tired to get it running correctly twice since then, but it keeps surging like it was. So - what is causing this? I took off the air filter and housing and looked at the govenor linkage. The rod coming from the carb is in the furthest hole away. The spring is in the middle hole at both ends. There does seem to be some play in the connecting rod from the arm to the carb. The cable doesn't seem to bind really, the spring streaches when I put the throttle at full.

So if I was to replace these parts (if they are all still available), do you think this would solve the surging issues? Or am I way out in left field here and not even looking at the correct things that may cause this?

Need some direction please......

A quick thought on your surging, might pay to clean up the carb or at least try adjusting it. And if it is dirt in the carb, check out your fuel system and tank for contamination .

It might be adjusted just a tad lean.

Can't help ya on the hitch, still trying to find a brinley adapter myself..

Hmmmm...thing is...the thing ran PERFECT the last dozen times I have used it since I got it a week ago? That is what is confusing??

:confused2.gif"

Any luck with your settings on your tractor Aj?? Didn't know if you had time to look at yours or not. I still haven't figured out what is up with mine? I priced out the releif valves yesterday.....$190.00 Canadian each! Holy crap!!

The parts guy suggested that I soak the old ones in a really fine oil to see if that will loosen them up inside and then put them back in and drive the tractor around......supposedly they have done that before and they seem to "pop" back to sealing like they should. #$&!!! What kind of idea is that? Perhaps I am missing something, but how do you get it to seal again if the o-rings are bad (assuming that is what is wrong with them)??

:Help:


I am thinking I should clean the carb anyway sometime between now and spring....it would likely do it good? (good luck on your search truckntran.....If I find a 2nd one I will let you know)!!

I recently had the surging problem come up after filling the tank with gas from a can that had been sitting about a month (Regular 87 octane). I used some PB Tuneup-in-a-can, according to the instructions on the can (a 5-second squirt in the carb) and added some Gunk carb and injector cleaner to a new can of premium gas (92 octane) and ran that through it. Fixed it right up.

When you do the carb. pay particular attention to the small holes in the needle valve and the passage ways above both the idle and main jets, should be open into the venturi area of the carb. I use an old guitar string, (hillbilly engineering) then compressed air to be sure they are open.

Now that you mention it....I did fill the gas tank before I started the tractor that day! But its weird.....I had filled the atv with the same gas can....it worked fine - or at least seemed to?? EErrrrrr!

Hey Oak, did you get your information from me regaurding the Onan manual?

Is it possible you poured a bit of water in with the gas? Take the fuel bowl off and if you see water in the bottom, dump it and clean it out well. It only takes a few minutes, and could easily eliminate a lot of potential problems.

Ever notice how the water sits by itself in the bottom of the bowl? It doesn't flow very well through main jets either. It also keeps the gasoline from flowing.

Mountain, I guess it was too large of a file. I need to check on how large I can receive. Thanks for your help. Does the manual have a number or who published it? Thanks.

it is put out by IH..... Blue ribbon Service...Chicago, IL I could mail it to you if you wish??

check valves
 

FWIW.
Prices for AUTOMATIC check valves vary greatly.
Us prices are:
--- From Cub cadet official web sight.: $195 + shipping
--- Deere offical web sight $101 + shipping
--- A fellow rebuilding yours on ebay $35.00 + 4.95 shipping.
---- And today I got a quote from my hydraulic suppier on valves built by
Sundstrand $52.02 + ups shipping.
this is for ONE check valve.
also my Hyd. supplier said he has the manual valves if i want them.

:bash2:

Well, I put some gas stablizer in the tank tonight, fired it up and let it run for maybe 6 or 8 minutes....still surging but I didn't expect it to clear up right away. How long do you think I would have to run it before it did clear up (if that is the problem)? I am thinking I should just start by changing the gas, draining the tank out completely and changing the filter.....put some good high test gas in it and see how it runs then. I don't want to tear appart the carb if it isn't needed. Kinda sucks.....worked great up until this pain that started! Oh well, will just take some time to :bigthink: will eventually get it figured out!?? I wish I could remember what station I bought the gas at won't be going back to give them my business....selling me crappy gas!!
:BB&YS:

That's not a bad price from the hydralic guy...did he give you a part number? Just wondering if the guy I know who is into hydralics would have a cheaper lead than a Cub dealer? I already inquired about a brand new one (x2) they are about $190.00 or so Canadian each. DARN! Expensive, but at least it wouldn't leak and I wouldn't worry about them - if they did, they would land back on the parts counter to get replaced free of charge.

Hmmmm.....but that is the least of my worries...I need to get rid of this surging problem...not really sure why it happend all of a sudden??? don't really want to have to buy new linkage and stuff for the govenor!??