hydraulic oil change 1250 questions
 

So I am at the point where I need to change the hydraulic oil in the 1250 I got a while back and currently have the filters (got a couple, figure I might be changing it again soon if it's really bad) and the hydraulic oil. I looked at the manuals for the Quietlines and the 1000/1200, and I noticed that on the quietlines there is no drain cap (where on the 1000/1200 there is) for the hydraulic oil. Do I drain the oil out of the filter when I take it off on the 1250? Or do I jack up the front end like I've read around here and possibly pour it out the filler cap?

Sorry if this is explained somewhere in the manual, but I couldn't find anything and figure this is probably a simple question for someone who has done it.

Also, on a side note, does anyone know if implements (hydraulic plow) from a 129 would fit the 1250? I think they are both WF, but just figured I'd ask.

Thanks again,

Briton

You remove the rear trans cover to drain the fluid. The hydros hold 2 gallons of fluid. You can use some break cleaner and lint free rags to clean out the housing once it is drained. You should be good to go for a few more years with the filter and fluid changed.

Implements for the WF's will fit your QL.

Thank you for answering both my questions so quickly DX3!

So you'll want to have a replacement gasket on hand for the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be prepared for just shy of 2 gallons as mentioned above. Large pans don't typically fit too well between the rear tires, so 2 smaller pans are sometimes the way to go.

Loosen all the cover bolts, but don't remove the top 2 or 3 until the very last. Loosen them up about halfway, then crack open the cover from the bottom. This will give you some control over the fluid that will come splashing out.

As an aside, if you suspect your axle seals are leaking at all, now is the time to replace them while you have the rear cover off.

I am not a mechanic (work as an network engineer, so pretty far from the mechanic trade other than I can follow diagrams and instructions) so I wouldn't know what to look for / know how to tell if my axle seals are leaking--is this something I can check visibly when I do the oil change?

Also, whereabouts can I get a replacement gasket for the rear cover (and the rear axle seals, if I need them). Is this something I can get a generic part for, or should I go to my cub dealer for them?

Thanks again for extrapolating further on the process!

the best place to buy your parts are with the vendors at the top of each page as i have had good luck with them.
Dan

Got a question in regards to the topic of this post--

There is still fluid in the pump and the lines when doing it this way, correct? Does the new fluid contaminate the old if it's still left in the pump? I think that I read somewhere that removal of ALL fluid, even in the pump, and trying to put it all back in is a pita to get the pump charged to work correctly.

Guess I'm not sure about the pump and the fluid that is (?) still left in it.

Not enough to even think about and what is still in the pump has been filtered so don't worry about it.

If I might summarize the conventional wisdom of the pros here:

1) it's hydro fluid (not motor oil) so apparently not a big problem with a little old stuff mixing with new stuff (unlike motor oil)
2) dump the entire rear-end and filter, have a beverage of your choice while you wait
for it to drain
3) clean out the rear end of any "goo" you see AND clean all gasket mating surfaces (rear-end and filter...I use plain old rubbing alcohol)
4) replace the rear-end cover with a new gasket (question for the pros here...dealer told me the silicone "form a gasket" was fine for the rear-plate).
5) replace the filter (with a light film of hydro on the gasket). Just a hint...popping that valley cover pan between the seat and steering wheel makes things easier for old guys like me)
6) get your wallet out and go find a Cub Dealer to buy 8 qts (question for the pros here...we live in JD Green land here...I assume Cub Cadet and IH used the same hydro and also assume JD uses the same...right or not???) Roland says you can buy bulk if you take clean containers.
7) get a funnel with an attached tube, open up the drain plug on the rear cover (I think it's a 3/8" square that works with a standard SAE socket extension). Start filling until you get a hair shy of over-fill (finger test).
8) clean and replace the plug, fire it up and run it through the motions a little bit. Pull the plug out again and top up if you lost any fluid in the process. Replace the plug.
9) Pros here say to simply change the filter periodically from there...you need about a qt of fluid when you do that.

ok pros!!! how'd I do for amatuer explaining the process???

Good write up from my newbie point of view. Under #4, when you refer to "form a gasket" are you actually saying you replace the rear gasket with silicone? Are these gaskets something my cub dealer would have handy or something most would have to order? If so I want to make sure I have all the parts before I start...generally don't like making runs to the hardware store/dealership half covered in oil.

A couple of thing s that have been suggested that I would like to reinforce: First, be sure you are using genuine CaseIH HyTran Ultra fluid. I buy mine from my local CaseIH agricultural dealer. Second, buy and use a quality filter. I like Fleetguard, but any of the listed filters are fine.

Here is a link to help you change your HyTran and have a bit of fun doing it. It is important to have a rear cover gasket from Cub Cadet or CaseIH, not try to make something out of silicone or Form-A-Gasket. http://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HytranChange.htm

This link talks about HyTran fluid: http://cubfaq.com/hytran.html

All of the filters listed in this link are good: http://cubfaq.com/HydroFilterX.html

Here is the part number for the cover plate gasket: IH-350837-R2

Good luck with your project. Please let us know how it turns out. I
hope you enjoy your 1250 as much as I enjoy mine!

Be well.


Brian Wittman

Thank you for that part number and also that write up of how to change the fluid, it definitely went over the whole process.

thanks for everyone's help, gonna get that gasket ordered at my cub/case dealer and then get this part of the project over with!

Never use any kind of silicone for a gasket. Silicone's tendency to crumble at the edges and send chunks into oil/hydro pumps make it a terrible alternative to the OEM gasket. More active Cub dealers may have the gasket on hand, but be prepared to order it.

Go to PartsTree.com and plug in your make/model for parts blowups and numbers. Then take those numbers and hit the shops, local or on the net. As mentioned above, OCC sponsors are an excellent source for this kind of stuff.

Also, I agree with the above post about only using CASE/IH Hytran ultra. If you have a CASE dealer in your area, go there for your hydro fluid. It will run cheaper than a Cub Cadet dealer.

thanks...I think my IH/CC dealer must have been out of the gaskets hence his advice to use the "tube" (my used machine had it and I've never seen an issue with it other than trying to clean it off when I did the full drain).

as for Hytran...like I said, we are "JD Green" all around me (family farms typically pick a brand and stick to it and the neighbors buy the used stuff and get married to the brand and it goes on and on such that a brand gets a local monopoly)...

Case/IH is hours away (and you'll find very little "Green" there). I guess my question is whether JD's version of hydro is the same as IH/Case...the older tractors were essentially the same other than color.

I don't agree with "Gasket in a Tube." If a little knob of that stuff gets tangled up in your hydro, you will be splitting the tractor and looking for a good used hydro assembly. It is a good thing they come for sale occasionally, although the freight might be a bit spendy. Even if you have to order that gasket from the sponsors or a CaseIH dealer, it is worth the wait. You won't wreck your hydro while waiting for parts. They don't take that long to get. I am not sure about this, but that gasket could be the same part as the cover gasket for a Farmall Cub.

As for CaseIH Hy-Tran vs. John Deere Hy-Gard; all I want to say is that green paint is very expensive. What has been proven is that Hy-Tran works.

Good luck. Be well.

Yeah, my dealer had it in stock for $8. I didn't have time to go grab it today, but am planning to grab it tomorrow and possibly get this done at some point in the evening.