127 PTO Clutch Removal - what am I missing???
 

I've been trying to remove the front PTO clutch from the Kohler K301 on my 127. I've removed all of the setscrews (yes, even the setscrews under the setscrews) and I've been both spraying PB-Blaster and dripping ATF into the setscrew holes and around the crankshaft, and it still won't budge. Is there a bolt going into the end of the crankshaft holding the clutch on? I'm also unable to remove the clutch button (I thought they were just a press fit), so I can't see if there is a bolt or not. The service manual only mentions the setscrews, and makes no reference to a bolt. I've been using a prybar, prying the hub of the clutch against the block, but won't budge.

What's the trick to remove these clutches?

I had a stubborn time with my 104... I had to get a torch and heat the clutch until all the grease was catching on fire and the main PTO housing was nice and red before it expanded enough to come off of the bearing after removing all 6 set screws... the bearing is locked in by a collar in there (at least it is on a 104) I also took a 2x4 and hit the PTO on the sides using a sledge hammer while rotating it. I have never been a fan of prying anything. :beerchug:

Oh and if u choose the torch... you may want a fire extinguisher handy... There is a lot of grease that accumulates on the engine... Good tip!! Lol

Check out the 'PTO clutch puller' in the 'tools' section of my website. That and a slide hammer has always worked for me, even on the most rusted, stubborn clutches. I'm not a fan of heating stuff like that with torch. You won't be happy if you warp the clutch with the torch.

127 PTO Clutch Removal - what am I missing???
 

Thank you, Gentlemen. I had briefly considered using heat, but since I can't easily direct the heat just to the clutch hub, I haven't tried it. Please explain in greater detail how the clutch button is removed. I've tried prying it off, but no luck. Matt, your puller seems like the way to go; I've got both the angle iron and a slide hammer needed for this. I won't be able to get to this again until the weekend, but I'll let you know how I make out.

Thanks again.

I've gotten mine off before with a hammer and a piece of wood- in this case it was a left over hammer handle, gently tapping and then rotating the engine, tapping again, etc.

Youtube, the new school for DIY'ers. :biggrin2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O4FE1tE_AM

If you read the service manual a little further, it'll tell you how to remove the center button in the clutch ;)

Hint: It doesn't come out until after the clutch is removed from the tractor...

So one engine I have has the inner set screw with, as far as I can tell, the hex recess part of the fastener broken off flush.

Since I'm fresh out of right angle drill bits I'm at a loss as to what to do next (other than put it under the bench, which is where it is now)

John

Hope this is coming along better.
I see you have a service manual, great. I have to mention that there are two set screws in each hole. I assume you knew that? These do come off hard sometimes seem to get rusted to the bearing outer race. A lot of them haven't been off in 20+ years. Blaster is good. I had a tough time with the last one I did and had to destroy it to get it off and then buy a good used clutch assembly
Regards,
Chris

gentle tapping and leverage will pop it free..usually.,if you have all the allen screws out..thats it...stay with it...

127 PTO Clutch Removal - what am I missing???
 

Well, with Hurricane Sandy barreling towards us here in New Jersey, this weekend was spent outside cleaning up, putting things away, trying everything else down and making sure the chainsaw was ready to go. In a perverse way, I often enjoy extremes of weather, but I have to admit that this one has me concerned. I didn't have a chance to try Matt's clutch puller tool, but there's always next weekend.

Matt, I read more on the PTO clutch in the service manual, but it didn't jump out at me where it explained how to remove the clutch button. You hinted that it doesn't come out until after the clutch is removed from the tractor. The entire engine is sitting on the bench right now; I'd say that qualifies as "being out of the tractor", wouldn't you? ;) Would you (or anyone else) mind giving me a little more detail on how to remove this?

Thanks.

Make sure you have all the set screws removed from the PTO. The set screws tighten behind the race, not to the race. If you still have a setscrew in a hole, you will not remove the PTO. Since the engine is on the bench, you can look into each hole and see if there is one setscrew left in place.

If they have all been removed, then the PTO may be rusted to the bearing race. I recommend that you use PB Blaster or liquid wrench sprayed liberally in the center of the PTO behind the center button. There is a snap ring that prevents the PTO from going too far back on the crank shaft. You will need to get PB Blaster behind this snap ring. Let it sit for a couple of hours or days. Then, tap (lightly) the front of the PTO with a hammer against a piece of wood held against the PTO. This may give the PTO some movement and break the rust which may be holding it on.

You must make sure that there are no set screws left in the holes!!!

When the PTO is removed from the shaft, then you can take the nuts and jam nuts off the back of the PTO. Then you can take it apart and clean it up and rebuild it if necessary.

The bearing is your next problem. The locking collar has one or two set screws (of a different size than the PTO set screws, usually). Take them out and take a punch into the empty partially drilled hole to drive the collar clockwise that holds the collar (and bearing) to the crank. The collar and bearing are in a cam configuration, turning the collar the wrong way locks the bearing tighter to the shaft! You will see when it loosens up. Then try to remove the bearing from the crank. This can be when the fun starts! Good luck!