Need Help With steering Wheel Removal
 

I hope ya'll are enjoying the pics I just posted of the 1650 I have been rebuilding as a working tractor. Engine is rebuilt, front axle and spindles replaced and strengthened, hydro is serviced. Now I want to remove the steering wheel to install a bushing to take the slight wobble out of the steering tube, also want to remove the dash tower to install a different hour meter and maybe a tach. Please guys, tell me the best way to remove a steering wheel that has been on since 1975. Thank you.
Van

Hey Van

Sawzall, Cutting torch and Dynamite all come to mind but don't think that's what you had in mind. Power blaster on the nut, impact wrench to get the nut off. Puller to pull the wheel off. If that won't work try the Dynamite.

Mac

Whatever you do, DO NOT HAMMER ON THE END OF THE SHAFT OR EVEN ON THE NUT!

I actually got mine off using a gear puller, but you have to be very careful not to deform the plastic, as that's all there is to pull against. Use lots of PB Blaster!

Here's a good method:
http://cubfaq.com/steeringremove.html

I used the "pounding nut"/knees method in your link. It didn't require much effort.

Thank you guys. I guess it time to break out the PB Blaster!!!
.........or try to find some dynamite............... ;)

probably wise...it's been on there a long time (as was mine). I tried a gear puller but there really isn't much to grab and the plastic didn't appreciate it much. with the "pounding nut" in place and knees exerting the upward pressue, it only took a few light taps to get it started.

Spray it with some PB blaster, and let it sit.

then, take the nut off, get a pneumatic air hammer - just put in a flat bit, or a tipped one that will fit in the hole of the steering shaft. Hit it with the air hammer, and then pull up on the wheel. Mine came off nice and easy, and the nut was pretty rusted since it didn't have the cover.

This oak block has always worked for me...

Attachment 29134

the CC nut comes off pretty easy (don't want to wreck that one). the nut described in the procedure you have to buy (was hard to find in my little corner of the world) but it worked. I have an impact hammer but tried the regular hammer first after some liquid wrench (my preference!). LIGHT taps so as not to damage the worm gear on the bottom of the shaft...I was expecting a struggle but it wasn't that way at all.

you have a true wheel puller...most of us need something like that once in our lives! did you insert any bushings where the bolts hit the wood or are cranking on wood?

and I'll have to add that the QL series have a lot of stuff on the top of the tower (throttle, hydro, PTO switch). Dunno if something like that block would work.

All of those things can be removed to gain access. There are fender washers behind the nuts. As for the puller, it's cheaper than buying another wheel and box if you ruin either by some other means. You'll also find that puller is very useful. I use mine frequently.

Look at the dash.

Wow, thank you everybody. Matt G, big thanks to you for showing me your wheel puller. I have everything but the Oak block of wood but thats no problem to get my hands on. I've got plenty of PB Blaster in the shop. It's good stuff. I had to use it this year to pull a flywheel off an old Onan 20hp twin. You guys are great, and have really been a big help!
OK, now where did I put that Dynamite??? ;)

Make sure to let the blaster have some time to work.....

It's not always fast, but it IS relentless.

John

When I put my steering wheel back on after rebuilding the steering column and sector, I used some anti-sieze grease on the splines; both on the steering wheel and worm shaft. I think that stuff saves a lot of problems if, for some reason, it would need to be removed again.

This works for me all the time