64-100
 

Well, wanted to put up the resto pics of my 100. It took all summer, but was worth the effort. I bought it off craigslist a couple years ago from the original owner who had lost interest in it. All four tires were flat, the battery cables were hooked to the leads a$$ backwards, the deck and mule were half scattered between the barn and shed, and there was no seat.
We tore the machine down to nothing, with the exception of the rear-end and engine block. After putting two seasons of heavy grass mowing, trailer towing, and performing every other "crap" job on the property, it burns no oil- does not smoke- has plenty of power- and only missed a little upon throttle adjustments.
The miss ended up being a long overdue valve adjustment and purrs like a kitten since. The rear-end was opened up and inspected, fluid looked good, no metal shavings, also good to go. So a fluid change, and stainless bolts was all she got. Two coats of metal etching primer, and a couple coats of Majic implement paint and done. The engine block was primed with high temp primer and high temp gloss black. All other parts/pieces were sand blasted, primed in powder coating, then finish powder coated. The wiring harness looked good, and probably had been replaced over the years.
Small parts that would not survive the oven, like the original ignition switch, and headlight bezels were wire wheeled. The seat is original equipment from another machine bought off the list. Tires are Carlisle. The new parts incorporated in the build were far more than anticipated, but worth the money.
Theres no creeper, hydraulics, or pto, but I'm always craigslisting it up, so who knows. Right now I'm doing the mower deck and a 36'' snowblower. I'll post up some pics of that too when I get a further along.

getting parts back from powder coating is kind of cool. Everythings dry, so assembly can begin right away. While parts were out, I did the rear-end, then engine block, and carb rebuild.

The parts look really nice powder coated. I would lose the powder coating off the head unless it's going to be a trailer queen. That powder coated head will hold in way to much heat. Probably to the point of overheating the engine. Just my 2cents.

All the nuts/bolts/washers were replaced with stainless steel.

Heres a few more.......

Cubs/Boxrs, she's no trailer queen, we use the heck out of it. So far, the heads holding up great, some of my buddies run the powder coated head on they're 4 wheelers, all two stroke, seems to be holding. We'll be keeping an eye on it for sure.
The engine assembly pics:

Looks Great! Hope to be at that stage in 6 months, but i don't think my handywork will look as nice. You may want to keep in mind stainless is about the equivalent hardness of Grade 2.

Rick

Sheet metal:

Rick147, most of the bolts are non load bearing. More of a shear concern than a break off. Not sure if the bolts I took out were any harder than grade 2 or 3. All were stamped IH

Sorry about upside down pics:bigthink:

The finished machine:

Looks great! I love the wheel weights and the wide front wheels.

My neck hurts. But it looks nice.

that is a thing of beauty... i could only hope and pray my 102 turns out half as nice.that is some great work right there!

Outstanding!!

Very nice! Looks great! :bigeyes:

Excellent job on your 100!

Looks Awsome !

Great Job!:beerchug:

Like everyone has said, "That is a thing of beauty". Do you mind if I ask if the powder coating was expensive? Did you prep the parts before you took them to the place that does the coating? And also being in Michigan myself I wondered if you could tell me where you had it done?
As far as using stainless bolts, I definitely like the looks of them. It's too bad someone doesn't sell the IH marked bolts in stainless.
You did a great job on your restoration, I'm sure you will enjoy it for many years to come.:biggrin2:
CaptMax
:American Flag 1:

Great looking cub.:beerchug:

very nice resto it looks great:beerchug:

Thanks for all the comments! I'm real proud of her.
Well Capt, I could've painted it three or four times for what the powder cost. All together I spent about 1100 bucks for sandblasting and powder coating. Total restoration, with new tires and all, about 17.
Most of the parts I blasted myself in a small benchtop cabinet. The larger pieces, like the frame, seat, wheels, hood, and weights I sent out.
FYI: Sandblasting is a JOB. I bought 10 bags of sand at 7 bucks a bag, and spent 30 in fuel for the compressor (you need a gas or very large compressor) and about 4 solid 8 hour days blasting. I will Not do it again, its Much easier to send it out and pay the 1-3 hundred bucks.
I'm in SE Mi, near Monroe and Toledo. I had a local company called Salenbien Welding Services out of Dundee do the deed. Drop your stuff off, and a couple days later, pick it up done. They have every color you can imagine on hand, and if they dont have it (they didnt have the white) they can get it in a couple days from PPG. The shop is Top notch, as is service.
Another point of interest is the cost of the powder itself. I've read some posts on here where it was pretty cheap to buy the stuff. Not the case here, I paid $85 for the white, for a 5lb sample bag. If you, as the consumer, call PPG and request a sample bag, you May get it for free the first time. It all depends on how you present yourself on the phone. For example, if you were to say you were manufacturing something, like trailer hitches for example, and had a customer wanting this yellow, but you want to shoot some sample boards first, before you order a quantity, they might just send it to you for nothing. I did not get that lucky this time, they already had my number from a Harley frame I had done a few months back. I DID get that powder for free!! BTW- 5 lbs will do the white, but not the yellow. And 5lbs will do a Harley soft tail frame too. :beer2:
I'll put up the deck and snowblower when completed. I tend to get "involved" when i do a project, so no pics of progress, sorry. I'll upload them all from my camera at the end.
I love my little 100 and cant wait to do another one. It will drag the new one (GTX2100) around the yard, outrun it in a dragrace, and outwork it any day. My neighbor has a JD x500- I keep challenging him to a pull-off, but he wants No part of it. LOL coward!

Thanks for the reply madmike. I figured it wasn't cheap, but then again neither is a quality paint job. I have sandblasted a 102 Cub before and your right, it is labor intensive. I have a local shop near me that does do powder coating. I may have to contact them to see what they will charge, I may get a deal as I lined their sandblasting room with sheet metal for them. As Tractor Supply no longer carries the Valspar brand paint I will likely end up using a quality automotive paint with hardener and have a friend who paints cars for a living do it. I can only hope it comes out near as nice as yours. Even with your investment in the powder coating you are much better off than buying a new one. I guess you already know that though. Thank-you again for all the pictures, your restoration is inspiring me to re-do mine as it wasn't up to my standards as I bought it. At least I have a solid tractor to start with and it is mostly complete except for some small details. Nice to hear your neighbor is smart too, he doesn't want a piece of that Cub!:biggrin2:
Best of luck on your new tractor as well Mike, let us know how it pans out.
CaptMax

the next time you sandblast a machine, you might want to talk to your local powder coaters and see if there is a "Burn-Off" shop in the area and have them burn it off before you sand blast. When you "burn" one off, it removes all the paint and all the grease and oil. From talking to some powder coating shops, they say you don't really save any money, but it talks a lot less labor to prep and coat the parts. When you don't have to grind on the parts so bad with a sandblaster, it leaves a lot less pitting, making it easier to get a nice finish.

AJ

They got the ovens to do it. Im not sure what grit sand they used, but No pitting, it looks like an automotive finish. She had some surface rust on the parts too, I figured if I was sending Some parts to get blasted, Might as well have them do all the large pieces.
I might try the cook on the snow blower, its in pretty decent shape, hardly any rust.

100
 

madmike, beautiful job on your 100. I think most of the IH marked hardware is grade 5 . Were the IH bolt heads rusted beyond hope? The stainless does look good though. Have fun, Chris:clap:

The IH marked bolts were grade five and the head bolts were grade 8.

Sweet restore! Love the look of powder coat!:beer2:

after a while of some heavy use, I have had to replace the rear-end bolts with grade 8s. The stainless stretched, and the gasket began to leak. The grade 8s torqued down, and stopped the leaking, so it stays together for now. The only place I've had the problem is on the rear-end, all others are holding well. Thought I'd share for those considering a full stainless hardware resto.

Thats one worth looking up to, fine job! That starter/gen looks great! Anyone who takes the time to help out these tractors does a fine job,..... keep them running!