New to us 1450 w/44A and tiller
 

New member with newly purchased 1450. The deck is a 44A. I haven't found a tag for the tiller so I don't know what model it is. Anyway I better get some pics up before I get banned.

Nice find on the 1450! Congrats.
Looks like a model 2 tiller. I also see the 1450 has the factory armrests. Great find!:beerchug:

I agree with Josh! Sweet setup! Your going to love how the tiller works!

Thanks, red56turbo. I didn't know the armrests were a factory item.

There weren't any belts for the tiller when we picked it up so we need to get new one's. Do you use the same mule drive for both the mower and tiller? It sorta looks like the large pulley on the tiller has been changed. Does it look original to you guy's? What is the diameter of the original?

Some of the things I've found since we picked this up last saturday. The front Iso bolts were put in so they interfered with the drive latch. The rubber tube in the air cleaner was backwards and there wasn't a filter. The hydro fluid level was down about 1.5 qts. The tab on the hydro drive/release lever is broken. And the factory exhaust and shield have been removed.

Congrats on your 1450 and attachments!

You can still get the belts the long belt you need is IH-61959-C1. The 38/42 mule drive will work without mods. If you mod the mule drive for the tiller it will mess up the mule drive for the deck. What size deck do you have? That's a new pulley. It looks to be about the right size. I'll try and measure mine for you.

The deck is a 44A. Here is the tractor tag also.

The armrests are hard to find. I just finally found a set for the first time and threw them on the 982.

The muffler is a common issue for the 1450 as is the muffler box. Looks like someone just saved some money when it all broke. You'd be worth the money buying all the right stuff for it again if you're going to keep it.

The motor mount bolts are just in upside down. I'd swap them quick and be done with it before the mule accidentally falls off and mash a finger good. Also, you're better off just getting a different mule drive with straight pulleys so you never have to adapt anything to switch between the deck and tiller. I sold all of my extra mule drives but someone on here has one I'm sure

The tab for the hydro release also breaks commonly. They can be bought new still. Heck, I might even have one here still. Shoot me an email if you really need one.

I think that covered a lot of it.

And WAY too tight...there should only be 1-2 threads showing through the nut. It might be too late to save those if they've been like that for any length of time.

Maybe that's why everything shake's and rattle's so much. The mounts look like new so I'll try backing them off a little. The PO said the engine had just been rebuilt when he bought it so the mount's must have been changed then. Thanks for the info and keep it coming, I've got alot to learn about these tractor's.
:Thanks:, cjet69

Where is a good place to get the exhaust and shield? It need's the lower grille screen too. The mule was popping loose which is what led me to the problem. Is there a pic of the difference between the mule drive's? Do you just modify a spare or are they made that way?

great find on the 1450 cjet69 . good to see someone else from wa. That I
was all alone! Great bunch of guys here with good knowledge and experience.

The mule drives from the older style mower decks had straight pulleys. The newer style mule drives had angled pulleys since the pulley on the newer decks (like your 44a) is offset. You need the older style with straight pulleys as the angled pulleys will chew the belt in no time. I used to have some of those and all the muffler stuff but have been on a cleaning spree and sold it all. Quickest option is emailing a site sponsor at the top or throwing a "Want Ad" in the wanted section of the classifieds here.

I built a whole second mule drive with extra parts with straight pulleys for my tiller so I can just swap the mule drives. You can actually get away with buying the straight pulley bars and brackets that go inside the mule drives on some models but that's a pain to swap. I'd buy a second mule drive for older style decks and be done with it.

I had a set of motor mounts like that. New but tightened way down. They wouldn't loosen up so I just left them way tight and the tractor doesn't shake much. It's only a 10hp 1000 though.

Try a want ad in the wanted section of the site or one of our great site sponser listed at the top of every page.

The 44-50 pulleys are at an angle and the 38/42 pulleys are straight back (you want the 38/42 mule drive). I tried using a 44-50 mule drive and smoked my new $60 belt.:bash2: Never again!

Love the PO mod for the exhaust. I'm gonna save that image for future Quiet Line disasters if I need to work up an exhaust system in a pinch... Congrats on the WA state find... they must be few and far between out there...

Thanks guys, When I get the rest of the tractor ready I will look for the 38/42 mule drive. I'm not familiar with any of the Cub Cadet line so you may have to beat some of this info into my head.:bash: :ROTF1: After driving this a little and trying the mower I think I need to address the hydro. It won't hold a steady speed, always slowing down or speeding up. I notice it most on bumpy or uneven ground at slow speeds when trying to mow. I've looked at some of the threads on here that address this problem and will be taking alot of pics and asking for alot of advise when I get to it. :Thanks: again for your help and knowlege. cjet69

oofda i bet that 14 horse sounds interesting with that pepper pot muffler....

I did shoot a vid of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLDI_Q-OJ18

Anyone have a video of a stock one running? Would like to here what they should sound like.

The last long belt I bought for my tiller was around $85 IIRC. That was about 4 years ago and through an IH/Cub Cadet dealer. :bash2:
Good thing is it still looks brand new, even after 4 seasons. :beerchug:

Cool vid! Your 1450 runs good!

The PO may have been a plummer. :ROTF1::ROTF1:

Better than a straight pipe, but not by much.

On these mule drives, if I find one that has the angled pulley's can I just straighten them? Would you leave the spring tensioner or replace it with a bolt type tightener?

Noticed some Hytran leaking around the left middle bolt on the rear diff cover. After reading prskier17's thread on his 1650. I wonder if mine suffers from the same broken piece around the bolt hole. Hopefully its just a bad gasket. I guess I will find out when I change the Hytran. Sounds like this is not uncommon on these tractor's. Anyone know what causes it?

Usually over tightening or using bolts that bolts that are to long.

I took the 1450 back to the orchard and did some mowing. Work's pretty good. Lot's of power and the old Kohler really smoothed out at the higher throttle setting. I didn't get any pic's with the tractor, but here is the orchard and the roadway thru the field to it.

Great pics! Your 1450 did a great job.

I'd be willing to bet those are 2.5" long bolts, so you can't really tell how tight they are by
the pic. The OEM bolt length on those ISO's was 2.25", and you can never find those at the local hardware store. I bought my 2.25's online.

Thanks CC1650Dave, I'll check the bolt length next time I work on it.

I made a deal on a used muffler and duct assy today. The duct is missing the top, but that should be easy to build. He thru in the aluminum piece that bolts on the engine, says its broken. Now I need to find an exhaust elbow or make one.

your mowing pics look great! I agree- those old Kohlers really like to work and seem to run "right" when under load.

Picked up a few parts for the 1450. Got a used muffler and air duct, just missing the top which should be easy to make. The aluminum piece is broken, not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I'm waiting to here on an exhaust elbow. I set the new muffler over the existing pipe and it helps quiet it down over the pepper pot muffler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbIfAAMRPGU

I welded and painted the lower air duct so its ready to install once I get an elbow and the aluminum piece repaired and installed.

Sounds better with the stock muffler! Great video to show us how well it works.:beerchug:

Nice ride. I've got a 1450 with a tiller on it. Lots of power for the garden. You definitely want a separate mule drive with the straight pulleys. I just bought an extended sleeve hitch from Jeff for a hiller and cultivator as well so I don't have to remove the rear PTO for Brinly compatibles.

The stock muffler definitely sounds better. Thanks for sharing your vid.

I let the 1450 sit on some concrete for a week. It has leaked quite a bit of Hytran. Wonder what I will find when I open it up.

Before you open it up try and locate the leak you might be luckey and have to tighten the tube.

It looks like its leaking around the left center bolt on the rear cover.

I bead blasted and then painted the new(used) muffler with some High Heat black. Also bought some lug bolts off ebay. There were only 2 lug bolts on one side and 3 on the other when we picked it up. I'm waiting to here back on an exhaust elbow so I can get these exhaust parts installed.