Best price on Quietline mounts?
 

Finally have some time to get into both of my 1450s, and they both need motor mounts (of course).

Been looking around the internet, and it looks like it is pretty common to find the new style OEM mounts for ~ $20 a corner.

Just wanted to check in and see if anyone has a source for a little better price (yeah, I am cheap).

Don't want to play roulette with the moog mounts, as I really hate doing something more than once (probably one of top 5 pet peeves).

Thanks in advance :)

You could save a little money by using all of your top mounts from both tractors on one tractor. Then get a new set for the other

Thanks David for the tip!

I have pulled the engine, cradle & mounts out of one 1450, and the top ones don't really seem to get worked at all, while the bottoms are pancakes...

Didn't know the original mounts were the same top & bottom (mine were so mangled you couldn't really compare).

I have seem the pics of the "new" mounts, and those don't seem the same top & bottom. Correct?

Yeah the old ones can go on top or bottom. I used my top set and four more from another tractor last year when i did my mounts on my 1200. The new ones are shaped different. I dont think you can swap them top to bottom.

The bottom and tops are not the same.

Don't forget to do the ISO Mount update. Weld the cross brace and your mounts will last a lot longer and you will not damage your mounting bolts int he pan...hopefully they are not already damaged.

I just did my second one in a week!!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...010778x800.jpg

I think that little bar is the most valuable upgrade you can do to a QL!! :bigeyes:

When I unbolted the engine before I loosened the ISO mounts, the 2 bars just flopped down away from the engine!! :bigthink:

Who knows what kind of stress is on those 4 bolts holding the engine!!

Already welded one up and painted it :biggrin2:

List still left on that tractor:

- Pull column & rebuild with bearing upgrades (once I get the damn steering wheel off
- Pinch the front axle pivot tight (sloppy right now). Have a bolt and nut, and will bend it back slooooooowly
- Fab new tubing tie rods & drag links & install with heim ends
- Install axle & new front tubed tires
- Replace plastic hydro fan (would love to do U-joint upgrade, but can't find any reasonable parts to do upgrade) :(
- Drop engine back in, fluids, drop tiller on it, and run it (got to get ground tilled for the wifey)

Then, I can basically do the same to the other 1450 (along with upgrading wiring as I did on the first one).

I have had the very same question lately, as I am about to bring a new used Cub Cadet 1250. I am new to the Cub Cadet world too, and would rather PLAY with the Cub Cadet than work on it. That being said, it looks like CC Specialties has a set of motor mounts that have worked well for others without the cost of the OEM part. I have surfed the net as well, looking for the answer, and this is the best price I have found.

I live in Minnesota, too. Now I want a 104, or similar gear drive machine. I am enjoying not taking my medication.

I wasn't happy with the MOOG mounts.:bash2: Went out paid for the cc ISO mounts and wasted time and $ on the MOOG mounts. I spent $25 more then the cc ISO mounts and twice the time and work.:TwoCents:

Time will tell, but,I went with the MOOG K5342 mounts for my 1000

It cost $10 for the 2 boxes at O'Rielly's.

The engine is in very nicely.

The mounts are polyurethane which should resist oil better.

These tractors are old, they are gonna leak oil, they need something more oil resistant than rubber.

If I had a brand new K301 going in a tractor, I would consider Cub Cadet mounts, otherwise, I need a longer life material.

If Cub Cadet gives me tha same material that was in the 1974 tractor, I would expect to get 2 years live out of them.

We each get our opinion, mine is MOOG.

IH did not do everything perfect, or I would not have had to deal with this.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...211024x909.jpg

Hey you guys from Minnesota.... I live in Andover. Anybody nearby??? It'd be fun to see some other Cubs if you're close. I just got a 1650. I pulled the engine yesterday and got some new motor mounts from Patton Acres.

The time and work needed to be done are the same.:TwoCents:

Now, I am really confused. I understand about OEM parts. In principle, I generally use OEM when I am repairing or replacing something.

But here is my thing. I bought that tractor to drive up and down the street, run it in parades, put on display at shows and to pull a small garden trailer to help tend the flower beds around the house. I am not intending to regularly mow with it, nor am I going to get a plow, disk, digger, tiller or other farm-type equipment. I suppose it will mow occasionally, but that is about as hard as it will work. Weight should increase somewhat with the added amount of polish coats that will be applied to the machine.

So, what do I do? The argument to use OEM parts is a strong one, and always will be with whatever repair is being accomplished. But occasionally, aftermarket parts are better, more effective and more economical. I like the arguement for the oil resistant mounts. It makes sense to me. So does OEM at twice the cost. I am really confused, and I don't know anything about what I am doing. :bigthink:

I have to be crazy, and I am enjoying being off my medication.

In this particular case, none of those turn out to be true. These chassis mounts, while cheap, are not meant for this application, and consequently don't do a good job of doing what the OEM mounts are designed to do: damp out the engine's vibration. The new OEM mounts, while expensive, do a great job of this at wide-open throttle; the 1650 I had was nearly as smooth as my 782 at full throttle. Fix your tractor's oil leaks and you won't need to worry about oil resistance.

And yes, I have done this both ways so I can make the comparison. I put new OEM mounts in a 1650 and was pleased. I put the chassis mounts in my loader 682 w/ K321 because I'm not sure that engine is more than temporary in there. It shakes (visibly) and worse than any other tractor I've had, and nearly as bad as the 1650 did when I got it and its mounts were bad.

prskier17 -

I am from Moorhead. I do get to Champlin a couple of times each year to have lunch with a long-time friend.

I am in Rush City (between Pine City & North Branch on 35)