CC 1200 (1600) Project
 

Well, as some of you might have saw...I have been looking for a WF roller, to put a freshly rebuilt .020 over K341 in, out of my 1650.


I was planning on fixing the 1650 that it came out of...but got looking at some of the places where the motor mounts have put holes in the frame (wear over time) and decided to get a different frame, and to get away from the ISO mounts.


Joe (Jluster) and I have decided to do some trading, and tomorrow I am getting his 109 with a blown motor. My plan is to put the K341 in it.....with a 3 speed/clutch from a 124. Then I will call it a 168... :beer2:







Will try to get some pictures tomorrow when Joe gets here. :beerchug:

Sounds like a good plan.You will have to change the brake lever on the brake pedal rockshaft from a gear drive also.

I wonder if the clutch out of a 1806 was much different than the 1x8's. :bigthink:

My first Cub Cadet was a "148" built from a 86, and I tried everything except a new spring to keep that clutch hooked up!!

The clutch would just slip in third gear. Very disappointing build.

I did ask a lot of that tractor though,,,

It may have been due to my fluid filled tires, lots of inertia to overcome.

My QL 1000 will do more than the 148 would do.

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...009640x426.jpg

Heavier spring for the clutch might also not be a bad idea with the extra horsepower, sounds like a cool project!

Thanks! I suspect it will be mean with a 12" plow!



I have 3 bare wide frames that were gear drives. I can get the lever from one of them.





Interesting...maybe a 1806/582, or even a pulling spring. :bigthink:





Will defiantly have to look into putting a heavier spring in it. :beerchug: And thanks! Always have thought it would be cool to try it! :ThumbsUp:

Maybe Dale (Merk) will chime in. He once told me about using a cultivator spring. :beerchug:

Here's the medium-duty spring Chris Westfall sells..... http://www.cubclassics.com/BLUE%20CLUTCH%20SPRING.JPG

The 1806 and 582 still use the same clutch as the WFs, essentially, and the spring is not strong enough to put 14+ hp to the ground, IMO. Get a stronger spring and it'll be fine. I have the red spring in my 582, and I use a locking collar behind it instead of the roll pin so I can adjust it. I have it compressed 3/4" instead of 1", giving me about 650 lbs instead of the stock 250-300 lbs, and it's not noticeably harder to push the clutch in. That's what I'd recommend.

Would the blue medium-duty spring from Chris (600lbs I think) do it?



And, just got to thinking...is a clutch/drive shaft from a NF (124) different? :bigthink:

I was planning on putting that blue spring in my 108 when I put the 14 in it. Id like to know some feedback on it as well

As far as the 168 project goes, this is gunna be fricken awesome :beer2:

Thanks! :beerchug:



Looks like I am going to need a different clutch, though. So if anyone has a wide frame clutch, let me know. :ThumbsUp:

Got the 109 today...here's some pictures! :beerchug:

Interesting headlights Nice find!

Looks like a great project. That will keep you busy for a while and with the weather, inside work is all you can get done recently. Can't wait to see your after pics!! Keep us posted mrcubcadet!

Cub Cadet 123

Congrats Conner!:beer2:

Thanks guys! Hope to get the motor and maybe the trans/drive line out tomorrow...now I just need a clutch. :bigthink:

Working that right now for you!

Sounds good...I will call you later today.

Got the motor out, and went ahead and took the pan off to find this:





Fortunately, the bore, piston, and crank look ok. Going to try to get this one running. :beerchug:

With help from Joe...found this 1200 roller! :beerchug:




Since all I would need to do is put a bigger clutch spring on, and drop the K341 in...I may use this roller instead of the 109. Then get the 109's K241 going, and sell it, eventually. :bigthink: This would be, in turn, a 1600. :beerchug:

So, have decided to use the 1200 Joe found. Is really nice, and the starter-type K341 would look more original in it. Getting my blue clutch spring spring ordered tonight! :beerchug: Everyone think it will be heavy enough?


And since I'm not using the 109, it will be kept original...and sold with a 38" mower once I get it running. :beerchug: Here's some pictures of the 109's K241...after cleaning up the crank, and honing the rust on the bore. :beerchug:

Looking good mrcubcadet! like the sounds of a 1600. I love my 1200 that i recently finished with a .30 over 12. Very comfortable for operating especailly when i get the hydraulics done. Looking forward to the build!

Very nice, Conner!

Thanks guys! Now...The last part I need looks like a 3 pin driver. I have a NF one..If I could make that work. Anyone think so?

Yes you'll have to make a custon drive shaft but that's easy for a man of your skills.:Bowdown2:

What needs to be customized on it?


And MY skills? What have you been drinking? :biggrin2:

This is what I have:




The end of a 1650 drive shaft fits right in the bushing on this 3 pin clutch plate from a 124 (starter/generator type motor)...

Due to the motion of the engine allowed by the ISO mounts, the driver for a Quietline tractor specifies a ball swivel bushing to make up for the motion.

I am thinking about welding in the ISO brackets on a 1200 I am building to eliminate the need for the ball swivel bushing.

I just assembled my first Quietline ISO framework last week. That one may get welded before it is over.

I can not see a reason for not welding in the ISO frame!! :bigthink:

I spent 15 minutes getting the oil pan to set correctly at all 4 corners.

I came back and checked it again 30 minutes later and the bushings had settled some, there is a lot of movement associated with the ISO mounts.

So whats the best way to weld them?

I am still thinking about that!! :bigthink:

Just talked to Adam (IHinIN) and he thinks he could make steel bushings to go in place of the rubber ISOs. But, we need dimensions...Anyone ever done this to know what size to make these bushings? :bigthink:

My teeth can feel the shaking already! I didn't like the vibration my 1200 had after I tried after market ISO mounts.

Would it be much different than a 169? Hmm...:bigthink:

What would the vibration difference be between the solid mounts and Eric's loader tractor!!?? :bigthink:

With the 3 pin driver attached to the engine it has the same movement as the stock 3 pin driver has.

I was looking at the ratings on the Ebay seller's page. He's sold many of these mounts, and a few people said they would buy them again for a QL. :beerchug:



I want something to last, and take the power of the 16 HP, firmly. :bigthink:

Never been on a 169 before so I can't tell ya. I've heard that there is some vibration. Pullers use solid mounts but they are doing short runs not the longer usage we do. All I know is I hated the shaking on the 1200 and oem ISO mounts made it better.:TwoCents:

I think he's saying that if you have the rubber ISO's...then you will need the ball bushing driver, because of the motor moving. If you have solid ISO's...then you could get by with a NF or WF driver, because of less movement. :bigthink:

The ISO mounts are a wearable item like brake pads, rag joints and clutch discs.:TwoCents:

Defiantly...but the steel ones would last longer, and could be re machined.