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-   -   PTO bearing collar question (pic) (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17366)

jbrewer 04-23-2012 06:57 PM

PTO bearing collar question (pic)
 
2 Attachment(s)
I've got a 241 on the bench, and I want to check it out and R&R as required. I got one set screw out of each of the holes that I've circled in red rectangles in the photo below. They took a lot of PB and time, but they came out.

There's two other holes , one on each "step" of the collar , one of which is show in the red oval. This hole doesn't SEEM to contain a set screw, it almost looks like it's started to have been drilled....there's no hex to be seen.

My question is that (if you use the terminology in the 2nd photo) is are there two set screws in each set screw hole in the INNER and OUTER collars

or

two sets of holes in each INNER and OUTER collars, each with one set screw ?



THANKS and sorry if this is cryptic..I've tried several times to word it better.

John

Matt G. 04-23-2012 07:06 PM

In your left picture, the top hole is in the basket pulley hub which is not connected to the bearing at all; the bottom left hole is the setscrew for the locking collar, and the right hole is just a divot that gives your punch something to grab so you can rotate the collar to lock it.

jbrewer 04-23-2012 07:12 PM

OK... good info
 
Thanks Matt... so, the collar is threaded on (right hand, left hand?) and independent of the basket pulley and the bearing?

Is the bearing just pressed on there, or is it attached to the collar?


Thanks for your info.
John

_DX3_ 04-23-2012 07:20 PM

The bearing is held in place with the collar. Use a punch and knock it clockwise to loosen it from the bearing if you are facing the bearing. Now, there is a good chance the bearing is seized to the crank, I had to use a bearing puller to get it off. This would be a good time to replace the bearing and locking collar.

jbrewer 04-23-2012 07:43 PM

OK thanks...that's a big help. So, the bearing is not attached to the collar, but is keyed and just a press fit. I didn't want to pull on it much since I wasn't sure if the collar and sets screws were involved in holding the bearing on.

So... get the bearing off with a puller (and PBblaster and words)

The unthread the collar, then remove the basket pulley.

Sounds close?

Thanks VERY much

John

Matt G. 04-23-2012 07:59 PM

The bearing is not attached to the collar, is not keyed, is not a press fit, and is not threaded on. The OD of the inner race of the bearing that interfaces with the collar is eccentric, so rotating the collar with respect to the inner race of the bearing offsets the axis of the collar, making it 'lock' the bearing onto the shaft, hence the name, 'eccentric locking collar'. Note the instructions for installation and removal in the beginning of the service manual.

johncub7172 04-23-2012 08:07 PM

I had luck with a rubber hammer removing the bearing. The collar should'ent be a problem. Make sure to use anti seize on the set screws for reassembly.

jbrewer 04-23-2012 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G. (Post 128621)
The bearing is not attached to the collar, is not keyed, is not a press fit, and is not threaded on. .

Yeah, but other than that how am I doing?

Let me go read the section you note to see if it makes more sense, and to determine how many degrees of rotation it takes to unlock.

Thanks!
John

Matt G. 04-23-2012 08:33 PM

The amount of rotation it takes to unlock it will depend on how tight it was in the first place. When the collar feels loose and will move freely for slight rotations in either direction, it's unlocked.

johncub7172 04-23-2012 08:38 PM

Note one side of the bearing bore is thin on one side and thicker on the other. Thats how it works.

Jeff in Pa 04-23-2012 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_ (Post 128609)
The bearing is held in place with the collar. Use a punch and knock it clockwise to loosen it from the bearing if you are facing the bearing. Now, there is a good chance the bearing is seized to the crank, I had to use a bearing puller to get it off. This would be a good time to replace the bearing and locking collar.

This only works if the previous installer tightened it in a CCW rotation.

It's a crap shoot to which way it was tightened.

cmatthew 04-23-2012 10:58 PM

you already have the allen nuts out of the collar. i would put the pulley back on, lock it on with the pointed allen nuts and wack it from the motor side and turn the pulley a little after each wack. the collar will come off with the bearing and seperate pretty easy then. or since you have the whole motor on the bench you could just use a puller to get the bearing and collar off together.

johncub7172 04-23-2012 11:15 PM

I think the k241 drives counterclock, and to loosen the locking collar you drive hole clock wise. This is what drives the bearing to the shaft.

jbrewer 04-24-2012 10:23 PM

Got it!
 
It took a bit to get it loose enough to feel how it worked, but some movement with the punch in the collar drive hole, and lots of PBblaster over night allowed it to finally move back and forth in the arc where it was not engaged.

I was then able to use a 3 jaw puller to get the bearing off...grudgingly.

Thanks for all the help. And I thought the set screws would be the hard part!

John

Methos 04-24-2012 11:09 PM

Congrats John!

ACecil 04-25-2012 12:39 PM

Good job, John!

jbrewer 04-25-2012 02:15 PM

PBlaster , the OCC forum and patience... the 3 most important cub tools!

John

:beerchug:

Methos 04-25-2012 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer (Post 129073)
PBlaster , the OCC forum and patience... the 3 most important cub tools!

John

:beerchug:

Well said! +1

ACecil 04-25-2012 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer (Post 129073)
PBlaster , the OCC forum and patience... the 3 most important cub tools!

John

:beerchug:

That's right, John!


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