1882 back to working condition
 

I picked up an 1882 from another member, and I'm starting to go through it. It's the one that DaDuke (earl) was selling, and is exactly what I expected, everything was disclosed, no surprises here. I'm happy with my purchase. Any references to anything that a PO did was in it's life before DaDuke got it.

First thing I noticed what that the steering was pretty hard in places, so I disconnected the cylinder from the axle and it's still hard to turn the wheel while it's running, in spots. Definitely NOT the 1 finger steering I'm used to with the 1872 . I'm figuring either the power steering actuator needs a rebuild, or the steering wheel bushing / u joint is binding.

Also, what a mess of wires! Anyone have a diagram?

Its running poorly (have to keep the choke on), i figure its the carb or the Briggs vacuum based fuel pump pushing too much fuel into the M-18's non adjustable carb, past the float needle's seat. I have a KT17 adjustable carb that will take it's place.

I'm sill just pulling the sheet metal and hosing it down.

I'll post pics when I take them soon. I know it's worthless without them.

Looking forward to your pics.

Here's the initial pictures of it: It looks nicer in the pictures than it is, it's had a rattle can applied to it sometime in the past. Notice how from the tower forward it's black, the flat part on the front of the frame where the front outlets would be looks like a pretzel. It's nothing that a power washer, some oven cleaner, and some primer/paint won't fix. I'll see how hard it is to straighten that front part once the engine is out. If it's won't get straight enough, I'll cut it out and weld another one it.

Attachment 23500

Attachment 23501

Thanks for the pics and update.

Looks like the one DaDuke had for sale. Once you get the engine out pull the CV joint on the steering column apart. It's probably nasty. Should be some pics on the Super Day thread of how to do it. :beerchug:

Sam Mac,

Yep. My next step was the pull the fenders and tunnel cover and disconnect the steering shaft, and try turning the stub on the power steering box while it was running to isolate the stiffness further. Hopefully I'll do that tonight.

This is the one that DaDuke had for sale.

I also got a complete set of plastics with it, and another fender pan and footrest that are in better shape. It'll make a good unit for me to use, so I can put the 1872 on plow duty.

Mike

If I can help don't be afraid to holler. Should be a nice Super when you get done with it. :beerchug:

sale of 1882
 

ALL , ALL ailements, where disclosed, before the machine left the drive way on its way to its new home, it was for the PRICE, a GOOD SUPER when it left here. If the young man is now not happy I will go pickup return money, Don't be afraid to holler, I shure will put time to make, near perfect,or put a Deisel in it as I planned, NOT A PROBLEM,have a nice day YA'LL!!
:banned:

Hey Earl

I thought you were anti Diesel with your gas powered "Pure Plow Machine". You going over to the fuel burner side now? Just busting.:biggrin2:

As far as the Super you sold, it looks like a nice tractor to me. I kinda like the black frame. Looks a little like Yanmar/Cubs. :beerchug:

Sam

All,

I just want to be clear that I am perfectly satisfied with my purchase from earl! We had a great time talking and I knew what I was buying, he was perfectly straight up. Now it's time to take it and make it a 'super' super gt!

Mike

Walk threw the woods and Ill print off what ever you need at the shop. I have everything you need to fix that, big hammers, and a hard disk!

I was watching that on epay when Earl bought it out from under me. LOL Well lets just say DaDuke knows a guy everywhere! LMAO!

Hey Earl, who loves ya? LOL

Figured out why the steering was so stiff. A picture of the problem to the right guess. =)

Here's the culprit, i suspect this machine was outside, and water ran down the steering shaft right into the CV joint. Not an ounce of grease to be found, so CCC must have installed these dry. I wonder if the driveshaft ones will look the same.

Here's some more pictures from the teardown last night:

Mike

I noticed that the drive shaft is still attached to the engine. It should have slid out of the CV joint on the engine. It has a snap ring on the end that attaches to the pump and is supposed to slide on the engine end. When you put the steering joint back together put a zip tie on the boot to keep it sealed, same on the drive shaft boots.

You've been busy, Mike! Thanks for the progress pics.

Sam Mac,

I saw that in the breakout diagrams, i suspect that those CV joints aren't in any better condition. Didn't CCC put grease fittings on these joints in the slightly later models?

Ah, I see that they're in the driveline... or they're supposed to be. I'm looking at my pictures, and don't see the grease fitting, so either they're broken off, or not there at all. Hmmm, more research to do.

Image is every thing!
 

Look , young Mike I'm just upset I ain't got the great drive like I need, to mess with these great machines. I feel I failed if don't bring um back from the brink. I went all the way to CHI. IL to git that super! Just jealous I won't be the one to brag about saving her, YOUR THE RIGHT MAN FOR THE JOB, but next plow day,:Announce: I GET A SPIN ON That Super!!!!

Them dreaded deisel boy's
 

YES I might venture into the SMOKER world! have a story started at custom builds 1811D, am building a plow deisel, for $1600! The MT. airy boy's had to git a 2072 gas machine to blow my doors off! My stealth 1863D will shake them boys to the hilt!!! Git U a plow and git down here have some fun with us!!!:BB&YS:

DaDuke

I'm scared of coming to plow day with anything less than one of these :biggrin2:

Drive shaft should have a grease fitting near the boot on each end. They press in. Last new shaft I bought didn't have the fitting just the holes. If your is toast I have a shaft from the 1882 that I put a CH22 in. Where in SC are you?

Sam Mac,

I just looked at the driveshaft very closely. No grease fittings, and no outlet for the grease at the splines or the end of the shaft. Hmmmm.... So what super used CV joints, but had no grease fitting...

Sam

Mike lives about 15 min from my place. And you know you cant be posting pics of big yellow toys, youll get in trouble for not stayin on topic! :biggrin2:

Mike

I took one of them drive shafts apart when I was going to put the command in the 1872. I took it to work and ran it threw the parts washer then repacked it in grease. Sam has it now. Very rarly do they go bad, but they do need grease to live a long life.

Sam Mac,

Here's closeups of the driveshaft: no grease zerks here, or a c clip holding it into the rear joint: First picture is rear, second picture is front.

And more of the CV joint and parts on the steering shaft: The balls on the left are from the steering CV joint, the one on the right is from a driveshaft CV joint.

Teardown pictures, almost ready for the pressure washer. Still have to pull the dash and wiring harness.

And now a power steering question: the power steering valve has some play in the input shaft. It looks like there is a bearing or bushing there in the top of the stub shaft. In looking at the exploded diagrams, it seems that the stub shaft engages with a slot inside the actual valve, and that the shaft doesn't go through the valve. Can that bering be replaced without pulling the valve completely apart?

Mike

I have never seen a Cyclops without grease fittings on the drive shaft and all the ones I've worked on had a snap ring on the trans end. I'm pretty sure I have a complete shaft for an 1882 but I'll check and if I do I'll post some pics of it.

Mike

I have a few shaft's and CV joints but I do not have boots that are any good. The one that came out of my 1882 is about 24"s long. I have some that are longer so you'll have to check what you have. Took a couple pics for you. The pic of the joint is the shaft I got from Vince. It's a couple inches longer and I'm not sure what it fits.

Sam Mac,

I'll put a tape on mine when I get home. I wonder if this shaft I have is from a later model something after MTD cheapened it up...

I don't think so, the later so called Cubs have a plastic barrel system for the joints. My guess is the supplier to Cub got behind on production and didn't drill them for the grease fittings or cut the snap-ring groove, but that's just a guess.:bigthink:

Sam Mac,

I pulled a measurement on the shaft, looks like 24 is about right.

Here's the first pressure washing results (until the pump blew a fitting, more fun)

Any ideas on the power steering input bearing?

Mike the plastic bushing at the top of the steering control valve should be no big deal. I think you can get it from Cub. Looks like the same one that goes in the regular steering column but I have not measured one so I can't say for sure. Your doing pretty much the same things I had to do to my Supers.

Sam Mac,

My steering valve looks like it already has a bearing or bushing in there.

From cubcadet.com, it's RG-061016x1 (Bearing, Column), $29, and it's sloppy around the shaft but seems to be tight in the tube. Any ideas how to get it out to replace it without tearing down the whole valve?

I think it's plastic, I thought it had a lip on top that maybe you could get bearing puller on or maybe you could drill a couple holes in it and screw in a dent puller and pop it out.

I got the bushing out, I had to use some metal roofing screws and properly applied force, but it'll be much tighter when a good bushing goes back in. Now it's time to collect some parts and put it back together after a little more degreasing, 'adjustment' with a heavy hammer, and paint. Not a restoration, just putting it back in proper cub working clothes, and addressing issues. =)

I agree with the others, tho, paint quality from this era machine is, well, lacking.

The paint isn't lacking, it's a total joke but we can blame EPA for that and the Green guys have the same problem. Nice work. :beerchug:

Wow, that paint is absolutely aweful. I hit it with a 120 grit flap disk on the grinder, and it liquified and flowed, but never came off. So back to the 150grit by hand to get the flaked and popped areas, then 400 to knock it down, then primer, sand, primer, and sand.

Getting closer....