122 Ignition Switch?
 

Been trying to locate an ignition switch for my 122. Pulled my, and it was beyond corroded. I'm sure it's a big reason nothing is happening when I try to start it.

So everywhere I look, the replacement switch is $30-40. Am I crazy, or should this be a $9 part? What am I missing here? It's a three prong, three position switch (off - on - run) right?

Should I walk into an auto parts store and see if they have something? Hardware store?

Thanks, guys!

I can only imagine a mighty low quality switch for $9, but, I hope you are successful so we can follow up with our purchases!! :bigthink:

Normally, I'd be right with you - you get what you pay for (hey, after all - it IS why I'm in the Cub Club, right?)

But $40 for something as simple as that switch is ludicris.

You willing to gamble on the possibility of burning something up over a savings of $20-$30? I got another ignition switch off ebay for about $15 shipped since the one that came on the 122 would let the key fall out.

I would check some of the folks that deal in used parts and get the correct one from them.

The Ignition Switch does not have high amperage running through it. Usually they need replacing due to age or corrosion.

You might try the above sponsors to see if they have a good used switch.:ThumbsUp:

Nearly all generic replacement ignition switches are for magneto ignition, so you are unlikely to find a cheap replacement. The new switch should last another 40 years. And the best part is, it's still available.

That's the difference I forgot about. I knew something was different but didn't remember what it was.

Thanks Matt :ThumbsUp:

Ah, the magneto thing...well that makes sense. I was wondering why everyone was getting a little touchy about an expensive switch.

Bite the bullet, I suppose...If I wanted to go "cheap" I should have bought a cheap machine!

(For the record, I don't want to go cheap...)

Switches are rated by their action (ie: SPST or SPDT, etc) and their amperage rating. It has NOTHING to do whether there for battery or magneto systems.

No worries amccune. I had the exact reaction when I ventured online to buy the IGN switch for my 147. I looked at all these other models that had switches for $14.99 and thought, what the heck?!

Bite the bullet is right, and I still haven't picked one up yet, lol. I just forked out $100 for a new wiring harness and proved once and for all that my IGN switch is for sure bad, so the buying continues.

At least it's fun, right?

Well, that's a drastic oversimplification. We are talking ignition switches, so it matters whether it is for battery or magneto ignition. If it didn't, they wouldn't make both kinds. On a tractor with battery ignition, having the key switch in any position but 'off' connects the B and I terminals. A magneto ignition switch grounds the 'M' terminal (non-existent on a battery ignition switch) to either the case of the switch or a ground terminal in the 'off' position, and leaves those two contacts open with the switch in any other position. One type of switch cannot do the job of the other without a relay in this application.

That's about what they are going for. I actually picked one up locally at my cub dealer for 34.99. 3-prong for my 123.

Here is the replacement switched used on the early NF Cub models with both Magneto & Battery Systems. As one can see, it is a simple SPST Switch with two terminals. If used on a Mag system, one of the terminals wires to ground. If used on a Bat System, then it is wired in series with the Ignition Coil.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...l/CCOIGNSW.jpg

Now, the original poster inquired about his Ignition Switch for his 122. He has basically two choices. (A) Buy the Factory Replacement part, or (B) if not concerned about being restoration correct, buy a "aftermarket" switch. Here is an example of a 3 terminal ignition switch that can be had for as low as $13.00. It may require a few minor modifications, but will work.

Good aint cheap, and cheap aint good. In today's world you get what you pay for!!!!

I certainly appreciate the information, all the way around.

I have two schools of thought - I've always appreciated stock equipment. I had an 83 Mercedes 300TD that I loved to death (literally) and was careful to put stock, OEM equipment on it....at least to a point. When the exhause went, it wasn't feasible to try and remain stock, especially when a custom kit was much cheaper and did the exact same job.

And I guess that's what it comes down to. Will it do the job, and is it worth the risk.

This tractor is going to be a workhorse. I intend to use it for mowing our yard (over an acre) tilling our large garden (size TBD) and plowing our two driveways in the winter...so, the thing needs to work.

Seeing as the ignition is pretty important for turning it on - I guess I'll be paying what I see is twice as much for the part, just to get it right. In the end, $15-20 is the price I'm paying for a little piece of mind.

Now. I flat out refuse to pay more than $5 shipping (seriously, does no one use the Post office flat-rate priority boxes?) so I'm going to see if I can buy it locally.

Ain't that the truth!

You could use the ignition/key switch from your Mercedes to start the 122 if you want to fiddle with it, and re-engineer everything...

The 'little bit extra' you are paying for, is for the ability to quickly install an exact fitment/correct working part.

Regarding the shipping costs, I understand.....kinda.........

Keep in mind, the seller has to either locate a box (= time) or go to the Post Office and get the flate rate box (= time, and quite possibly money in the form of gas) then spend more time boxing up the part, plus using packing material and tape (= more money) and either call for the part to be picked up or drop it off at a Post Office (here again more time and money) all so you can shop via mail order/internet/etc. If you go to a dealer, the time spent talking with you at the counter, and getting the part off the shelf are figured in the price of the part...because they have to pay the employee and still make a profit off of the part to stay in business.

Personally, if I drive to my 'local' Cub Cadet or IH dealer (they are VERY close to each other) turn around in their parking lot and drive home, it's a 50 minute round trip. Figure in the time spent in the store, and the gas my truck would burn at 17MPG...and the unfortunately good possibility that the person at the counter knows NOTHING about my 122, 1450, or 1712, and I save a bunch of time and money by dealing with the OCC site sponsors, and others like them....and gladly pay them the $10 shipping cost they ask for :beerchug:

Nothing wrong with shopping local, and nothing wrong with supporting your local dealer!!!! However, when it's all said and done, it's pretty much a wash regarding prices...the differences are measured up in customer service, and knowledge. And in my experiances, the OCC sponsors have everyone beat in this department!