Plowed Snow
 

We got 15" yesterday, I couldn't get the 1450 to start. Long story short, I think the choke cable is broke as the choke was stuck shut and the pull for it feels funny and won't move the choke. (Are there any aftermarket or do I get one from dealer.) Took the air cleaner off and loosened the cable to get it open. The air cleaner was saturated with gas from all the cranking on it. Ran it without one, will get one before running next time. Anyway, then the shear pin on the lift broke, replaced that and plowed the driveway with no more problems, its blacktop. Then I started down thru the yard to the building the dogs are in, apx 40 yards to the building. I have done this for years with Wheelhorses without to much problem. The cub just dosen't seem to have the traction that the Wheelhorses did. I think they had what was called a unidrive, which may be like posi-traction? Is there any way to open up the rear end and lock the rear wheels together on the cubs? Would wheel weights make that much difference. I hade homemade weights on the Wheelhorses. The ground was not frozen and was very soft, that may have had something to do with it spinning so much. Any sugestions, Thanks

Wheel weights are everything when pushing snow.

plowing snow
 

Wish I had some snow to plow. We've got like 4" all season. Weights and chains don't either.

We had a light dusting in about 1/4 mile swath yesterday . Turned I95 into a parking lot or skating rink ( whichever you choose ) !! :bash:

Im thinkin I could do without the white death this winter !!! :beerchug:

Was just reading another post about rim and tire sizes. Are wider or narrow tires better in the snow? I am running wide turfs now with chaines. I would think the wider the better.

Wide tires do not dig down as easy as narrow will. If you have a hard surface narrow is the best.

An old 4WD trick was to weld the spider gears in the diff of the vehicle to make a "locked" differential. I haven't checked to see whether that would work on a cub rear. However, if you did that, you wouldn't be able to turn at all in the snow or hard surface. Tractor would want to go straight all the time. Even if it turned, your turning radius would be increased a lot. Your best bet is weight on the rear. Lots of it, and narrow tires and chains.

Next best thing would be turning brakes, like Matt G made for his 682, like the SGTs have. See his web site. When one side starts slipping the side with traction stops, so you hit the brake for the side that slips and it makes the other tire turn. Helps tons with the traction and getting un-stuck. That's a mod I plan for my 1650 and 682...eventually.

Thanks, see these wheels and tires. The wide ones I am currently running with chains. I will put the narrow ones on it and give them a try . I gotta get thru the snow.

You need weights if you don't have any...I have 300# on the back of my snow removal tractor.

Matt G., whats you thoughts on the tires. Also, you mean weight off the back of the tractor, in the hitch area? What are you using for that kind of weight? Got any pic's?
Thanks

Combination of wheel weights, washer fluid in tires, and chains. When I had my 128 I used 8.50s instead of 10.50s and I had better traction. If you really want traction, chain up some 6-12s and throw 150-200# of wheel weights on them. The problem with wider tires is that they float over the snow and ice instead of digging in, which is why I've never understood people's desire to install the largest, widest possible tires they can on these tractors. They are of no benefit unless you're driving through a mud pit or the extra width is needed for stability. Otherwise, narrower is better, although 6-12 rears look pretty dumb on anything WF on up, IMO.

Ok, I guess I'll give those narrow tires on that parts tractor a try. I don't mind looking dumb if I can get traction to get thru the snow. I'm going to have to do something about weight though.:bigthink:

A little update on snow plowing with my 1450. I filled the tires with WWF. I got 61/2 gal in each wheel. It made a big difference on how much better the traction was. Have used it twice since doing it. We got another 5" today and had no trouble at all. Now when I go thru the yard to the the dog kennels, if I don't pay attention, I doze the ground, where before I would just stop and spin. I have also made a bracket with a 1" allthread (like one I saw on here) to put another 50lbs of barbell weights or so on each wheel. Hope to get that set up this weekend. Thanks to all for the ideas I get off of here.

Glad you got the 1450 going, and had fun in the snow.

hay matt what do you think a set of 26x12x12 true powers on 12x10.50 rims weigh ea. just tire & rim & tube .just woundering .thanks :bigthink:

I haven't a clue...40 or 50# each, maybe.

WWF in tires
 

How do you get the WWF in the tires http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/i...s/bigthink.gif (if this is a dumb question, I apologize; still, I can't think of any way other than pouring it in through the valve stems and then re-installing the valves and inflating the tire, which seems ... somehow wrong... to me).

If you go tubeless you can pop the bead on one side and pour it in, if you run tubes you can get a tool to put it in through the valve stem. I think TSC sells them.

For filling the tires, look for the Slime products display at your local Wal-Mart, etc. as they sell a $5 tool that allows you to fill their product through the valve stem. It's not fast, but works fine.

Thanks. I'm going to try that.

WWF
 

The way I do it on tubeless tires is to lay the tire and rim flat on the floor with the valve stem were you break the bead in a small spot and pour it in.( Slowly ) As the tire fills you can slowly lift the stem side up and pour till no more will go in. I can get almost 9 gallons in 23x10.50s. The total weight in each is right at 90 pounds in Carlisle True Trac. Air it up and install. It is a huge help but for snow narrow tires with chains are best.

I used the tool that attatches to the valve stem with a bleeder valve and then to a garden hose fitting. I had a drill pump that I put the other end into a 5 gal bucket. It wasn't the fastest but wasn't all that bad. Got the valve stem adaptor at TSC for around $10.00. They had WWF on sale for $1.50 per gal, but don't know about now.

More than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for the suggestions and tips.

I keep the throttel and choke cables lubed with WD-40 at all times druing the snow season.

So it sounds like you got about 50 lbs. in each tire, now you are adding another 50 lbs. to each. That will make a huge difference, maybe even try that before changing out the tires. You mentioned the ground was soft so I wonder if you're better off with the tires you have.

If you can add another 100 lbs. on your rear hitch you'll go through almost anything!

If you can add another 100 lbs. on your rear hitch you'll go through almost anything!


Thats what I'm hoping for.