Hydro "not working" (fixed 1/8/12)
 

I am going to go look at a 149 that is for sale next week. It is being sold by a friend of the owner. Apparently, it has a hydro problem. He told me that it just stopped working and the guy simply parked it a couple years ago. He never looked into what the problem was because he got another tractor. It has not run since then either and likely will not run now. He did say that the engine and starter generator were rebuilt shortly before it stopped working. Maybe whoever installed the rebuilt engine did something wrong with the drive shaft? At least with the wide frame, I can remove the tunnel cover and have a good look around. If I can get it cheap and get it running fairly easily and cheaply it would be a great upgrade from my 125.
I am hoping that it is something simple like a missing drive pin. Any advice on what I can look at to make a quick assessment? I know it will need some work, but I don't want to get into a major project right now. I have a perfectly good, strong running 125 now so i can easily walk if the price is too high or the tractor is too messed up.
Also, if it has not run in a couple years, what should I do before I try to start it. It will need a fresh battery or at least a jump start, and some fresh gas. I'll check oil and hydro fluid levels. What else should I do before I try to start it? I'll bring some tools, a battery booster, gas, oil, starting fluid. What else should I have handy?

Steve,
I've never owned a 125, but a nice running 149 is the cat's meow with the hydraulic lift. Got any pics handy? As you stated, the drive train is easier to work on due to the tunnel cover being removable. The hydros in the cubs are bullet proof unless one tow's 'em around without releasing the pressure valves. If it just quit, I would venture to guess it sheared a drive shaft pin or maybe just low on hytran. As far as getting a cub running after sitting, you are on the right track. New gas, check or better yet change the fluids (not feasable if you want to get it running before purchase). Might have to clean the points to get spark. The carb probably is pretty gummed up if it sat with old gas in it. Pop the tunnel cover off and roll the engine over by hand or with the key and see if the drive shaft turns the hydro. Also pull the plug and turn it over checking for compression. If is seems to be in decent shape, looks complete, and you want it, low ball an offer and take it home with you :GoodLuck:. If you get it running, the price may double :biggrin2::beer2:.

Good luck and keep us posted!

From the CL ad.

The owner made some kind of cable lift for the blade. It is hard to tell what the heck was done from the picture. I won't see it until after the holiday weekend.

I see it doesn't have hydro lift, which is kind of a bummer. That's going to lower the value, though it's still a nice tractor.

I take that back, I think I can just see the lever behind the mess the PO made. Looks as though he rigged a lever to lift the blade, you might also want to check to see if the lift works.

I think I can see a hydraulic lift lever and rockshaft on there, but it looks like somebody kludged an additional lift lever on there. I hope they didn't cut up the tractor too much to get that in there.

I also see a different steering wheel , painted foot pads , bracket on the back , maybe something bolted to the grill ??

Looks just right to me. I love getting things that don't work and making them work again. Still working on the 1650 I found in the woods when I bought my house. I have spent way more money on it than if I had just bought one in decent condition, but then I would have spent the money on some other project anyway. It's all about the fun in rebuilding the thing. Some spend money to play golf, I spend it on building and rebuilding projects. Get it at a good price and go for it!

Steve,
Doesn't look too bad from the pic. The pic is blurry though. I don't get that weird lift setup either. Really makes one wonder about the hydraulic lift and if it was working before it was parked.

Sounds like a sproil pin might be broken on the drive shaft.

That's what I am hoping. What else could it be? What else should/can I check? Let's assume it is not running when I am there.

Pop off the tunnel cover and rotate the motor by hand. Look to see if the drive shaft turns the hydro pump. If not, sheared spirol pin. If it turns the hydro pump, you could always pull the plug on the back cover and see if hytran runs out. Otherwise, you can stick a finger in there and check for fluid or stick a piece of clean wire into the plug hole to do a quick level check. Really isn't a way to check the hydro non running. The hydros are bullet proof. Go into the deal as if the hydro is bad and price accordingly. Then if it is as simple as the sheared pin, you are good to go. Got my fingers crossed for you that it is the sheared pin so you end up with it. Good luck.:beerchug:

Another thing to consider is many of these old cubs still sport their original hydro filters and hytran. Some were changed and the wrong filter put on and ATF put in 'em. The hytran turns to sludge as it pulls water out of the oil. Could be a plugged filter as well. I've heard of guys getting hydros that didn't work. Changed to fluid and filter with hytran and a Cub Cadet filter and were good to go. Maybe another option. :Unknown:

The tractor is a little over an hour from me,and I don't have much time on my hands these days, so I'll have to make my decision right there and then. I'll show up with my truck, some tools, ramps, and some cash and hope I make the right choice.

If I were you I would just get it. Make sure for the right price. I just picked up a 1450 from Indiana not running flat tires... Missing some bolts. Got the bolts cleaned the carb and now I am ready for snow! I paid $180 with a spare running engine. 14hp kholer. I would check out what exactly the cables were holding up and ask about that lift. Maybe after he parked he just tied up the deck? I'd offer him $100 and if the transmission is shot... And thats a huge IF. You can part it out and sell on ebay/craigslist. And make some money out of it.

Most likely it will take a day or two to get running right, (if you are handy) Then you will have a tractor that will last forever!
:beerchug::beerchug::beerchug::beerchug:

I got it yesterday. It runs with a few shots of starter fluid so I know it has spark and compression. Not sure about fuel supply. The drive shaft is intact and is turning the pump. There is fluid in it. I did not spend much time with it yet. I started another thread on it here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=51505

What's the best way to change the hytran? Do I have to do a couple changes to flush the whole system of the old stuff? Is there any way to bleed the lift cylinder? Should I remove the hydro line to the cylinder and manually close it to push out the fluid? What have you all done?

The best way is remove the cover plate and axle tubes and clean out all the muck. I don't think you will flush it out otherwise.

I was planning on the removing the cover plate. What is involved in pulling the axle tubes?

Remove the inner C clips from the end of the axle and pull the axle out.

I got the engine running today and it was driving a little. I think the release valves are still sticking a bit and it surely needs new hytran and filter.

Good news! It is running and driving. I took the release valves out and knocked on my work bench to get the buttons up. I wire brushed around them and lubed them too. I changed the hydro fluid and replaced the filter. That's all it took. Drove it out of the barn and around the block. Runs great. Speed and direction changes are nice and smooth, and the no lurch or creep. Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions. I guess these old Cubs are as good as we say they are. New battery, fresh gas, hydro fluid and filter and the "parts tractor" I bought is a runner!

Now you can enjoy it for many years! :beerchug: