QA42 snow blower restoration
 

Starting a thread in the right spot for this work.
Will get some pictures posted in the next few days. (most of of the pictures are in another thread, "added more IH equip", I will move most over here.)
Current stratus is that it is 95% disassembled and about 40% cleaned and painted.
Several new parts will be required plus lots of new hardware. I will have some questions, and have been trying to find information on here about the restoration and operation of these attachments. As usual, suggestions and comments are welcome!
I will try to set the large structure of the body in the electrolysis tank tomorrow.
Regards,
Chris

Looking forward to your updates, and pics, Chris! :beerchug:

i noted in your thread the need for decals, when i did mine i did not find the safety ones but for the international i went with a mcCormick/international one from book binder and just cut off the top. http://www.binderbooks.com/images/de...C-IH-MINT2.jpg
Attachment 17997

Attachment 17998

Attachment 17999
if any has a connection to the safety decals please post a link

Same here!

:WWP:

Thank you for supporting Binder Books one of our fine site sponsers! The decal looks great!

Looking forward to your work Chris - I have a QA42-A that I'm going to run as-is this winter, then it'll spiff it up for next year.

ps - it's a "thrower," not a "blower." A blower is two stage, the QA42-A is a single stage snow thrower. You probably knew that... :)

Dave,
I am still learning, So I will try to use the snow thrower term. Thanks!
I like the international logo that Bsyphrit used, they look real good! BTW nice job on the restoration work on your snow thrower is that a 36 inch?

I have several parts that I need to get on order and losts of hardware mostly various sizes of carrage bolts. Seemed that International loved these:)

I do need to build/find a rod and u-joint for turning the chute. Mine is gone!

I may not get the body of the snow thrower in the tank tonight. Since I have several small parts that need to be done first.

After getting the auger out and closer examination I found that the inside of the body has a lot of rusted pock marks. I was thinking of filling these with body filler and suggestions?

I will try to get some pictures on here tonight.

Do most folks put on new drive chain? Mine is really rusty but might still work? Soaked with Blaster right now.
BTW the paint is going to be off white just like I used for the 147 hood and rims. I know this may not be exact color. And the next owner can change it.
Found that the electrolysis did not even start to budge the safety sticker on the chute.
(Sorry for the spelling, my spell check is off at work)

Also went and looked at a #1 cart near me. ( this is the guy that has the 125) Owner does not want to sell to bad. I told him I really need it bad! He's thinking about it. Some pitted rust in the bed, but a solid #1 dump cart. Setting outside in the weather:( Maybe another thread on that later?
Regards,
Chris

pictures of the QA42 snow thrower
 

When I drug it home:
Some shots as it came apart.
Hope to start some assembly work with two weeks as the parts are cleaned and painted.
May get the big parts in the tank this weekend. Lots of Blaster used! I did pound out all the major dents in the auger tonight, and pulled the bearings. These are free but have a lot of rust coming out of them when soaked in Blaster. Suggestions? should I replace these auger bearings? Seem like these should have grease fittings? Also the auger seemed to be all the way to the right when facing the thrower and not sure the chain was very well aligned. That's another reason the I wanted to pull those bearings. They need to be free to allow the shaft to slide for assembly reasons and then chain alignment.
Regards,
Chris

rust removal
 

Some shots of the electrolysis system used to get rid of this nasty rust. A 55 gallon plastic drum has done a nice job loosening the rust from years of neglect on the snow thrower parts. The 6 steel anodes inside the tank hooked to a battery charger positive lead (red) and the neg lead (white) is hooked to the part you want to clean. I used about 2 boxes of the A&H Super Washing soda for the electrolyte in the water. Some parts take about 2-6 hours in the tank. wire brush off the loose stuff ( looks like soot). Dry the part. Then I have been using a stainless steel cup brush to prep the surface for primer.
Regards,
Chris

Hey Chris, I see you are using a battery w/charger, I think that will take some load off the charger. I also like the flat stock gives more surface area for the line of site VOODOO!! Did you get that adjuster screw freed up?

Great pics, Chris! Can't wait to see the finished product. :ThumbsUp:

yes to answer a question mine is a 36 inch thrower. i know when i re did mine i went with many links from here for parts and such. the roller chain was easiest to get from tractor supply but it comes in a like 10 foot box so you can buy that and have spare or buy pre cut from a supplier. the bearings and holders are not greasable and can be found on e-pay but after i got mine i swear tractor supply has some that look like they would work and for half the price.
the universal for the adjustment arm go to McMaster Carr, you just drill and pin the rod and every comes apart and goes together for storage.
now for the hardware i went stainless because it would be wet and possible exposure to salt and a rusting bolt makes the best paint look like crap :angry:

the guard for the drive shaft was rusted on thin i wanted to replace it and i just so happened to have a bent piece of 3/16 stainless here but i buffed and wire brushed it and it left to many impurities so right now it is the only rusty thing on it, i just need to pull it and coat it in acid to draw out the impurities

if it were mine and i were to do it all over againthe only thing i would do different would be checking for the bearing at TSC, stainless bolts and shake proff nuts and washers added like 40-50 bucks but well worth it, oh and do not skimp on the paint. i want with decent auto paint so it would hold up and i only needed it like 5 times last year but it still held up well.http://www.mcmaster.com/#
http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx
http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?...rchButton.y=11

Clay,
I thought I had the adjusted left hand bolt out, "but" broke the remainf bolt off inside the adjuster. May drop it at my local machine shop to see if they can clean up the left hand thread. ( I drilled out the major portion of the bolt.)
Have found left handed rod from McMaster Carr.
Anyone know why this belt tension-er adjustment screw has to be left hand thread?
I was on the floor trying to clean the u-joints and came face to face with a solid cast pulley that is a direct replacement for the one I broke:) Nice find. and I cant remember what it came off of:)?
bsyphrit,
I just got my list of fasteners together. I may go with stainless? I like the look but it is really soft and galls real easy. Will see if the budget allows.
Paint: I am going lower cost (maybe) using rattle cans of Rustoleum. I know the Cub police may not like it! I just don't have a spray booth set up right now. And my parts are ready, a few each day. It will look OK for me.

I see you have skids on the runner plates did you add them? I was thinking of adding 5/16 plate 1.5 wide and about 6 inches long with the ends bent up a little. Then MIG weld them on? Thought it might keep me out of the stones a little more. Does yours ride up on packed snow?

The body of the snow thrower is in the tank. One half of it is under water. Just thought of this. I need to add 5 gallons of water to bring the level up above the mid point. I will be right back:) Ok that was easy. Water line now above the mid point of the chute. Will let that cook till tomorrow night.
Did more cleaning and painting of parts tonight.

I think I will look at tractor supply for the bearings. I agree that it would be a good idea to replace these! I think they are typical farm implement type bearing that I have seen on things like hay elevators. Grease fittings would be ideal in these too!
How did you guys clean the u joints and adjuster bracket? Any magic there? Mine are a greasy, yucky mess!
No pictures tonight sorry. Maybe some by the weekend. Sorry I get a little wordy!
Regards,
Chris

the original "skids" for these are just like 1/4 inch mild steel and that is it, i had some heavy scrap here so i cut and heated it to fit like a small ski and keep it up just a bit so the cutting edge on the bottom will not dig so deep as to pick up gravel.
i know that paint can get pricey but i have found if you go the rattle can route you will be further ahead and get 1 quart of IH white and some hardner from TSC and it will cost 1/2 of the cans in the end and give you a smoother stronger, i am doing my 48 deck rebuild and had a second deck as a spare and 1 quart was enough to do both decks. i guarentee it would have taken at least 10 rattle cans at like 6-7 bucks a can. your choice in the end, just kickin in my :TwoCents:
1 quart paint 13 bucks+ 8oz hardner 15 bucks= 30 bucks
rattle cans 5.50 a can x ?= less for more.
http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?...one=16&cnt=300

bsyphrit,
I now have skis on the snow thrower height adjustment feet. They are just 1/4 or 5/16 in steel plates, cut bent and welded in place. Maybe the skis will help? Weld did not come out as good as I would like. The HF MIG just did not preform well tonight. They wont fall off but doesn't look to pretty. Picture included in primer.
The paint is going to stay for now. May regret it, but I learn the hard way:)
I did take the left hand threaded pivot knob to the machine shop and should have it back by Monday with the thread re-newed.
I went to Lowe's and the TSC tonight and did not find the hardware I was looking for So I will look on line at McMaster Carr.
Some pictures of the body of the snow thrower in the tank. I have done both ends once for 6 plus hours each. I took it out wire brushed most of the big chunks off and put it back in over night. Will flip again tomorrow. Was a little disappointed that it did not work very well on the interior. I know this is line of sight process but with 6 anodes I thought that several would be looking at it.
Some picture of some of the parts hanging in the basement.
I had to re-sand the lower portion of the chute. I had some serious sags:(
I was able to bead blast the aluminum gear assembly for turning the chute. I also found some stainless tubing that may work nice for a turning handle.
I need a picture of the handle to use as a design guide and also the approx length from the "u" joint.
The picture of the leading edge is not very clear but what I did was to remove it and straighten it as best I could then grind down the leading edged to about the same dimension all along. Then I will clean paint and re-install with the new leading edge in the front, Was in the back. Just another detail. You guys know all about that.
I did measure the sticker it was 8-5/8 long and about 5/8 wide with the international word in bold black font on a white background.
Picture of the pulley I will be using.
Will hunt in the morning!

Regards,
Chris

the u joint is over all 2 7/8 long.http://www.mcmaster.com/#universal-joints/=f71836
part number 6445k3

the rod you need is 3/8 diameter
i also included pic of a stock rod

bsyphrit,
Thanks for the info! I have to get on McMaster Carr web site and look for some other items too. I think I can make a handle that will be a close match. Great pictures!
-Just ordered the two bearings for the ends of the rotor, these will have grease fittings too:). Also ordered the two needle bearings for the small sprocket shaft getting these from KAMAN.
- cleaned and removed the u joints for painting.
- Bead blasted the aluminum gear box.
- have the body of the thrower about 60% in primer.
-Had to weld up some rust holes and added a coat of body filler to cover some rough areas in the thrower body.
- I did complete the electrolysis on the rotor tonight. Its out and drying off.
I will try to get some pictures loaded in the next day or so.
Busy with venison right now and the work thing. I'm whipped:)
Regards,
Chris

Man cuttin up venison can take up some time EH Chris. LOL
And also I did some more digging on Binder Books site and found the "INTERNATOINAL" label for the end of the thrower, (mine measured 1/2inch by 8inch) just wanted to tell ya. And can't wait till you have more pics.

Eric,
We do take a lot of extra effort and pride in processing our venison ourselves. Eric came over last night and tonight and we have 25 packs of burger, 6 lb of Kielbasi, and 9 lb of shooter jerky ready for the cooking process tomorrow night.

Here are some shots of the progress on the snow thrower. Thanks for the patience. Time seems to fly this time of the year.

-I have several small parts to run through the rust tank yet, but the big stuff is on its way to completion.
- I did get the aluminum bracket bead blasted the the small bearings go in.
- Picked up $64 of bearings today.
- Still need to get the new chain and all the hardware.
- lots of cleaning priming and painting.
- need to fab a handle to turn the chute too!

But looks like it may be completed over Christmas holiday, if I get moving :).

Regards,
Chris

Looking real good, Chris! :ThumbsUp:

Allen,
I can always count on you for support! Keep those 100's shined up!
Any projects in the works? That's neat that you have your grandfathers cart!
Regards,
Chris

I'm working one one too
 

I am having fun with the belt adj too. Just would not come loose so I cut it and drilled it and used an eazy out after heat. I going to use a gd 8 bolt with a rachet after this. I am going to repaint next spring and like that tank you made. I have some stainless strips that should work good.

FYI
 

dotoo2, Please read up on using SS in your electrolysis tank!!!! You will make a TOXIC mix.

Anytime Chris! :ThumbsUp:

I have read some articles and stainless will work but your putting your self in danger of poising your self with Hexivalant (sp) chrome from the stainless. I was very happy with the steel anodes. Reminds me I need to go out ans change a part in the tank!
My adjuster has been re-tapped by the tool shop remember its a left handed thread.
Regards,
Chris

Chris, I think you should figure out what you're going to do next. Because the speed you're going, you'll be done pretty soon:biggrin2:
Looking good, keep up the good work:beerchug:

Todd,
I laughed!
Doesn't seem very fast from my end.
But I have the mower deck for the 147 and a rototiller waiting in the wings, plus a barn fresh 125 coming with deck, snow blower and maybe even a #1 trailer, then there's the 102 or the 73 which needs engine overhaul. So I think I have way to many things in the future:) Some units I will try to just get to be functional.
I like the restoration work but it demands some cash and lots of time. having said that:).
I think I may look for some more implements. I think those would make a nice display at a local tractor show. Would like a disc and maybe a cultivator.

Cheryl told me to get those painted cub parts out of the basement tonight! That's code for spend what ever it takes get that snow thrower together!:)

January thru April you may not hear much from me as we will try to make about 200 gallons of maple syrup. Yea that's about 8,000 gallons of sap. Keeps us moving!
Regards,
Chris

pictures of the QA42 snow thrower
 

Folks,
Some pictures of the progress. Cheryl keeps asking why I am spend so much money on this thing? I don't have a good answer:)
- I wire brushed the rotor and primed it.
-Removed the small bearing races and reinstalled the new bearings for the 3/4 inch stub shaft. Grease holes lined up ok.
- I used a 5/16 bolt, nut and two washers to pull the bearings into the holes.
-Completed sanding the filler on the inside of the body with the old straight line air sander and a DA.
-Primed the rest of the body.
(find the blaster points)


Cheryl and I celebrate our 40 year wedding anniversary tomorrow, so we plan to go out and have a nice steak dinner!


Regards,
Chris

looks like every thing is falling in to place nicely, and congrats on 40 years. that is getting to be a rare thing now days.

Great job, Chris! Thanks for the update. :beerchug:

Agree with Binder Books. Great bunch to deal with. That blower looks good. I like the "bling" on the back corner. Nice custom made sheild! Bet it looks good hooked up and ready to work.

:ThumbsUp:

You do nice work! Can't wait to see this puppy in action. Very nice job! :ThumbsUp:

Mike,
Hummmmm! Hadn't thought about actually using any of this restored stuff:) To much work time and money in it now to actually try to throw snow!
We will see!
I have to get that hardware on order! Then I might be able to start re assembly over Christmas break.
Have a great day! Off to the sugar house to fill some Christmas orders.
Regards,
Chris

Chris Congrats on 40yrs!

The blower looks great and it will look even better on the 147R!

Folks,
I priced out the hardware in Stainless from McMaster Car which has good prices for small lots of items, Included was 1 foot of 1/2-13 left handed all thread, and I was up to about $150. Yikes! May have to drop back to zinc plated hardware to keep the cost of this in line for this project.
Regrads,
Chris

pictures of the QA42 snow thrower
 

Folks,
It was a little warmer so I consumed a couple rattle cans of paint on the rotor and body of the snow thrower. Different camera angles cause lots of color changes the second and third pictures are about the best. The color is a off white. This is going to be fun watching paint dry for a couple days:)
Hope things are good out there in Cub land. Thinking of another big Cub project for 2012, still in the very early planning stages.
Regards,
Chris

It's coming along nicely, Chris! Great job, as always! :ThumbsUp:

Well said!

Chris, happy 40th (late) man you're cruzin' right along, looks very nice.
Did I read right, your using rattle can? What brand are you using if so? What do you use for primer? I know, alot of questions, but that's the only way to find things out, ask, ask, ask:beer2:

Guys thanks on the 40th anniversary! She must be a saint to have put up with me for this long:)
Todd,
Great timing on the paint. Well I am trying to use Rust-oleum Antique White over Rust-oleum gray primer. Last nights paint job looked pretty good with a rattle can. So after drying for a day I thought I would put on another coat. Well the steel and or the paint must have been to cold because I now have a massive glob of wrinkle painted finish:(
Not sure what I will do at this time? Maybe next summer I can sand with a DA and shoot it again. My painting has been so sparatic that I thought rattle cans might work good. Well in most cases they do. Tonight NOT.
Just another one of those things.
Spent the rest of the night in the sugar-house getting syrup dialed in for the PA state Farm show coming up in January,
Regards,
Chris