680 project
 

Hey Everyone, I have several questions on somewhat of a long term 680 project I’m about to start (or not) this is where I would like your input! First let me say, I have viewed several forums and believe this site has about the most knowledgeable members on the CC machines and others. As the owner of many pieces of equipment, 149, 680, 1720, 1554, sears ss12s 10xl to name a few. I will be referencing these and other models/brands in this thread I need to know that this is the correct section to post this thread? Once the formalities are done and the project moves forward, I will post photos if ya’ll like. Thanks

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I keep reading about 680s', but, have no details!!!???

Here ya go!

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-trac...cadet-680.html

Thanks for the kind words! We have the best forum members and their skill levels are second to none!:clap:

As where to put everything, the 146 goes in the IH GT section, the 680 and 1554 goes in the CCC/MTD GT section and the 1720 goes in the CCC/MTD LT section. The Sears goes in the general section of the site. Now if your talking about mower decks and attachments for these tractors that goes in the Implements and Attachments section of the site. Incase you place it in the wrong section someone from the admin/mod team will move it to the right place with a link that will take you to where it's been moved too.:beerchug:

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Thanks Duke, I picked up the 680 w/50" deck & 42" sno-throw,149 w/hyd.3pt & tiller gear box & 1720 ALL for $350.00. all kinda rough condition but run and drive. How'd I do? The Lt has a mag17II motor tag says m18s? & 42"deck not sure what I'll do w/it sell/trade for gt parts I spoze. Would like to find a m18-20 horizontal!! I plan on combining the other two. 149 disc brake rear w/ported pump & hyd.3pt onto the 680 and fab a FEL from an 8n 3pt trip bucket. It will be a custom tractor but I think I'll start here and let the admin/mods decide weather my thread needs to move. Hope I found a home here. More to come!

You should go to jail for stealing!:biggrin2: Great score!

You got a great deal! Let's see some pics. :beerchug:

:NailBite::ROTF1: Hey I just saw your from NC my brother is in Murphy,NC. Anywhere near you? I know it's a big state but still closer than NY. Thanks, Clay

He's about 210 miles from me. :beerchug:

All-right I’ve been :coffee: N :bigthink: N :bigeyes: around this site and still have some questions. I started to ask a few on another thread but didn’t make them clear (my bad) I’ll try again:beatdeadhorse:.
1: I have seen the ser# code# charts for IH cubs but have yet to see anything for CCCs. My #s on this 680 are 142680100 2050587u708620 translation anyone?
2: It has rubber engine mounts, do’s that make it a QL?
3: The engine cradle has cross bracing, is that stock?
4: The rear has internal brakes and non-ported pump, I would like to change this out for one from a 149 donor W/discs & ports also want to transfer the hyd. 3pt setup will that work? Direct fit?
5: Would I need an auxiliary oil tank to run a FEL on the 149 pump? The 680 has knock outs for front hyd. Ports was that an option? Is there a kit?
6: I want to have independent brakes will the pedals from a super fit?
7: the front spindles are 1” would they need modification to use taper bearing hubs?
8: Power steering would be nice but what is a super steer axle?

OK;OK :BlahBlah:lots of questions!!! Thanks Guys, Clay

I can help with a couple of questions.

#1 your cub is a 1982 model 680 according to the serial number.

#2 your cub is the newer version of the 1250 QL. Even tho it has Bushing mounts it is not a QL. It belongs in the 82 series of Cubs. It's red brother's model number is 1282.

3. Yes
4. The 3-point lift bar is different, and the hydraulic valve, cylinder, rockshaft, etc. are totally different.
5. A loader needs a dedicated hydraulic pump...do not try to run it off the ports. Front hydraulic ports were optional (and later standard on some models).
6. Not easily. See my solution on my website.
7. Probably.
8. Front axle from a 'cyclops' series CC; has a tighter turning radius than all of the older front axles.

WOW Thanks for the fast replies. The info is greatly appreciated, now I can move forward with some real plans. I knew I could count on you guys. Hey DWayne good to see your Smoker figured out. Clay.

I guess I will have to put the video of my loader on Youtube.

Yes a loader can be run off a 149's existing pump. I have helped many people do this.

It does help to "shim" the relief valve up to 650 PSI. Mine has been very successful for 15 years.

It will easily lift a "wheelbarrow" full of dirt, the 149's front axle can't take much more than that.

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. The hydro pump is not designed for that, and you'll shorten it's life by running a loader off of it. It is designed for intermittent use for auxiliary hydraulics, not the near constant use as in a loader.

I'll say it again, you need a dedicated pump for a loader...

I do think the "transmission" pump Will work However, If I'm going to do a build it's going to last! I have a case 222 donor that can be used for the loader hydo power. I am working with Very Little cash and trying not to complicate things and use what I have on hand or can trade. Thanks Clay

Hey All, I am now armed with more knowledge and (look out) also more questions. As a mechanic for 35+years I have worked on more makes/types of equipment/vehicles than I can remember (no it’s not Alzheimer’s) but sadly, until recently these Cubs have eluded me. I have re-thought my project my goal remains: One well rounded unit. I’m not trying to reinvent the egg here but this will work for me. I will use the 680 as the foundation I like the enclosed look and the relatively large engine compartment, although my side covers are missing. The loader will be made from a 3pt trip bucket from my 8n w/ added hydraulics powered from my Case222s system components. The power plant will be the k301 with future k321 upgrade, or bigger. The trans. will need to have a ported pump as I will use a 3pt setup and other low power consuming implement actuators. I will have independent rear brakes (Thanks goes out to MattG. LOTS of good info on his site!). How am I doing so far? Now for the rear! I would like to know how the rear on a 680 is different from the 149? Both are cast iron and other than the Brakes and some casting changes, would there be any preference? Durability? Gearing? Hy-brid? Thanks, Clay

If the 680 had a CI rear, it has fine-spline axles, which are stronger than the coarse-spline axles in all of the IH-built CI rearends. The gear ratios are the same.

If you really need split brakes, I'd put the carrier and axles from the 680 rear in the 149 case. That would be the strongest combination with what parts you have.

Ok, Thanks Matt. I guess pics are next I'll try this weekend. Clay

I had planned to cut the grass and do the usual leaf duty today but the leaf bagger broke on my Z-cutter backing out of the shed. I had just picked up an agri-fab sweeper, I thought why not see if the 680 would go and I’d give her one last run before the mods. It would be nice to know of any issues exist other than what the PO stated. The PO had it at a local repair shop they said the hydro. Trans. was bad and it would cost $600 to replace! He explained to me that if the drive lever was moved rapidly front to back it would go, than that stopped working and that’s when he brought it in. Doing the basic checks, shaft, shift linkage, etc... Due to the gunk build up I knew this machine was badly neglected. I first scraped the back plate found the filler plug N checked the fluid, FULL. Took the tunnel cover off cleaned more build up; located the auto valves removed them they were quite clean, surprisingly. Ok why won’t it go well looking into the ports there was almost no fluid; I remembered reading about another hydro. No go and the guy primed the pump by filling the suction tube! So, into the valve ports went some hydro. Fluid, re-installed the valves fired her up and, and, and YEEEE-HAHAAAA!!! off I went. Well my cheek rippin’ grin was short lived, the motor shut off-Dead. No crank no lights nothing AAARG!! Got out the battery pack tried jump starting, nothing opened the hood looked at N wiggled all the wires nothing, removed the connector from the key switch, the green wire was melting through the plastic. Ok with the batt. Pack on the mower deck I connected a jumper wire from + cable onto the coil + and energized the starter and she fired up, GREAT! I grabbed an ignition switch from a Toro/Wheel horse plugged it in turned the key and the wires to the thing started to smoke. Alright unplugged the switch re-attached the Batt. Box as before so I could drive into the garage and do some more troubleshooting. I jumped on and Dang no movement. Now here’s the two issue, Might the transmission problem be a clogged filter? The back of original key sw. is rusted so bad I can’t read the post markings to compare my replacement one, but the overheated terminal was an existing issue, gave a quick look, I can’t see where the green wire goes. Does anyone have wiring diagrams for this model? I never did get to those leaves; I think they will wait for me though. Hope your day was better. Thanks Clay

If they didn't add oil I bet they didn't change the oil. Time for a new filter and you might as well as get a spare I've got a feeling that it's going to need it.

I can almost guarantee you that switch you used was for a magneto ignition and not a battery ignition (and is completely different), and you just fried most of your wiring harness. That was NOT a good idea...NEVER replace an ignition switch without verifying that the new one has the same terminal locations and functions as the old one. I'm sure Roland has a wiring diagram if there aren't any in the tech library.

Hey Matt, Your right it was from a mag system The switch came from a Wheel Horse w/Kohler, one more lesson on used parts!!! Fortunately the only wire that has damage is the green one that was burnt before. I was so happy that the trans came back to life then bummed when the engine died I didn't even think to look at the switch terminals. The irony is I just went over the whole variations of switch design with a guy swapping motors last month. OH Well.

Duke, I picked up a filter and will change that today.

I look forward to hearing from you Roland, If you have a diagram.

Thanks again, Guys
Clay

I picked up a Wix filter @ $19.55 for the 680. Removed the deck, what a big PIA every pin had been replaced w/nails, Franken’ bolts had been replaced w/nut&bolt drawn down tight. The locating pin on the lift rod is broken off, when trying to remove the nails with a punch the spring assist wanted to pull the hanger mounts inside the frame. Finally, I pulled the deck out. Cleaned off the filter area, removed the filter and water poured out along with what looked like strawberry Quick. I wasn’t planning on using this rear but would like to know its status. Called three area cub dealers not one stocks the $16.99 cover gasket, WTH!! And they are getting $24.99 a gal x2 ($14.99 a Quart synthetic) for CC hydro fluid, 1 filter= $93.44 w/tax, just to test the pump. Who’s taken who for a ride here? Since the rear is likely waterlogged already I got out the pressure washer and went to work, I was surprised to see an almost new set of hydro control springs and linkage. The rear had been taken out, was this necessary to replace the linkage? I went to TSC bought, Travellers universal tractor Trans/hydraulic fluid 2gal and 26”x10”x3/32” sheet of gasket material, enough for two covers and more from AutoZone for a total of $47.01. Before I get bombarded about Hy-tran TSCs website says guaranteed and the bottle label recommendation covers all Case, IH/CC applications. I tried to load photos but need to resize. someone here said there is a free app. To do that? More to come, Clay

The last CC hydro filter I bought a year or so ago was $11 and some change...unless prices really went up, it sounds like you got screwed...I have shopped around a bit for filters and never found one cheaper than the OEM one. The NAPA hydraulic filters are also more expensive than OEM.

I know my filter was list+ but it was the only one around, I almost got a $3.87 ph16 from WallyWorld just to test; the pump but that was really pushing things. The CC dealers around here don't stock anything useful!!! If I wanted to order parts I'd have them sent to my door, ya know? Clay

Pictures
 

Here are some pics from first few days and of last nights snow!

Clay you've got some cleaning to do.....


In the spring! You can have that snow!

Nice find on the 680! :beerchug:

Update pics
 

Here's some more recent pics. Can you see the improvements? What is that bracket on the lift arm? Snow chute rod support? Plow angle rod support? What would cause the Ign. sw. connector to melt there? It is a green wire that goes to the amp guage. there was loads of rust on the switch. As I stated earlier the engine just quit, and not a hint of electrical power. I figured it was the sw. and installed the WRONG type:bash: and almost had a cub on the barbie.:Explode:Is that part of the choke linkage I'm pointing to? The deck is not too bad but the center spindle is bad another thread under attachments is about this problem, stamped steel housing. BIG $ to replace I will ask there also but how hard is that shaft? I have an idea to machine it down and fit new bearings. The hour meter doesn't seem to work stuck @ 260+ the wear on this machine shows way way more. Thanks for looking

I bet your pump is happy, i've haven't seen one that was that dirty in a long time. It's looking good.