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100 Face Lift
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Well what started out as a clean up of the 100, turned into a complete face lift. I was just going to put some new gaskets in the engine, and clean and touch up a few things led me to tear everything apart.
It's not going to be a restore, but I am going to sandblast what needs it, and repair a few cracks, and put on some new paint, a little more than a touch up, but not a 100 points restore. |
:biggrin2: I like the way you do a "clean up" of a tractor, LOL. I am looking forward to seeing the progress. :beerchug:
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Looking good zippy1 :ThumbsUp:
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Nice work, Todd! Looking forward to your progress. :beerchug:
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Cool! Looking forward to your updates! I bet its going to be full blown restore when your done!:D
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Lookin Good!!!! I wish I had the energy to do a little face lift like that!!:beerchug:
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Nice Face lift !
Looks like it is going real well . I am envious of all the space you have, nice hoist too !
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Todd,
Looks like your into a full blown restoration:) Hope to see more pictures of your progress. My new seat should be at the house today or tomorrow. Cant wait to see how it looks. Thanks for the info. Regards, Chris |
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I hope it don't turn into a (full blown restore) $$$$$$ But I think I could afford to loose a few pounds by not eating. Or kill a few more deer for the freezer:beerchug:
I'll take more pictures when I get a chance to get back into it, hopefully one night this week. |
Todd,
Thanks for sharing your project with us! |
Todd,
Deer harvesting, now your talkin! Was going to say deer killin but that might offeNd some folks. Hey I got that seat NICE unit! Thanks a bunch. I think the wife gave it the thumbs up too. And the cat was on it as soon as I turned my back! Regards, Chris |
zippy. your exaust looks interesting. is that a full straight pipe? did you bend it so it comes off the factory bend on the motor? i'm looking to do something like that
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Had a rain day yesterday afternoon. So I fabbed up some frame supports for the 100. The frame had a few cracks and I was thinking by just welding it, it would most likely crack again. Seems to be a weak spot anyway.
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Todd great work!
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Looking good, Todd! Thanks for the pics. :ThumbsUp:
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Well I got a few things done on the 100 this afternoon. You think the bearings are shot? No wonder it steered like a dump truck! (old one)
Called my local cub dealer for all the parts, they should be here by the weekend. Welded some PO holes up and got them smoothed over, baby steps I guess. |
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Todd,
Nice shots of your steering! Yes one of my steering boxes looked just like that too. YUK! (BTW did you see pictures of the seat I installed on the 147? Thanks! I think it is going to work well.) Glad to see you are making progress! Regards, Chris |
Appreciate the update and pics, Todd! :High5:
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Chris, I did not see the pictures, where are they? Did you get a chance to test drive (sit) it yet? |
Todd thanks for the updates! Have you ordered your paint for it yet?:biggrin2:
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All the stuff I've been doing to the other tractors is just rattle cans. But I talked with a buddy who has a auto body business, and he told me he would paint it after I got everything sand blasted and prepped. He's doing it with Dupont, for a buck fifty. I can't even begin to buy paint, reducer, hardner and spray gun for that. Plus I don't have to worry about messing it up a time or two! It's also a little tuffer to wheel around something dragging a air hose behind:biggrin2: I'm sure it can be done, but I really want this thing to turn out real nice, especially after going through all this work to give it a face lift:beerchug: |
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Question, how in the h... do you get the center shaft out of the axle? I've got the PB on it for almost a week now and it still won't budge. HEAT? Also, could, or shouldn't I blast the rearend and trans? If I stay away from the seals it should be ok, right? Or should I just get all the paint off with a wire wheel? Thanks all. |
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The pivot shaft is stuck in the axle, so it was accually pivoting in the frame. I think it should be the other way around, right? Shouldn't the axle be pivoting on the shaft? Boy that was about the dumbest thing I wrote in a long time, it has to, because the roll pin goes through the frame into the shaft. (dah) |
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A BIG socket, a small socket and a HUGE "C" clamp will help a lot.
Big socket on one side, small (smaller than the pin) socket on the other, clamp all three together. A dead blow hammer is very useful at this point. It is amazing how much the clamping force pushing on that pin helps persuade that pin to move without the need for heat. I hate to heat cast iron!! You never know where the stress will create a problem. |
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Got a few things cleaned up and primed. Also found some other parts that were worn out and need to be replaced, back to my dealer, AGAIN.
Also, what would you guys do about the rust between the tunnel and frame? I don't think I'm going to get it all with the sand blaster, any suggestion? |
Todd great updates! I would do my best to get the rust and paint it and forget about it.:biggrin2:
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EEEWWWWW!! Bad problem!!
After sand blasting I would use muriatic acid, followed by rust converter. For a "Garage Queen", which mine are, simply sandblast and paint. I had some of that on the 1861 I got. It never grew after simple wire brushing and primer/paint. That typically only happens to "Field Queens". |
Please don't sandblast the rear!!!!! You are opening a can of worms ,sand will find it's way in there,just like at the beach...
Wire wheel it. |
If you could find a tank big enough maybe electrolysis?
Lookin good btw! |
Looking good! Great job, Todd! :ThumbsUp:
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Rust Reformer
Any of those Rust Converters (Even Rustoleums "Rust Reformer" or POR15 ) will convert the existing rust to inert material and provide a good base to paint over. It's good stuff... I've used it on the Corvette I'm working on and it does a great job.
You loosen up the surface, flaky stuff, then paint this over it (it's a thin watery coat) then prime and topcoat and you're done. It really works well John PS: It's not rustoleum paint, it's Rustoleum "Rust Converter". |
When I restored my 100, I sandblasted it and used rust converter. If I was to do it again, I would have drilled out the spot welds, cleaned up both sides, and welded studs into the cover protruding through on the bottom surface, and reinstalled the cover with nuts and lockwashers after painting. That way you can paint the mating surfaces, and if you did it right, no one would ever be able to tell you did anything to it.
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Thanks for all the advice guys, it's good to have you guys in my corner on this stuff. I know it's a road well traveled by some of you, but it's a road I've never been on before, so it helps when someone is along for the ride to tell me when to turn or brake.:beerchug:
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Got some sand blasting done this afternoon, the dash is really bad inside, got the outside done before I ran out of sand. Seems there's a couple extra holes in the tower. Also got a few parts primed, and got another new part:biggrin2:
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