Back Blade Project
 

I recently found an original IH back blade. It was in pretty rough shape, but I enjoy restoration work and making things look nice so I decided to take it in as a project. I will try to keep pictures posted on how my progress is going. Here are pictures of how the blade looks as of now.

Cool blade! Good luck with your restoration! :beerchug:

Nice find. Hope to find one myself someday, then I can restore it like you.
Keep posting pictures of your progress, we love to see them.
CaptMax
:American Flag 1:

Nice find maddog784

I'm so looking forward to this one!

Me too. Nice find:beerchug:

Me also!:beer2:

A Little Seat Time
 

Well, I think all of us know that when we get a new toy, we can't just take it apart and begin the arduous process of restoration. We need to PLAY! I ordererd some parts (Frankenstien bolts, U-Bracket, and Lift Arm) from Patton Acres and they worked perfectly - just wanted to give them a shout out. Installed all of the new components on the 784 and took it for a spin. I decided to make my own lift bar. I do have to say that if you plan on making your own lift bar, do not undertake this project without a good set of drillbits and a corded drill. Learn from my mistakes. However, it turned out well. I think a new set of ag tires is next on the list - the turf tires pull well, but when I apply a little down pressure on the blade, the tires don't have enough traction to pull. If the tires would keep traction, the blade would cut extremely well. I did manage to bend the lifting arms attached to the blade - I think I may make some aftermarket modifications to help deal with the down pressure. I try to keep use of the down pressure at a minimum, but the hydrualic power gets me every time! If I could find some small suitcase weights, I could hang them on the blade and reduce the necessity for the use of down pressure.

If you have played with one of these, please let me know about any tricks or secrets that I'm overlooking!

Nate

Yeah, the down pressure is why your tires are not hooking up, even ags will start to spin more than likely if you apply down pressure. Some rear tire weight will help a lot. You could use some old flywheels on top of the blade for some really good weight. They are Cheap.

It seems like when I feathered the down pressure, I could get some decent results. However, when I was a kid, we had a 42" dozer and a piece of old rail - I think it was about 75 lbs -that we would sit on the blade and we always got good results with that. I would be interested in a float system for the blade. It may be something I build in on the aftermarket blade lift brackets. I would try to make it to have a float lockout, similar the hydraulic lifts on the tractors.

Your lift system should already have a float position if you don't have it locked out...

On the 784, the lift bar that extends back to the sleeve hitch is attached to the lift cylinder - this makes it impossible for the sleeve to not put down pressure on the implement. It seems like some implements came with chains or something like that to allow implements to float.

Either way, I would like to develop a float lockout that I could adjust without having to take the tunnel cover off.

BTW - I like the aluminum foot plates that you have on your 782.

Thanks, those were custom made. Of course I no longer have the 784 I traded it back to the original owner for his 1572 Diesel.

We need a pic of your lift and how you have it set up. There is a pin that can be removed or placed that gives you floating capabilities or down pressure. This picture doesn't show it too good.
I think someone here will have a better picture of it in floating position and locked position.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb162/DXKLR/Lift.jpg

I like your rear blade! You did a nice job on it! :beerchug:

The way that mine is set up is this: The float lockout that this picture shows only affects the mid-mount implement and anything that is hooked up using a lift rod, i.e., snowblower or blade.

OK, that might be correct, wasn't thinking clearly about the lift rod. And the lift straps I have for my plow are slotted for some float value. I'm still learning... :beerchug:

The lockout only connects the candy-cane looking arm (marked by the blue line) that is attached to the cylinder with the arm that controls lift/lower functions of the mid mount lift (marked with white). My lift arm is connected to the pin that connects the cylinder with the candy-cane bracket. The lift arm in this picture is installed. Picture courtesy of DX3.

I do not have time to take pictures tonight, but I can work on some for tomorrow - I am hoping the pictures will say what words can't.

These should help, but please let me know if I can help explain anything.

Nate

You typed faster than I can think - I am still learning this too. I would have bet that there was some float capabilities installed. I believe that it is this way on the 3-digit and QL series. We'll learn as we go.

Nah, no need for that.. I just had it in my mind there was some flotation to the rear lift. Everything I have used a blade on,, Front only, was manual lift and I could lock the button for float. Haven't used hydro lift yet with a blade. I learned something. :beerchug:

Nate, Hows the 784 running for ya? Looks great with the blade on it.

Running great! Just got a #26 to rebuild and install, so that's what the future holds for it as of now....