Cub cadet 107 Negative battery ground
 

I am re doing the wiring on my Cub Cadet 107. Where is the correct location for the negative battery ground? Is it on the generator bracket?

On my 122 it's attached to a bolt on the right-hand side of the steering tower, just a bit behind the S/G's location.

Same here on my 102. I was told the S/G bracket is a good location though.
CaptMax

The best thing you can do for your Cub is buy not redo your old wire harness. I spent $60 to $70 on a new wire harness for a 126. Best thing I did for that Cub. The tech section in this site has a diagram of a wire harness. It shows 2 places that has a wire going to the ground.

I think your right Merk, but I'm already head over heels in this Kinda too far in this but, I hope I wont be on here posting how I should have listen to you. Well wish me luck

I finished working on a Cub Cadet 126 for someone a few months ago. Someone before me tried to fix the wire harness. It was easier to replace then to patch. You will save yourself time, aggervation and money by replacing the harness rather than replacing a few wires. Having the wires colored the right color makes the job easy to do and in the furture easier to trouble shoot.

Well im not patching anything i am basicly making my own harness when its all said and finally running i think i will snap some pictures if it ends up working out. I work as a Tech for aamco so i know how to do a decent wiring job. i figured i could save my self some money but i will post pictures if i ever get the old girl running she hasent ran in years

I completely rewired my 149 using the tech sections diagrams in about 2 hours all wires labeled and by far superior to what was their and it was quite easy but I have an electronics/electricity back ground! Cost 2 bucks as I had all the stuff left over from another job I was doing!

That said Rock On Dude you can do it as long a schematics don't scare ya!!! Use a multimeter to get the right wires where their going!!

Cost only 2 bucks????
Even though you had some stuff left over from a different job it still cost more than $2 to rewire your 149.

You can label the wires.....What happens when the wires get dirty, oil covered or the label falls off? That is why I like to use the correct colored wire.

Short term using the same colored wire is a cheap fix....long term it will be a pain work on when the labels fall off or get too dirty to read.

The best place for the heavy ground cable is right up there at the starter gen bracket. It's only one cable, not part of a "harness". I ran all my heavy cables in one bundle to/from the S/G and it looks pretty decent.

When you're rewiring, make sure the voltage regulator is grounded. It's on rubber mounts and sometimes there is a ground wire, and sometimes there isn't, across the rubber section.

Proper colored wires is a benefit, but there are only a few wires. I've used labels that are pretty much forever. Brady.

My 126 was wired positive ground when I took it apart. It all worked quite well, somehow. I still haven't figured out why.

The orginal wire harness and replacement wire harness had the negitive cable between the starter generator bracket, voltage regulator and negitive battery post. The negitive cable was part of the wire harness.

Im going to post some picture for you guys if the heat here ever lays off I orderd new key switch and the engine is off of it right now and i am working on cleaning things up but when she is all back toghter you guys can count on a bunch of pictures

I was surprise when I recieved the wire harness to see the negitive cable as a part of the harness. I did not expect the negitive cable to a part of the harness. It did make the rewire easier to do. One thing I did not like about the harness is the negitive cable is only a 10 gauge wire. I like to use a heavier gauge wire for ther negitive cable and connected it to the back bolt of the starter generator when I wire a cub.

This harness was a nice one. All the the termal ends had srink wrap on it.

Some like to make their own harness and some like me prefer to buy a harness from a supplier. I've had to debug some of these home made harness in the past. Tags can and will fall off and become unreadable. There isn't any cost savings if you put a dollar value on your time to make it.


It's your Cub....

This is the Re wired cub cadet
 

Nice looking 107! :beerchug:

That's Right!

Only bad part is it has a motor TAPing sound im hoping its just not geting oil to the lifters cause it only does it at low idle it goes away on fast idle im thinking the lifters arent geting enough oil. I put some Seafoam in it ima see what that does and if she is still tapping after the show looks like i got to tear into the engine

If the engine has the proper amount of oil in it, and the dipper is still on the rod, the lifters are getting oil. Check the valve lash.

It could also be the PTO clutch (most likely), sloppy driveshaft coupler, or any of a number of other things.

107 cub cadet
 

I am having rewiring my 107 cub cadet have tried several wiring schematics with no reward, I need help. :American Flag 1:

First, welcome to OCC. :Welcome2:

Just what schematics are you using...??

Welcome to OCC!

You can find the correct schematic in our technical section of the forum or just click here and scroll down:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

Cub Cadet 123

I have repaired wiring on most of my cubs at one time or another. I recently used a whole new wiring harness that my son bought. I can say that the harness not only contains all the correct size and wire colors and correct for length but had all the connectors attached. For most of our old machines the wires have endured a lot of extreme temp variations and are work hardened so to speak nor to mention being exposed to all that vibration. Current wiring I assume is better able to handle those extremes than products from 40 or 50 years ago. Even if not much better my old harness lasted about 49 years so I should not have to worry about it for the rest of my life. I believe it took Eric and I only about an hour to install the new harness.

I make my own wire harnesses. I am also starting to use a trick I learned wiring trailers. Rather than rely on the frame as part of the ground, I ran an additional wire from the where the ground normally bolts to the frame at the battery to the where the S/G is grounded to the frame. I have a camp mower (rusty) that always has ground problems, even with a star washer between the fender and the frame, when ever it turns over slowly I get the socket, loosen and retighten it and it's good, so I figure why not bypass the problem with a wire? I am doing the same on the 129 I just painted up, since all that paint will not help.

This is an excellent idea. I've done this a couple times, too, and am doing that on my "deal on a 1000" build thread currently in progress. I have even run ground wires to the lights to remove dependency on chassis grounds.

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!

As long as your battery is grounded good to the chassis, there is no reason to be scared of a chassis ground. No reason for extra wires. I always ground to the chassis. If there is an issue, I clean the grounds. On a cub, there is what, like 3 grounding points?

or none if you wire it directly:biggrin2:
I started that on the camp mower, it is used by a few guys and if it is not turn key and mow it doesn't get done. It is overkill, but for me wire is free and time is cheap so I have been doing it as part of the rewire process

One for each tail light, one for the headlights, one for the starter relay, one for the starter to the frame and one from the battery to the frame. I count 6, excluding breaker points, spark plug (no choice there), and condenser, which ground to the engine (which is, hopefully) grounded to the frame.