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-   -   108 engine parts (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11935)

Lee250 07-03-2011 02:43 AM

108 engine parts
 
Just to double check the 10hp kohler in a cub 108 is a K241 correct. Also are all k241 the same. I found a website with master overhaul kits really cheap but want to make sure.

jlampe94 07-03-2011 09:07 AM

A K241 is correct, and as far as i know they are. Good luck on your rebuild!

ronalddipietro 07-03-2011 12:05 PM

107 k241a
 
I have a 107 hydrostat..with the Serial # K241A...guess that would be same as the k241...anyone know for sure

Cub Cadet 123 07-03-2011 01:05 PM

There is a Kohler engine maunaul for download in the technical section in the library of this forum that takes a while to download, but well worth it for reference. I believe the first two numbers describe the bore of the engine and the last number describes the number of cylinders. The extra letters describe options for the engine that were included.....sorry, I forget what they mean, but I think the letters used were A, S, and Q, though I am not for sure. Well, anyway, download that file and it will be a good reference for you.

Cub Cadet 123

_DX3_ 07-03-2011 06:14 PM

Link to download your Kohler Service Manual:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

CaptMax 07-03-2011 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronalddipietro (Post 81196)
I have a 107 hydrostat..with the Serial # K241A...guess that would be same as the k241...anyone know for sure

The "A" stood for special oil pan. Not sure what was special about it though.
Anyone have a picture of the differences?:bigthink:
CaptMax

Lee250 07-04-2011 04:58 AM

Thanks guys. And thanks for the link. Very good info there.

ronalddipietro 07-04-2011 08:41 AM

thanks
 
thanks for link...one question:...regarding the Mule Drive on the 107 kohler, my belt seems to keep breaking,,I have inspected the pulleys..nothing I can see..all edges are smooth..As I understand it,,two belts are available, 3/8 and 1/2..is this correct??...serial # on my engine:...3147790... Belt replacement...IH-490489r2...

jlampe94 07-04-2011 09:24 AM

I think the "A" may have been for a deep sump in it, i think i have what all the codes stand for somewhere, ill have to look for it and post later today what they are if someone hasnt already.

jlampe94 07-04-2011 09:29 PM

Ok here are the codes, A-special oil pan , Q-quiet model, S-Electric start. There are more but those are the only ones ive ever seen or heard of, if you have ?s on other ones i have the rest of them.

Lee250 07-05-2011 03:19 AM

I saw in another post about taking out the balance gears cause they can break. Is this right? Also what all should be changed in a rebuild of one of these engines? I'm going to get new rings, piston, rod, gaskets and seals, valves. Is it a good idea to change the governor gear as well? What else?

ronalddipietro 07-05-2011 07:15 AM

107 belts
 
what say ye...on the belts..???

young enthusiest 07-05-2011 11:06 AM

I don't know what to say about the belt, but is it slipping, if it heats up enough it might melt... I'm not sure. What makes the oil pans on the kohlers in cubs "special" Is how they differ from the regular pans that kohler used. The pans that kohler usually put on these engines are a flat pan, with the drain hole in the side, and they bolt onto flanges on the engine, not bolt onto threaded holes like most of us are familiar with. A "normal" Pan will not bolt onto a "a" block kohler, nor will a engine without an "a" pan even fit between the frame rails of all narrow and wideframes. I beleive the original is the only cub tractor with the "normal" Pan in it. When rebuilding an engine, a service manual is a must. I always: install full gasket set, carb rebuild, replace rod, rings, piston, governor gear, ALL ignition parts, and usually the exhaust valve. Always torque things the way the manual tells you to, and you shouldn't have any problems. Good luck!

Lee250 07-05-2011 12:44 PM

What about the balance gear?

jlampe94 07-05-2011 12:49 PM

Ive heard that some take em out, in my 129 i put new needle bearings in them and got some new spacers for them and i havnt had any problems with them. Ive ran it pry 30+hrs at the minimum. The rest is stens parts, i just ordered a rebuild kit off of ebay.

young enthusiest 07-05-2011 01:50 PM

GET RID OF THE BALANCER GEARS!!!! they are called grenade gears for a reason. Don't take the risk of having an inspection window in the side of your block. It's happened to me, happens to a lot of people. I say take em out. That's my opinion

Matt G. 07-05-2011 03:02 PM

Replace the governor cross shaft and brass nut as well, that'll eliminate an oil leak common to these engines once they get some hours on them.

If you intend on keeping the tractor I would get an OEM piston and rod, or at least an OEM rod. The aftermarket gasket sets are pretty good.


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