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1572 Trans-fluid Leak
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I finally got a chance to trouble-shoot my fluid leak on my 1572 and need some advice. I got lucky on this, I thought it was the cork gasket as old as this tractor is. Looking at the hydro from the operator seat view, the right valve on the top is spitting fluid. Is this as simple as replacing the valve or is there something else causing it to spit fluid. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg.
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Swap the valves and if the same valve is spitting fluid then the valve needs replaced. If the same position spits fluid, you have something else going on.
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I just swapped them the spitting followed the valve. Thanks for the help. Would just go ahead and change them both? Thanks again, Greg.
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I would, just a good preventative maintenance thing to do. Roland has an address around here for a heck of a price on brand new ones. I'll see if I can find it.
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Thanks, I will call them in the morning and see what the price is. Patton acres has them for 117.00 each. Thanks, Greg.
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Valves
Is it possible to take these valves apart and clean them? Or to flush them with carb cleaner or such? $100 for a pair of valves sounds expensive.
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A $100.00 for a pair is CHEAP. Most places want a $100.00 plus, for EACH.
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I got mine ordered today from L J Fluid power. They were $57.02 each plus shipping. $156.00 at the dealer. There is a guy on ebay that rebuilds them, but that is about 45.00 each with shipping. They are on back order, so I should have them in a couple of weeks. I will let everyone know how it goes.
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Cheap?
$100 for a pair of valves may be cheap, but it's not as cheap as a $5 can of carb cleaner. I repeat, can these valves be cleaned or blown out? Does anyone know what the internals look like?
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1 Attachment(s)
Is this what you are looking for...??
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Yep, they are not really designed to be repaired by your normal shade tree mechanic.
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The problem with these Check Valves leaking, is that internal "O" ring going bad. The $5.00 can of carb cleaner is NOT going to fix that.
The valve is put together at the Factory with a rolled crimp to hold the cap on. One can grind off the crimp, to lift off the cap, to expose the internal parts like in my picture. BUT... there is no way to put it back together. How does one weld the "cap" back on without heating up that O ring and destroying it. Haven't seen it done yet. The most practical way to cure a leaking valve is "replacement".:ThumbsUp: |
There is a guy on eBay that claims he can fix them, but you will have close to $50.00 each in them, so might as well buy new. That is what I have done.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cub-Cadet-Auto-M...item4aa9721237 |
I used that guy from epay. I needed 3 of them and paid around 110.00 after shipping. All three seem fine.
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