New 125 hydro
 

Well, I will first update everyone on it, I painted the hood and grill yesterday due to some rust, just didn't want it getting any worse, now gotta tune the carb tonight because it only runs good on half choke. Now, my question to you guys is, how should I go about diagnosing the hydro in it. My great uncle said he thought the valves were sticking, but before I go taking it apart I want to know if anyone's had the same issues. When I push the lever forward I have to push it all the way up to get it to move, but after I do, it will shortly just take off on me and start going really fast. Then when I go to put it in neutral it will hop slowly into reverse. The reverse on it just creeps along and I have to keep the hydro lever held back. Does this sound like valve problems? I am planning on replacing the fluid and filter but I want to try to diagnose if thats the problem first. :bash2: :angry: :bigthink::Help:

Sounds more like you need to do a trunion repair and then adjust the hydro linkages per the manual.

Sound like sounds advice to me!:beerchug:

Ok I will go get the manual from my friend tonight, this may sound amateur (which I am:bash2:) Will I have to take out the whole rearend for the repair or can I get away with taking of the fenders, etc.

If you have to do the trunion repair then you'll have to split the tractor if not pull the fenders and seat pan and everything will be right there. You'll be able to check out the trunion from there as well. Great time to change the hy-tran as well.

After reading this again it sounds like you might have loss the springs and pin-spring guides part # 911-3033. Mine acted the same way. I had to go all the way forward or reverse before it would do anything and I couldn't find neutral with out hitting the brakes.

Trying to email myself a pic of it now.

So when checking out a hydro, what are some things I should check for wear before putting it back together?

Here's the pic I was trying to find. There's a write up on the trunion and repair posted. I'll see if I can find it for you.

This woulda helped the other day had i gone back online, I split the tractor and found the problem. The trunnion and damper spring setup was mickey moused on. The small damper spring and ends there were missing and the big spring was mounted between the trunnion vertically and was wiretired on. I fixed it and replaced the drive shaft while art it and she runs and moves good now. :biggrin2::beerchug:

Hey, glad to hear you got it fixed up. Thanks for the update..:beerchug:

Ditto! :beerchug:

That will teach you not to come back and read before you start a project.:biggrin2: All joking aside I'm glad you got it fixxed!:beer2:

Thanks everyone, so other than the hydro repair I had to re thread the drive shaft coupling with a 1/4 20 tap and throw on a different drive shaft. All in all, I've been using her the past few days to haul stuff in a wagon around, and also brought my cousins and siblings for a ride in the wagon. The 125 is sweet! now to find a 70 or 100 to add to my collection.....

Also, threw a stack on it (used a set of exhaust pipes off a wheel horse and a different cub muffler, didnt wanna ruin original) and my nana is coming by tonight to take a look at my seat off the 123 that the 125 is using right now because she can reupholster stuff, so hopefully that will be all set soon, and today im going to make a headlight panel able to hold the lights at my vocational school (machine trades class) I will let everyone know how that goes as well.

Sounds like your making good progress. Don't forget to add support to that exhaust stack. Would hate to see the cast iron crack at the top of the pipe threads from the extra weight and vibrations. :beerchug:

Yah im thinking about using the 123's old hood, it already has holes on top from one of the former PO's i will just put two holes in the hood and put on an exhaust pipe clamp probably

And also the deeds been done, I brought my headlight panel to my class and I cut out the holes for the lights and brackets. It looks good and is all to measurement, I took it to the milling machine (which has the auto feed on it) and cut holes 4.030 for the lights, they fit like a glove, then I drilled 4 holes together for the light bracket (2 on each side) I will get pics later.

Well, in these pictures I got two things going on. In the first few are the new lights which I machined the holes for the lights, I used a 1/4 end mill on a miller and cut 4.030 and the lights fit like a glove. I made the center of the lights hald the width and a quarter of the length to even them out. Then I "borrowed" some light brackets off of my simplicity and put them in. I know, the lights dont have any connectors on them, right now theyre for looks with the stack:biggrin2: which is the other thing in the pictures, is the start of my support bracket, I ran a piece of steel from the other side of the head (on the bolt where that bracket is originally (which is still on there)) and then I bent some aluminum pieces of stock around and I am going to connect them with a bolt or self tappers rather than the piece of wire :BangPC:. Overall, I think my lights and stack idea are pretty good for an amateur 16 year old machinist :beerchug::beer2:
Oh and not to mention my amateur wrong color rattle can job on the hood and grill Lol
I suppose I could also create a thread in the customized cubs section for the lights too
:bigthink::biggrin2:

Oh and I also drilled two holes on each side .500 out from the edge of the circles for the light brackets..

Awesome work on the lights and stack! :beerchug:

Awesome job on the lights. I love the looks of them on the NF's. :beerchug:

Thanks for the compliments guys, and DX3 I agree, I don't like the solid headlight panels as much, its amazing what you can do with a little bit of machining. Next objective is hooking up a rear light and the front lights tonight. I will post pics of them when I get them done. I couldn't do them last night due to tornado watches in the area.