Crankshaft bearing questions
 

I am needing help finding an aftermarket (SKF,TIMKEN) bearing number for a K301 engine. The numbers I found on partstree are IH-ST436P or IH-ST436 and have been unable to interchange them. I have also read that the Kohler 8 ball bearing design is better than the 11 or 12 ball design due to less friction. Is this true? Is there any tips or trick to removing/installing the bearings without using a press?

Is there a number on the old bearings? On my k321 the bearings are a nachi 6308 open style bearing. I believe the 241, 301, 321, 341, all use the same bearing. check evil pay. I agree 80.00 each from kohler is a bit much

Deere gets $59.00 for them but evil pay has some for less than $20.00

any force you apply to a bearing has to be applied to the inner race only- as the inner race is in contact with the crankshaft. Pulling off a used bearing with no intention of re using it, tap on outer race if you want. It will move, just slowly. Installing new bearings, I grease the shaft journal and use a piece of tube steel to tap the inner race only. You could tap lightly in a rotary motion to work it on, but that tends to get it cocked and locked .

Thanks Guys for the information!:beerchug: Now that I know it is a 6308 I can interchange here at work. NAPA # 6308J, which sells for 65 bucks.:biggrin2:

I just installed my crank bearings I received from evil pay for 40.00 and they were koyo bearings cant beat that.

this thread is a little old but i am rebuilding a k341 that i broke the rod in lots of pieces, cause the oil ran low. i made steal plug that goes where the crank goes in the id with a large handle i can tap on. thay came out nice. when rolling them i felt some things that may have been contaminates on teh races or balls. i dont know what all got in there from teh grenade or sludgy oil. well im looking at bearings now too. mine was an SKF 6308/C3Q66. when i looked it up there was nothing on SKF's site with those numbers. there was about 6 different 6308 bearings on there though with different specs. Brian Miller has aftermarket ones on his site for $15 each from china. id rather not have a china bearing in there. so do i just look for a bearing that has just 6308?

put these in http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsu...n-ball-bearing I wash the bearings out and unless I see rust, pitting, fretting or galling on the race or the ball I reuse them. I don't ever remember having to replace one unless it had rust on it from sitting. even then I just put good used ones in. The bearings in the link above are 12 ball instead of 11.

I've had cranks break in half and still reused the ball bearings.

The bearings Don listed are excellent. However they are pricey. If you go to a local industrial supply store like grainger or motion industries they will be able to help you out.if you take them your old bearing.

If you roll those bearings, and they have a "tick" or you feel something like contaminates in it.... REPLACE THEM! I wouldn't put a china bearing in it. Have a parts store, or preferably a bearing company, match the old bearings. SKF's are good bearings, so are TIMKEN, BCA. I recommend either SKF or TIMKEN. Don't "fudge" your rebuild by not replacing, or putting a cheap bearing in. Yeah, they're expensive..... So what. Do it right, so you don't have to do it again. If your rod grenaded, I wouldn't even consider running those old bearings again. But, it's your motor....

I cleaned them up and put some new 30wt on them. They feel good but I think may feel something. It may be in my head. I called my local bearing shop and they have skf's on the shelf for $35 ea. small price to pay for peace of mind. I can't put the old ones in. I'm like 99% sure there fine but oh well. That's like a good meal eating out that I will crap out the next day. I'm thinking I could be dead bf this thing will need rebuilt again.