149 hydro
 

Well, for those that read my post about swapping engines on the 149 with a newer 149 I bought, there has been a set back. I decided to mow one more time with the old one before doing the swap. It was a good thing I did. If you recall, I was bragging on my old 149's hydro being so tight and smooth. During mowing the hydro went to h**l. It just started speeding up by itself, I had to keep adjusting the lever to control the speed. I feels sloppy also and the handle feels loose, as where before it felt nice and tight. I am going to work on it tomorrow and was planning on doing all of the mentioned fixes found on the FAQ cub site ( http://cubfaq.com/questions.html ). I guess my question is this. Most of the fixes he is talking about involve worn parts, etc.. Mine didn't slowly start acting up, it just happened all of a sudden. Is there something I can check before going through all of the other fixes? It just doesn't make since for it to go bad all of a sudden if it is just worn parts.

Sounds like a connection in the linkage or something was coming loose on you. Could be an easy fix. had the same thing happen to me.

Your 149 sounds like my 149...make comments on how good it is and it's desides to act up.

It sounds like something in the linkage came loose or the trunion needs rebuild. The fender needs to be remove to do most of the trouble shooting and repair. The Techinical Library has several good topics that will help in solving the problem(s). First you need a Chassie Service Manual
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=232
to make the task easier to do.
There is a topic on Hydro Lurch
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43
that was summited by Richard Christensen and Roland Bedell (Thanks Guys!!!) that should help in trouble shooting your problem.

It's an easy repair. You will need to do some welding if the trunion needs rebuilt.

Thanks, I already removed the fender yesterday and started cleaning, what a mess. Yea, my fault, should have kept it cleaner. Anyway, I will get on it in the morning. I hope it is easy as I am anxious to get the new motor in. BUT, if I can perform some resurrection on this one I may be able to do the same to the newer one saving me an engine swap.
I'll keep you posted.

I have the bottom braket off of the control lever, it has a small plastic insert that is a tensioner/friction control to the lever. It is worn out and you can't tighten it any more. I am going to the CC dealer but I doubt they will have that part. I will try to rig it with something else, some sort of teflon or other palstic. Anyone have a suggestion? I am pretty sure this is what is causing the problem. Off to the store I go

I made a friction sleeve and everything is working as it should. I also added the shims to the trunion bracket to take the slop out of it. I ordered the plastic sleeve anyway, just in case the one I made doesn't hold up but I think it is probably better than what was in there.
I did encounter a problem that I couldn't fix or figue out a solution to. I couldn't get the control lever off. I took the set screw all the way off and did every trick I knew and couldn't get it to budge. I had to do all of this work with the shaft in the tractor. I put wood blocks under the handle and used a large brass punch on the bottom bracket and couldn't drive it out. I even did a little beating on the handle itself to no avail. Anyone have a trick to getting this thing off without torching it off. I soaked it with PB blaster also.
Thanks for the service manual Merk, it helped out a lot.
Steering is next on the new 149 I brought home. I will also perform the same fix to it's hydro as I did today.

I have been thinking about that plastic sleeve today. Would a brass sleeve work better than the plastic sleeve. Any thoughts on that?

what size shims did you use to take up the slack? I was thinking about doing the same thing.

I didn't measure them, it was some I already had so I just place them on in variations until I got the desired fit. I don't have a micrometer so I don't know the thickness of what I used. I probably didn't get it as tight as I could. I may get some .010 as it may take one or two of them to make it perfect.

How long ago did the plastic sleeve wear out,who knows!!!Id imagine brass would work good and last forever in that application but how hard would it be to find a brass sleeve,might be able to make one.Id imagine the plastic will work for a looong time!!I dont know anything about removing the handel besides heat but thats a chrome peice isnt it?could you rig something u on the end of a slide hammer,or make a slide hammer you can tuck under the handel and tap away?You would probably want to do a bunch of softer hits than a few real hard ones though.
Good luck,
Jason
Somewhere I got the shim sizes and thicknesses if I can find them Ill post the info.

Richard C and Matt G did a write up on trunion repair...............Matt/Richard what size were the shims and thickness I thought I priinted or saved the write up but no go!!!!!

I bought a mixture of .010" and .005" shims from McMaster-Carr and I put on the 10 thou ones 'til I can't get the snap ring on, take one off, and replace it with a 5 thou one.

I would like to take up the slop in my lever on my 127 as well but I am not sure how to access the area. What did you have to remove to access the bracket area?

[QUOTE=papaglide;6576]I would like to take up the slop in my lever on my 127 as well but I am not sure how to access the area. What did you have to remove to access the bracket area?[/QUOTE

Just the tunnel cover to get to the bracket. The manual that was posted earlier really helped me out, it gives good step by step instructions.

[QUOTE=cub149;6602]127 is a narrow frame, so there's no removable tunnel cover. Unfortunately, you pretty much have to split the tractor to fix it. The only series of tractor that is less fun to do driveshaft/trans work on than the diesels are the 107/127/147.