carb rebuild
 

Does any one have the Kohler numbers for the carb rebuild kit for the 10 horse motor with the Kohler carb. I am almost certain it is the Kohler carb by looking at the pics i found. It does not have a name on it and it has three adjusting screws.
Is there a master rebuild kit? all gaskets, float, needle seat, idle and fuel adjusting screws, throttle shaft bushing, or do i have to buy things separate.

If so, can i have the part numbers of each or please send me just a link with the info.
thank you

Your carb should be a #26, look down the throat behind choke butterfly, should have a raise 26 cast into the top of the carb between the choke and throttle plates. It uses a KH-25-757-01 kit...here is a link to look up the part numbers from parts tree, you will se the carb rebuild kit under item number 26, ironically:

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0012400003

Member Mattg has his own cub site, go there and he has a very nice how to rebuild your carb!

You need to buy the three parts separately, the float is part number (item 21 on parts tree diagram) KH-25-757-03S and see the pic for part number on the throttle shaft bushing!

Attachment 10958

thanks,
does the kit also come with the needle and seat and the high,low, and idle springs and needles?
thank you again

The kit comes with a new needle and seat, the bowl gasket, the bowl baffle gasket, and the gasket that goes on the nut that holds the bowl on. Your old springs and high and low needles should be re-useable after some cleaning. If you need those items, they have to be bought separately. The site sponsors have are a good place to order these parts, or go buy you local cub dealer, he most likely has them in stock, or can order them for you saving on the shipping. I ordered my parts from Chis Westfall, Cub Classics, at the top of the page....however, he has run into a snag on the float kits, I am still waiting to get mine, they are on back order!

Here is the link to Mattg's how to rebuild your carb:

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf

Here is what my carb looked like prior to rebuild:
Attachment 10968

Here is what it looked like afterwards:
Attachment 10969

I was bored (waiting on parts and what not) so I buffed the case of the carb and the brass parts with a stainless steel brush in my dremel tool, then I wet sanded the bowl with 400, then 100 grit wet/ dry sandpaper and buffed it out to a mirror finish (mother's mag wheel/ aluminum polish)....it looks better in person!

thanks
sorry, one last question. what about the gastket inbetween the block and the carb?

that carb looks sexy.

Does not include that gasket either, or the gasket that goes between the carb and air cleaner.

Thanks, it turned out pretty good, oh by the way, just got word from Chris Westfall, the carb floats are in and mine is headed my way!

Did you look at Mattg's how to? It says he thinks the butterfly screws are #3-48, that is correct, only remove the ones in throttle shaft, I removed the ones in the choke shaft as well and caused nothing but headaches, they are very easy to twist off and very hard to remove once twisted off, trust me I know, I twisted off a total of 6 during dissassembly/reassembly! Follow Matt's advice and order a set of steel screws and lock washers (don't order the brass ones, they are 4 of the 6 I twisted off!) for the throttle butterfly, will make putting it back together so much easier!

I picked up the screws to replace mine at my local hardware store for 16 cents each. #3-48. Dont forget the loctite.

The last carb rebuild I did I didn't even take the butterflys out. Didn't have any problems and the 125 runs so sweet!

LOL HA I totally agree. I think I might try that one day. I really like how that looks

yes, I looked at matt's how-to. Very informative. Thanks. I will be using it during the rebuild of course. This week I am going to order all my parts from Chris Whestfall. Why does he show his carb kit ending in an S? It shows 25 757 01 S. What does that mean? I will go and get the screws at my local ACE. They have a HUGE section of nuts, bolts, stainless, etc.

My local hardware store did not carry that size, the smallest they had were #4....I had to order some from fastenal, they were cheap too but the shipping it bumped up the price to around $8.50. I could have drove to a larger town and probably found them, but with gas nearing $4.00/ gallon, I did not think the $8.50 was that out of line.

what are the locations of the low idle screw, and high idle screw. I have looked at pics and manuals and not one gives a specific answer to what screw is what. the closest i got was the main needle. that does not help me with adjusting the low and high idle. i need to know what the main needle is?

what is the top screw
what is the side screw under the idle speed screw?
thanks
mike

was the throttle shaft supposed to have a rubber O ring in it and the brass bushing was the upgrade? or did someone just do something really stupid?

Hope this helps you out some. :beerchug:

yes, it helped out a lot.
It,s great fixing other people's fine mechanic skills to make things work how they should.
What really upsets me is the guy we bought the tractor from said it was a brand new carb. Just looking at it, the carb did look new. It was nice and shiny on the outside but on the inside nothing was done correctly.
thanks,
mike

Don't forget the big fat gasket (spacer) that goes between the carb, the carb gasket and the block. It's a quarter inch thick and will improve performance.

Good timing on this. I just started up the 108 and gas gushed out the air cleaner and bowl like a faucet was turned on. Guess I'm next, huh? I've never been inside a carb before. But I have to rebuild my Kawasaki carbs soon so I think this will be a relatively painless introduction compared to that...

Put it this way... short of setting the correct adjustment of the float, you could do these things with your eyes closed. :biggrin2:

So true!:beer2:

Nevertheless, I think I'll try at least the first one with eyes open.

That's a good plan but the second one we want a video of you doing blind folded.:biggrin2:

:bigeyes: Ha! Would me doing it without my glasses qualify? LOL

I do it with my feet.while sleeping,with my eyes open and driving.
I bought a carb kit a long time ago and it came with a gauge to adjust the bowl height,haven't seen one of those anymore.

Does anyone have Matt's carb rebuild pdf mirrored somewhere? if not they should....I've tried to download it 10 times and I encounter server errors every time. Doesnt help being on dialup but this problem is on the server not my end.

I sent you a private message.

I've got the carb soaking, except for the float needle since it has rubber on it. I noticed the float needle is square in x-section, while the one in the kit is triangular. Not sure if it matters, as the kit came with the brass thingie (ahh, is there a better word than thingie?) that it mates into so they are presumably a match, and presumably if I replace both together they everything will be fine. But I hate presuming or assuming anything about things which I know nothing.

And uh..just noticed now after pulling everything out that there is some liquid in the float. The engine ran just fine and I'm guessing it was in there all along.I know I should replace it, but I'm quite broke. Can I get by with it this way for a month or two?

:) Your presumption is correct. The brass seat is a bit of a pain to get out, but it can be done. Seems like I remember someone in here describing how they were able to get theirs out fairly easy. Hopefully someone will chime in.

No, there was nothing that was hard to get out. The part I'm referring to is (I think) the float needle. It has a rubber tip on it. Its the thing in the middle right of the first picture in that pdf you kindly sent me. It fits into that brass thing right above it in the picture. Both came out fine. I was just curious why the new one has a different x-section shape.

if your float is taking on fuel, it is no good. Kind of defeats the purpose of the part.

You may be able to figure out where it leaks and patch it with some solder for a quick fix.

I use my craftsman nut driver to get mine out. Some have used a grinder to thin the walls of a socket but that seems rash to me.:beer2:

No worries on the two styles both will work fine. And there is no need to keep it a new one comes in the rebuld kit.

I loosened/tightened mine with a pair of pliers rather than chewing up a socket.

I wish I knew what you guys are taking out with sockets and nut drivers, cause whatever it is mine must still be in there.

The part that your needle with the rubber tip sits in.

That is what I was talking about sorry. I originally tried to fit a socket on it but you need a very thin walled socket and I didn't want to modify my snap on stuff. They won't replace it when it breaks that way.

Oh, you mean the thingie? Mine was easy, it is slotted for a screwdriver...

I cant find any leakage from the float so I cant find a hole. I did find a spot where it looks like somebody before me may have sealed the gas inside. Hmmmm... I'll price them tomorrow and if they are free I'll get one. :biggrin2:

ok,
installed the new kit. went super easy. now, my problem. installed the O ring and the float baffle then the screw for the bowl. the screw is now leaking gas. It has the new gasket washer thing on it and the screw is tight.
Is their another way to stop the screw from leaking? washer on the inside too? orange plumbers tape around the last two threads?
It just seems it's one thing after another.

I have had that problem for years on my 108. I just tinkered with that screw, sometimes tightening it beyond what I thought was smart, and sometimes backing it off a little. It never worked 100% for long. Its a frustrating problem. I was hoping it might stop when I replace the gasket in my kit, but maybe not...

I'm happy to say my 108 carb rebuild is done, and it even runs! Next time the blindfold, for sure. :biggrin2:

Unfortunately mine leaked a bit too afterward. I think I have it stopped now after tightening up a bit, but only time will tell. Cub108, I wonder if the bottom if the bowl gets a bit bent out of shape after a while? I had that idea after installing mine, so I couldn't check it. Hope you solve your leak soon.

Congrats Wayne! I knew you could do it! They do sell replacement bowls. Next blind folded with the video camera recording it too!:beer2:

Glad you got it straightened out, Wayne! :beerchug: