Sleeve hitch
 

I bought a hydro lift hitch on ebay for a wide frame cub and I cannot figure out how it is supposed to attach to my tractor. I have an 1811 hydro and it has a bunch of holes on the frame rails at the rear but the obvious holes are way too big for the pivot bar to fit in. And the bracket has holes in it that do not match any on my rear cover plate. Can someone please send a picture of you hitch and how it attaches?I figures that any wide frame cub would accept any wide frame hitch. I guess I was wrong. Also, I am going to install an oil pressure gage on my 1811 and was wondering if the sender for the idiot light is just an on/off switch or a true sender. Does anyone know? Also, what is the diameter of the threaded part of the oil switch? I love this beast and would appreciate any help with it. I just found another post with the same question about the exact same hitch. It looks like the one I bought is for an older model and does not fit my 1811. I have a four bolt bottom tranny plate not the three hole model and the picture from the other post shows bushings welded inside of the frame rails that match the diameter of the piviot shaft. Anyone looking for an older wide frame hitch? I would be glad to trade for one that I can use.

As for the pivot rod, you will need two Frankenstein bolts to hold the cast lift on with. You will see in my picture what looks like a large bolt on each side and a nut that holds each on from the inside of the frame. Each bolt has a pivot point for the lift to fit onto. I am not sure if the back of your 1811 looks like my 782 but if it does this is how everything fits. The lift bar that attaches to the hydro lift is a straight bar with a hole at each end.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...2/DSC01836.jpg

Lift bar installation:
Attachment 10260

three point hitch
 

Thanks for the great picture. I found the bolts that you mentioned and ordered them from one of our sponsors above. He also told me that due to the aluminum rear end that I would need to order a bracket that goes under the axles and ties into the bolts there as well as the tranny rear plate. He said that Extreme motors makes it. I guess it shows that the newer these things got the less beef there was in them. Once again thanks for the quick response and picture.
Rudy

Glad I could be of help. Yes even tho it may not have the cast iron like some of the older ones, it is still 100X better than most GT's sold today. Just my opinion. I would love to have an 1811 too.

Frankenstien bolts wont work with your 1811. Your going to have to weld a plate on each side. The holes are like an inch and the bolts wont work. I made the plates and made a lower bracket that wraped around the side of the rear. I'll try to find pictures.

Frankenstien bolts
 

I think we are talking about two different type of bolts. The ones I am referring to are these sold by one of our sponsors and he calls them Frankenstien bolts. They are the same diameter as the large hole you are referring to in the rear frame rails. They have just enough thread on them to accept a nut on the inside of each rail and then about one inch of the bolt has been necked down to the diameter of the hole in the casting that normally has a pivot rod through it. I have included a picture of the bolts so that it may be a little clearer. I also bought a lower bracket made for aluminum plates that ties into the axle bolts as well as the rear tranny cover bolts due to the inherent weakness of aluminum over steel.. It came from extreme motorworks.

Some people mistake the frame bolts that the mule drive slides onto as Frankenstein bolts. They are much smaller in size.

Frankenstien bolts installed
 

I got the two Frankenstien bolts today and put them in in about three minutes. Here are a couple of pictures of them. I got them from Patton's above and he gave me a $5 break on them.

Looking good. Now all you need is the lift bar and the lower two point. :beerchug:
Also as a note, that pin is set for a tiller. The hole at the end should be horizontal for plows and the lift straps.

lift pin
 

Is it possible to just pull the cotter pin and rotate it 90 degrees and drill another hole? I plan on using it to lift most of the time. If anyone has a good plan for a lift device I sure would like to see it.
Thanks,
Rudy

Should be easily done...

Simple lift device
 

I have seen the device at EXTREME MOTORWORKS with the two forks for lifting but was wondering if anyone had a simpler idea or one that was at least less expensive? Now that I have my lift bar installed I'm ready to get on with the next step.

Wrong lift arm??????
 

I went to install the lift arm for my three point hitch and discovered that it is the wrong bar. The one I have came with a small piece with a built in pivot pin with a cotter pin hole and two threaded holes holes with bolts. It looks like the kind I need is the one with a countersunk forward hole for the 2 1/2 pin to fit through and the head of the pin to fit flush with the lift bar. Can someone tell me what I would call this kind of bar? And can someone tell me what the other piece I got with my bar is used for? Is there any way that I can use the one I have with maybe a sleeve in the big hole to bring it to a 1/2 inch size. The one I have also has a bend in it but only on one end. Is the bent end for the forward end or the aft? Thanks.

The bar you are describing is for a manual lift. I had to order a new lift bar for my 782 also. I got mine from:
http://ccspecialties.org/3points_sleevehitches.html

Patton's may have one if you want to try them. It was $45 from ccspecialties.

Here is what the bar looks like. I do have the specs if you have someone near you that could make it.
Attachment 11150

That's my bar
 

Thank you for the info. I just ordered one of the bars you show. The link you gave has a good selection of items if they cannot be found on ebay. I went ahead and ordered Hy-tran from them because it is like looking for the holy grail here in Atlanta. Everyone tells me that Hy-Tran is just an abbreviation for hydraulic transmission and that they are all the same. Even the cub cadet dealer!

I'm glad you got the correct bar ordered.

You've been mislead by "everyone" even your cub dealer. Please read this and compare and see if the other stuff matches up.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4627

At a cub dealer, the name for Hy-tran is "Hydraulic Transmission Fluid". Exact same stuff, just different name.

AJ

lift arm for my 1811
 

I had ordered a new lift arm from CC specialties but after two weeks and one reply to my e-mails I was told it was UPS's fault. I told him to cancel the order. I have an inquiry at Patton's but havent heard back from him yet. The last time I ordered from Patton's he was on a ladder working on his house and he mailed the part that morning! Does anyone know of another source for the hydro lift arm? Also, if anyone has the specs for it I would be obliged if you would post them here.
Thanks

Have you called Chris at Cub Classics yet? And Rich is on his game every day all day!

If it hasn't been mentioned yet, be careful how you connect the bottom bracket piece to the aluminum rear.

Send me a PM I have what you need.

aluminum rear warning
 

Thanks for the warning. I ordered a bracket from Extreme motors that has two extra bolt holes that go around the axel housing and uses two of those bolts which are 90 degrees to the tranny cover. I will not be pulling that much stuff anyway. I appreciate how everyone chimes in with their knowledge to help the other members. I guess if you own a CC you are already in a special group!:beerchug:

Hooray!
 

I finally got the correct lift arm today from juniors1282 (Eric) in the mail and it fit perfectly. Other than the red color it was perfect :biggrin2:. I hooked it up to the three point hitch and tried it out. Man that thing is strong! I weigh about 240 and with me sitting on it it didn't even strain. Extreme is making me a lift and as soon as I get I will send pictures. My back feels better already!

The back of my 1811 is different that the picture you posted. I think there was a production cut of when the frames where made. I had to weld plates where you bolted the franteistien bolts. Yours was easy. I made the lower bracket like extreme works. I've had my lift on for about 4 years. That was before he started to produce his. He does make a great product. I have pictures on my laptop and not on this cp.

Your back end
 

I would love to see the later backend of your tractor. I can't imagine saving that much money by eliminating the two side plates. Of course the big three wasted years by not using stainless steel bolts and screws when they could have to save a handful of coins. The bean counters in a big company have the final say on the bottom line and when they see a few dollars in savings they take it no matter the loss of reputation.