Here you can see the points fully open at .016" with the adjustment maxed out in the direction that would provide more of a gap/spark advance. I reinstalled the off-brand points set for this pic. When the Kohler comes in I'll do the same.

Cam throw
 

Cam throw can be easily checked if you have a travel, or dial indicator. Remove the points mountil the indicator, with the point on the end of the push rod, rotate the enine to find the lowest point set the indicator to 0 rotate the engine to find the higest point. That is the cam throw. You can do this without disassembling the engine. Based only on what I have seen, one only a few kohler k engines, the point gap after static timing, will be considerably less than the .020 given in the book. However I haven't actually measured and logged the gap after static timing.

If I can make a suggestion, if the new Kohler points do no allow for any more adjustment take a small rattail file like used to sharpen chain saws and open up the screw slot to allow more adjustment. I had the same issue on a K241 in my 100 that I restored about 15 years ago and after opening up the slot I was able to get it in time and it is still going strong today.
Tom

You can just use a set of calipers too....


Another good idea.

It doesn't matter really what you do to get more "gap" (advancement) as long as you do. File the hole, weld up the end of the pushrod, hell, even put a dab of JB Weld on the point end of the rod will make it longer. It will all work, and much, much cheaper than tearing down the engine.

Put the Kohler points in see what you get.

With 10 years of automotive and machine experience, this really shouldn't be that complicated. :BlahBlah:

I agree. Thanks for everyone chiming in. I'll keep you updated. I'm not a quick and easy fix kinda guy. I like to understand the nature of the problem because in my experience not understanding why the problem occurred in the first place ends up biting you in the rear at a later date.

As a side note, filing out the hole on the bracket will not work because the head of the screw is backed against the bend of the bracket, it's literally adjusted as far as it can be.

On those points... Kohler points have a different base.

The problem is the motor is 40 years old. Things wear out over time. Not a difficult problem to identify or fix.

Is it possible that bending the little tab that holds the stationary "point" a little will give you gap that you need?

Or could it be bent already, causing the problem?

What is happening is the screw that attaches the wire to the coil is too long and hitting the points cam.You can see it in the picture.When you go to open up the gap the plastic cam hits the screw.
Cheapy points have that problem.

BTDT

I'm not trying to do much more diagnosis or theorizing until the Kohler points arrive, but I was intrigued by the notion that the screw for the lead was too long. I was hoping that I had missed that, as stupid as I would feel, it would be gratifying to know that it was the cause. Alas, it was not. There is quite a bit of movement in the cam before it ever hits that screw. The picture above is deceptive, so i decided to take another look and add some documentation for future reference.

Thanks again for everyone's input.