Only Cub Cadets - My 125 is driving me insane.

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could be the S/G. could be the ACR. the S/G could be bad due to a bad ACR.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe (Post 265357)

could be the S/G. could be the ACR. the S/G could be bad due to a bad ACR.

So whats the fix to the ACR?

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw (Post 265344)

You got it then, That is the compression stroke and if you look in the sight hole you should soon see the S coming up followed by the T. That's the top dead center.

Your running behind a little on this one bud. He's past the point of finding TDC. He's already set the valves and timing. Now were trying to get it to crank correctly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gfann (Post 265378)

So whats the fix to the ACR?

I want to say again, I really think you should just take this to a mechanic. An experienced one probably wouldn't take long getting it fixed. That said.....

Ok. Here we go. Well start at the beginning.

ACR=Automatic Compression Release

How it works:
Holds the exhaust valve just slightly open on the compression stroke. Closes the valve just before TDC. It uses a set of flyweights and a small spring to achieve this. (See pic 1). The small spring holds the weights in position to activate the ACR and open the exhaust valve. When the motor starts, the cam speeds up to overcome the spring pressure swinging the flyweights out of the way and de-activating the ACR. If the spring is not attached correctly, the ACR will de-activate too soon and thus not do it's job. The same will also occur if the valves are not adjusted correctly. (Too far a gap.) The springs need to be attached correctly, and not broken (see pic 2). You can access the spring from the cam cover. (That's the big bulging cover right next to the points.) Take it off and see if the spring has become disconnected, or if it is broken.

Flyweights (pic 1):

Attachment 52370

Spring (pic 2):

Attachment 52372

Now, your S/G is probably bad too. (Or at least from your description, it sounds as though it is.) Plus, you continuing to hold the key on trying to crank it when it wasn't, didn't do it any favors.

Read this first: Delco-Remy S/G

Take it apart, clean the commutator with emry cloth, as well as the brushes. Be careful no to take too much metal off the brushes, as they are soft and it's easy to do. You may also find them just simply wore out. Doing all of this is no guarantee, as the armature may be bad, but that's going to be hard for you to test. Spray the guts off with brake cleaner, or electric motor cleaner and blow them dry. Make sure to mark the housings to make it easier for reassembly.

Nice write-up Jonathon!:beerchug:

It's Technical Thursday that lands on Friday.:biggrin2:

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 265407)

Your running behind a little on this one bud. He's past the point of finding TDC. He's already set the valves and timing. Now were trying to get it to crank correctly.

I want to say again, I really think you should just take this to a mechanic. An experienced one probably wouldn't take long getting it fixed. That said.....

Ok. Here we go. Well start at the beginning.

ACR=Automatic Compression Release

How it works:
Holds the exhaust valve just slightly open on the compression stroke. Closes the valve just before TDC. It uses a set of flyweights and a small spring to achieve this. (See pic 1). The small spring holds the weights in position to activate the ACR and open the exhaust valve. When the motor starts, the cam speeds up to overcome the spring pressure swinging the flyweights out of the way and de-activating the ACR. If the spring is not attached correctly, the ACR will de-activate too soon and thus not do it's job. The same will also occur if the valves are not adjusted correctly. (Too far a gap.) The springs need to be attached correctly, and not broken (see pic 2). You can access the spring from the cam cover. (That's the big bulging cover right next to the points.) Take it off and see if the spring has become disconnected, or if it is broken.

Flyweights (pic 1):

Attachment 52370

Spring (pic 2):

Attachment 52372

Now, your S/G is probably bad too. (Or at least from your description, it sounds as though it is.) Plus, you continuing to hold the key on trying to crank it when it wasn't, didn't do it any favors.

Read this first: Delco-Remy S/G

Take it apart, clean the commutator with emry cloth, as well as the brushes. Be careful no to take too much metal off the brushes, as they are soft and it's easy to do. You may also find them just simply wore out. Doing all of this is no guarantee, as the armature may be bad, but that's going to be hard for you to test. Spray the guts off with brake cleaner, or electric motor cleaner and blow them dry. Make sure to mark the housings to make it easier for reassembly.

Very good info. Much appreciated.
The only other comments I can add to the issue of the S/G and the ACR, is that I did change the starter with another at one point early on, and got the same result. However the Replacement S/G was a used one. I guess what I'm saying is it sort of leans the starting issue in favor of the ACR being the cause of the trouble. But at this point it could be the starter as well do to the excessive cranking.

The tractor did Run initially, then got worse quickly to the point of not running and simply spinning slowly like it is now. which also seems, to me, like it would lean towards the ACR being the problem. If I'm understanding everything correctly. I'll look into the ACR panel that you referenced to see what it looks like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=Y1_s0UwP8zg

Here is a video of the ACR cover off while I rotate the engine. I only see one side of the spring. and one of the weights sort of flaps. Can you guys give me your thoughts on that? Thanks.

Ok. Getting frustrated again. If the spring doesn't look EXACTLY like my pic, it's broken, or fell off. FIX IT!!:bash2:

Nothing to think about. Either one side of the spring is broken off or it has came unhooked. If it has came unhooked just loop it back over the outside of the cam ACR plate like the other one is. If it has broken it will need to be replaced. :beerchug:

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 265639)

Ok. Getting frustrated again. If the spring doesn't look EXACTLY like my pic, it's broken, or fell off. FIX IT!!:bash2:

RELAX! :RollEyes2:

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs (Post 265640)

Yea I did that.
I reset the spring on one side. Looks better. I reassembled everything. Then I tried "starting" it. Did the same thing as before. Right now I'm looking at the S/G. I took it apart going through the manual about cleaning it and testing it for shorts. The interior was covered in black dust from the brushes. They are worn down. They are still about 3/4 of an inch. long. Not sure how long they should be when new or in good shape.