You need to put the tins back on. They are for cooling.

Your exhaust pipe is too short, it will kill power. Better off with a muffler than that.

I think drilling that main was a mistake. Brian Miller is poor guy to get info from. It's about 25 or 30 year old info. Better ways of doing stuff that what he spouts. You mixed info from Kirk and Brian Miller..... should have stuck with Kirk, he's far smarter and a better builder.... but he does a lot of unnecessary stuff too...

1400 RPM idle is too fast, slow it down. 1K is not any too slow.

Yeah, the tins are all going back on, as soon as I get my new muffler. I just can't stand all that noise from that straight pipe!, and the exhaust and heat in my face, for three hours of mowing! The drain pipe for a stack was just a quick fix to keep me going 'til I could come up with another 100 for a new muffler. This is worse than a boat, it's like a hole in my shed floor that I pour money into. And I'm sure as soon as I put all those tins back together some little rodent is going to turn it into a Holiday Inn!! D@m little rat turd b@$t@rd$!!!,:bash2:

sorry,..

thanks guys.

Finally got around to putting the tins back on.

And installed this OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029) from here;

http://ccspecialties.org/engine_exhaust.html

Now I just have to make a muffler brace like this;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...131#post482131

Thanks Roland.

I got busted...
 

Got a surprise visit from Quality Control today...

Old parts list / new Quotes
 

So this list represents some of the items that I have purchased for the repair/upgrade of my International Cub Cadet 1200. I know many of these parts are available through various suppliers. I am not advocating one over the other. I think it's important to support the people that support this site. So, in the "for what it's worth" column...

Ace Hardware
Assorted fasteners
Paint
Thread locker

Amazon
Air filter K & N (part # E-4655)
Carlisle Turf Master 16 x 6.5 – 8 front tires
condensor Primeline (part # 7-01338)
Grote tail lights (part # 47732)
Metal valve stems
Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)
Rear work light
Spark plug Champion H8-C
Starter relay ( part # 725-3001/925-3001 )

http://www.ccspecialties.org/
axle tube outer bearing (part # 941-0363)
axle tube seal (part # 921-0187)
carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)
clutch throwout bearing (part # 941 - 3056)
OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029)
Oil pan gasket (part # 235353-S)
PTO switch (part # 925-3022/725-3022)
rear end cover plate gasket (part # 350837-R3)
spring assist (part # PN/ IH-548380-R91)
thermal isolation gasket (part # 47-049-01)
throttle shaft bushing (part # 25-158-02-S)

http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
blue spring
flex coupling disc page 4 on Cub Cadet parts, part # 722-3000, Yea, it's A RAG joint!
teaser spring part #932 3017
ball bushing part #941-3004

Ebay
Kohler Governor Gear Kit A-235743-S

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/
Governor gear kit
Governor shaft bushing (part # 23576)
Governor shaft (part # KH-A-235256-S)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins #91598A526
Vinyl door edge # 8451A47
Tie rod ends #4444T931
Clamp on shaft collars #6436K15
Spring Steel Round Shim, 0.005" Thick, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD # 90482A125

http://midwestsupercub.net/MWSC2015.pdf
Clutch friction disc, Kevlar/fiberglass item # KD

Cedar Rapids tire
4 bolt on 4"front rims

Napa
5 gallon bucket of hytran equivalent (meets or exceeds International B-6 Specification)

Northern Tool
4 bolt wheel hub
1" weld on spindle

http://www.tirechain.com/23X10.50X12.htm

Zach Kerber Machine
6 pin driver
Blue Spring
Drive shaft
head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)
Solid engine mounts

Quotes;

dvogtvpe: stockers need torque. more the better. all that torque is made down in the 2800 to 3400 range. so the thinking you will gain power by running 4000 is not true, set your governor to 3800 to 3900 and don't worry about it. stuff to concentrate on is things that make torque. compression, advanced timing , a good valve job to improve air flow and flywheel weight are common things that help with that. coils, velocity stacks , K&N filters really in the big picture don't do much of anything

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...3&postcount=68

j-mech; Checking piston to bore fit with a feeler (ribbon) gauge

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...530#post464530

Index
 

Point of future edit?

or something...

WOW!

Just read through all of this. Thanks for taking the time to detail everything you did. I hope to not need to do this much work to my 1200 in the near future. I also liked the wooden jig tutorial. I'm not a welder so if I need to replace a clutch, that will come in handy.

FWIW Briggs & Stratton changed their recommendations for synthetic oils. They now say 5W-30 full synthetic is good for ALL temperature ranges. I'm curious to see how the 10W does for you. Since I run 5W-30 in both my Subarus, I used it on my push mower. I'm probably going to put SAE30 in the Cub for now though.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/...ecommendations

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/...n-your-engines

Dang!, this deck's been makin' lots of noise. :bigthink: Guess it's time to get into it.

Think I found the problem...:bash2: Figure if this is what one looks like, I better check them all out.

First I cleaned 45 years of brown crud from the "Water Pump" style spindles, spindle housings and spindle housing caps.

As one of the press in type grease fittings was loose, I used a 1/4" - 28 tap to thread the top of the spindle for a screw in type zerk. :beerchug:

Ordered one new ST-745 spindle (part # 741-3001).

And a few new 3/8" - 16 x 1 1/4" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and hex nuts.

It 's worth pointing out that if there seems to be play in a spindle as it is mounted on the mower deck, the problem may also be a worn spindle housing (part # 903-0117) and spindle housing cap (part # 703-0115-0499). These items act as a "race" for the body of the spindle and may also need to be replaced. :angry:

Luckily there were no rust holes in the deck shell, just some surface rust underneath. Spread some POR 15 on the bottom;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VVL0S...I1XH6J0POY1AWU

and some EZ Slide on top of that from Tractor Supply;

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...t?cm_vc=IOPDP1

Welded on a couple of deck wheel brackets that I got from xtreme;

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html

and bolted on some deck wheels, Stens part #210-169 Plastic Deck Wheel Kit ;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015MNGYE...BAM9FAH3&psc=1

Cleaned up all the rust under the plate and coated that area with a couple of coats of rusty metal primer, and then painted everything with some of this stuff that I picked up at Home Depot;

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...2830/100144785

Color was good and price was cheap!:ThumbsUp:

Before I re installed the plate, I applied a thin coat of grease between it and the top of the deck shell.

It actually took me quite a while to figure out that the idler arm and the pivot bolt (MTD 638-04012A Cub Cadet Shoulder Bolt) were really two separate pieces! Really!?

So,.. center and cross drill. Tap and zerk!

Might help..:bigthink:

Got a new 1/2” x 80” belt;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018U053I...I3VCBPYTBZ8LYX

I also ordered up a 1/2" x 78" belt for my model 44a deck;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018TYBM0...=I10EPB1ZY41S0

and a couple of new Stens v-idler pulleys (part # 280-188) for my mule drive off of ebay;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sten-280-188...cAAOSwEK9T25MO

Greased up the spindles and sharpened the blades and back to knocking down the weeds. Wow, this thing really cuts nice, love those front deck wheels.:beerchug:

Lookin good David that 1200 uses the wider belt right? Just got a 1200 and the ol boy crawfished on a deck --so i already have a
44a off a 129-uses a thin belt but this 1200 needs the wider one right? Got the carb soakin maybe mow w/it soon.

Thanks Brian. If your 1200 has the right PTO and the right mule drive it should all take the type A, 1/2" belt. (Which I would call the "thin" belt) The wider type B, 5/8" belt would be for the 82 series tractors with the 4" diameter pulleys on the mule and the 44c deck.

Your deck is looking great!

This is where I am confused.

I tore up 2 - 1/2" x 81" belts on my 1200. (here is one http://www.ebay.com/itm/CASE-IH-4734...oAAOSwKtVWzSh0) The other was from TSC.

The sides kept tearing and shredding. It looked like it was rubbing on the sides. It was also VERY hard to get it on, as though it was too short.

Then I looked up the belt size through cubcadet.com and it showed a 3/8" x 81" belt. P/N IH-473462-R4

I also used the belt reference in the tech section and it showed a 3/8 x 81" belt.

I ordered a 3V810 belt and put it on, and it fits great. Used it for 3 hours and had no issues with the belt. I simply had to tighten it up a little bit after an hour or so.

Oh, and great work, as usual, on the mower deck!

Thanks Allen! You havin' any luck findin' a new tractor?

:bigthink:, me too Jason. I have 4 QuietLines, 2, 44 decks and 1 44a deck. All came with 1/2" belts and have always worked fine. Got turned onto the Aramid belts through this thread;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...1&postcount=25

...but Maxwelhse is running a wide frame, do they use a different belt?

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...1&postcount=25

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...53&postcount=9

How are your mule drive pulleys? maybe the're tearing up the sides of your belts?:bigthink:

For what it's worth I have a 1/2"x79" On my 1200 with a 44A deck. Haven't had any problems. I got it from tsc. Works for me!

Thanks Allen! You havin' any luck findin' a new tractor?

Anytime! I sure have! It will be coming home soon. Stay tuned! :biggrin2:

Here is the manual I was using

http://www.cubcadet.info/Manuels/Bel..._1947-2004.pdf

And here is a screenshot of what I am referencing. (pgs B4 and E14)

I have a 38" deck, I think it's a 38A, but it's the same P/N regardless. I also looked at the 44A deck and it also says a 3/8 belt :confused:

From page 20;

From page 20;

From page 21;

As a follow up to this I have since switched to Shell Rotella 30 wt. Good oil, good price;

https://www.walmart.com/ip/14958325?...&wl13=&veh=sem

:beerchug:

Glad you wake up this thread!
I guest you switch back to 10w-30 next winter David :beerchug:
I project to use Royal Purple assembly oil + Brake in oil for the K321 I'm rebuilding and after 10hr I switch back to 10w-30 for the winter until the meter hit 50hr after that he goes back to 30w.

Sounds like a plan!:beerchug:
__________________________________________________ _________________________________________

temporary storage...

If the oil pan threads are sloppy you can helicoil it like this;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...&postcount=168

But if its damaged from rubbing on the frame rails you might look for a cast pan to replace it.

Oil pan gasket part # 235353-S

Pull the head and plane like others have said. Check out olds45512 video on that;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...95&postcount=1

De carbon the head, piston top, valves and lifter galley;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...223#post338223

head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)

Rebuild the carb;

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf

carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)

Check the ball bushings at the engine drive coupling and at the transmission input yoke to see how much play there is in relation to the drive shaft ends. If either is to sloppy you may need to replace them and or you driveshaft. Jeff in PA can set you up with the solid motor mounts, drive shaft and the ball bushings if you need.

Get a set of new Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)

And set the timing using the static method;

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

Make a steering wheel puller;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...647#post362647

And upgrade your steering;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...639#post361639

Sorry, that's all I got for now..
__________________________________________________ _____

Random info;

unsubstantiated...:bigthink:

Sickle Bars – Side Mount:
Haban 401D for 8, 10, 12, and 14 hp Jacobsen / Ford garden tractors (64'-71')
Haban 402A IH Cub Cadet (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 402C Fits IH cub cadet 70,100,71,102,122,123.
Haban 402D, 402E, IH Cub Cadet
Haban 403A Massey Ferguson
Haban 405, 405A, 415, 415A Bolens
Haban 406 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)
Haban 408D Case (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 409 Ariens
Haban 413 Gravely
Haban 414 Wheel Horse
Haban 416 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)
Haban 416A John Deere
Haban 420W John Deere (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 425 Bolens QT and QS Tractors
Haban 426 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)

Parts List
 

Ten characters minimum required? :bigthink:

Don't mind me.

So this list represents some of the items that I have purchased for the repair/upgrade of my International Cub Cadet 1200. I know many of these parts are available through various suppliers. I am not advocating one over the other. I think it's important to support the people that support this site. So, in the "for what it's worth" column...

Ace Hardware
Assorted fasteners
Paint
Thread locker

Amazon
Air filter K & N (part # E-4655)
Carlisle Turf Master 16 x 6.5 – 8 front tires
condensor Primeline (part # 7-01338)
Grote tail lights (part # 47732)
Metal valve stems
Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)
Rear work light
Spark plug Champion H8-C
Starter relay ( part # 725-3001/925-3001 )
Hydro filter Stens #120-265

http://www.ccspecialties.org/
axle tube outer bearing (part # 941-0363)
axle tube seal (part # 921-0187)
carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)
clutch throwout bearing (part # 941 - 3056)
Deck; spindle ST-745 spindle (part # 741-3001)
spindle housing cap (part # 703-0115-0499)
spindle housing (part # 903-0117)
OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029)
Oil pan gasket (part # 235353-S)
PTO switch (part # 925-3022/725-3022)
rear end cover plate gasket (part # 350837-R3)
spark plug grommet, Kohler (part # 47 313 01-S)
spring assist (part # PN/ IH-548380-R91)
thermal isolation gasket (part # 47-049-01)
throttle shaft bushing (part # 25-158-02-S)

http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
blue spring
flex coupling disc page 4 on Cub Cadet parts, part # 722-3000, Yea, it's A RAG joint!
teaser spring part #932 3017
ball bushing part #941-3004

Ebay
Kohler Governor Gear Kit A-235743-S

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/
Camshaft shim .005" (part # 275066-S)
Camshaft shim .01" (part # 275067-S)
Governor gear kit (part # A235743S)
Governor shaft bushing (part # 23576)
Governor shaft (part # KH-A-235256-S)

It should be noted that without our sponsors like Mark Hellrung, this site might not exist. Mark supplies a wide variety of new Cub Cadet parts, he reproduces no longer available Cub Cadet parts, he is a custom metal fabricator and provides machine services. Mark's continued support of us through his daily input on this site deserves a "check Mark first", here, and here, for any items that are needed for your project.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins for clutch rebuild #91598A526
Vinyl door edge for back edge of Quietline hood # 8451A47
Heim joints;
Steering: (4)
3/8"-24 Internal Thread-Right Hand Shank
# 4444T931

Hydro Control Linkage: (1)
5/16"-24 Internal Thread-Left Hand Shank
# 4444T922

Hydro Control Linkage: (1)
5/16"-24 Internal Thread-Right Hand Shank
# 4444T921

Clamp on shaft collars for clutch rebuild #6436K15
Spring Steel Round Shim to set camshaft end play, 0.005" Thick, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD # 90482A125
Brake pad relining material, 3/16" x 3" #6175K819
Screw in type, stainless steel grease fittings, 1/4" - 28 SAE-LT Male #1293K21
4140 5/8" Alloy steel rod for drive shafts (chrome-moly steel) #8927K98

http://midwestsupercub.net/MWSC2015.pdf
Clutch friction disc, Kevlar/fiberglass item # KD

Cedar Rapids tire
4 bolt on 4"front rims

Napa
5 gallon bucket of hytran equivalent (meets or exceeds International B-6 Specification)

Northern Tool
4 bolt wheel hub
1" weld on spindle

http://www.redoyourhorse.com/kohler-...-plate-decals/
KOHLER ENGINE SPEC PLATE DECALS

Steiner Tractor, wheel weights
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS331-wheel-weight-set

http://www.tirechain.com/23X10.50X12.htm

Zach Kerber Machine
6 pin driver
Blue Spring
Drive shaft
head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)
Solid engine mounts

Cross Reference Cub Cadet to NAPA; http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=36314

Hey, if you have any part numbers that you know will work with the Quietlines that would be helpful to add here, don't hesitate to send me a PM, thanks.

Index
 

So hey, if you find any information in my thread that is vague, misleading or just down right incorrect, feel free to send me a PM so I can make corrections. Thanks.

Air gap adjustment / front PTO clutch Page 17

Clutch assembly jig Pages 10 & 11

Clutch stuff Pages 1 – 7 & 10 - 14

Clutch stuff again Page 17

Carburetor Page 19

Decarbonizing Pages 18 & 19

Exhaust Pages 16 & 21

Gear box service & hydro Page 14

Headlights / worklight / taillights Page 15

Hitch Page 14

Hood hinge tighten up Page 17

Horn Page 15

Lawn rake / Dethatcher Page 14

Motor mounts/ Frame rail upgrade Page 17

Mower deck re fresh Page 21

Oil pan repair Page 17

Pictures of paint drying N / A

Quotes Page 21

Release arm repair Page 14

Snow thrower Page 17

Spindle upgrade Pages 16 & 17

Spring assist Page 14

Tires, front Page 18

Tune up Page 16

Valve adjustment Page 19

Wiring upgrade Page 15

Walbro carb stuff; https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs...table_carb.asp




So, if you have found any value to my thread, I would appreciate it if you would click the "Rate Thread" button at the top of the page and vote for the rating that you think it deserves, Thanks.

Did You Click the "Donate" button yet? Do it!

hope its ok to revive this ancient thread.
I almost have my jig, as shown about the middle of this long thread, done.

but I did something stupid. In building this jig to be able to safely rebuild clutches, I had an oops.... I know why and how it happened, and what I could have done different, but it is what it is. got complacent more than anything, and I shouldn't have used the rip fence along with the cross cut (miter) guide.... but I thought "only need 2, and great way to make sure the dimensions were right" since I had just ripped that 1" rough sawn oak to 2-5/8" wide, 2 saw-cuts before... for what ever reason. I had my 2 blocks cut, as called out in the thread, but for some unexplained reason I decided to cut a 3rd one " just in case" I split one while assembling, or something... and #3 was the one that bit me.
if I'd have stopped after the 1st 2 were done, I'd have been OK... should have used an aux fence that stopped short of the blade, clamped to the saw's rip fence... or used the chop saw for the cross cut... even if I just needed 1 block of wood that size. I did this last Sunday, and have since "taken the week off" from being in the garage. could have done with 2 days, but I want my forehead to be "less obvious" when I go back to the saw..... in case the neighbor comes out to see what I'm building while I'm over there.
I 1st ran a table saw, ~40 years ago (my Dad's) and though its not something that I do every day, it's something I have done plenty of, over the last 40 years// enough to know better I guess....but I still screwed up this time.
In cutting the 2-5/8" X2-5/8" X 1" thick blocks, one of them decided to kick back on me, deflect off my right thumb which was holding a push stick, (and cut it, too) right into my forehead..... Its almost healed now, but was bad enough to freak out the wife/ and get her to try and drag me to the ER to be stitched up....:BB&YS: told her I wasn't going anywhere-- and didn't. It drew blood, which I had stopped up, before she saw me.....
I have owned a few table saws myself over the years. and used them plenty.
especially during, and for a few years just after, high school.
It seems that in these days of Craigslist and such it's easy to buy such a piece of equipment for the duration of a project then re-sell it when done.
I sold my last table saw a couple years ago for space considerations, and because I have a neighbor who was constantly on me-- "hey, I'm only 2 doors down, and have anything for woodworking that you'll ever need"... I had given him my radial arm about 10 years ago, besides....which he still has. so I was over there cutting out all these blocks of wood.. I cleaned it up, came home, and didn't tell him what I did.... he'd laugh it off at this point anyways... but being he is a retired nurse and his wife is still a nurse, I might get a bit of a "talking to", that would be the worst of it from him.... but I vacuumed all the sawdust and wiped up my blood stains and went home.... no biggie (but it "could have been") My Dad had a He11 of a wood shop too/ that equip is still there, my brothers use it all the time, but they aren't 30 miles away from the old house, either, like I am.
I have 1 more piece to cut... gotta rip a 4X4 down to the 2-5/8 X 2-5/8" and cut it to (I forget which, it isn't in front of me) either 6" or 8" long then I can glue and screw, and I can try my jig out on this PITA 1200 that is clogging my garage and get it outta here. ( it ain't the machine that is a PITA, but the machine's owner)

Remember no pictures it never happened. No that's ok, spare those with weak stomachs. Those power tools can bite you.

dodge trucker, Sorry to hear about your accident and am glad that it wasn't more severe.

Hope the jig works out for you. :ThumbsUp:

I've had worse.... up til a couple of months ago, not anything worth mentioning in a long while, but since mid Aug, I think someone upstairs thinks I gotta "make up for that" somehow.

Kickback is the most common mishap on a table saw. Glad you weren't hurt worse. I always stand to the side when ripping. I did once, maybe 25 years ago, have a long thin piece kick back and dent the door behind the saw. Luckily, I was off to the side or it might have impaled me. Or at least left a bruise.

just posting here instead of starting a new thread, to keep it from getting buried 50 pages back once again, but had to do much of the same to this 1200 I am working on for somebody else, as detailed within these last 23 pages. I hope thats' OK because it does relate to "two ton"s experience and commentary.

owner ruined the clutch in short order (was a non reinforced disc and only ever used to mow with) with new Kerber clutch driver and plates...

found wallowed holes in clutch fork hanger and fork itself... I fixed it similar to what is shown earlier in thread, I used 4, 3/8" X 3/4" OD shaft collars... though when I was looking thru the hardware section at Menard's for an idea on how to beef this up, I got to thinking that a sleeve off of a car alternator (where the mount bolts pass thru) would have the right ID, and being I have a chop saw I could make my own collars. I welded them onto the outside of the hanger bracket holes and the inside of the fork.
I also made the bottom of the fork on this unit more of a "U" shape, instead of an "L," by use of 1/8X3/4" metal bar stock, welded onto fork from the bottom, to where it flares out near start of pass-thru hole for driveshaft. I did run that added metal, all the way to where the vertical lip on that side of fork, ended.
also, I found that the washer was missing between spring and fork on adjustment rod... The spring was poking thru clutch rod hole. I had to "unscrew" it from the hole provided for the adjuster rod in the fork.... when I had it apart before, I never had that adjuster rod out of the fork, would not have removed it this time either, had I not discovered the spring winding thru that hole. so must have been there like that, from the guy I got it from, before I sold it.

On this machine, I went back with OEM reinforced disc, new T/O bearing and sleeve, new teaser and cup, new spirol pins all along, and new blue clutch spring. only things reused, were the driveshaft itself, (no wear, as I have seen in various illustrations on this site, just a few pits under where the main spring rode on driveshaft) and the trans end coupler with the ball bushing. both were in good shape, no slop noted.
Being the clutch plates only had 25 operating hours on them, from brand new, max, I simply resurfaced them on a belt sander, did not take much.... just wanted to get rid of the off- center "stain," leftover from the last disc.

and there are a lot of "little bits" on one of these tractors, that add up to a lot of play, within the clutch apply system. didn't really think of that issue til I found out I had to re replace the clutch and saw this thread, as I was reassembling each component, it was like "I remember seeing something on the OCC site about that". there was some backtracking needed but none required disassembling the clutch and driveshaft a 2nd time. any welding and dressing/ grinding that had to be done on the fork, was able to be done with it being "trapped" along the driveshaft, before reinstalling the assembly into the machine.

It has been a while (not counting, when I originally put this tractor back together, like 1-1/2 years ago) since I did my last CC gear drive clutch... which was on another 1200. On that one, I originally went with an aftermarket "stress proof" shaft, which instantly bent like a swooping jump rope and broke within a couple minutes of initial fire up.... went back with a brand new oem stock driveshaft and no problems since, on that one.... but because of the years since I did that one, I have a little "CRS" going on.... that was before I knew anything about the "cradle mod" and I used GM sway bar link bushings.... on this tractor I mounted the engine solid.... with the mounts that were originally bought, for that 1st machine. and yes I did do the cradle mod, when I 1st put the fresh engine and 1st new disc in place, about 1-1/2 years ago...

but what I DO remember, from when I did that other 1200 (NOT the same tractor as I have been farting with recently, but it is owned by the same guy as the one I am currently fixing up) I did not put the spring clips back on with that clutch. At the time I redid the clutch on that 1200, I mentioned on what ever tractor forum I was on at the time (I hadn't yet heard of this one) that I left them off, and you would have thought I did a cardinal sin....

yet here on this forum, I hear of people leaving those out all the time. I did buy 3 new ones along with the rest of the clutch parts for it.... and have them here.
I have heard that you only use a spring clip on one of the 3 driver pins, I have heard that they are needed on all 3 driver pins, and I have heard not to replace those, leave them off. Confusing. Which is right? and why? does it depend on intended use of machine? I wondered if the lack of those was what led to the original disc that I put on THIS tractor having a short life. Is there a difference in what is recommended with regards to those little clips based on metal reinforced vs non reinforced disc? the engine is going back in tomorrow. hopefully I get some feedback, before I reinstall the engine.
and 1 more thing... with the blue spring in place, I am surprised that the force needed to release the clutch, isn't stiffer than it is.

aside from these questions/ observations, pretty much the job went just like you see among the previous 23 pages. to merge this thread with Merk's clutch thread would be a good sticky for future members that have to do this job. except I would hope that anyone else going thru this repair would do so without the "Tim Taylor" moment, that I experienced... blood... arrgh arrgh that happened while building the wooden jig, that itself is meant to be able to take the danger out of compressing that spring and driving the spirol pin into the shaft without launching the assembly into oneself....

Hello, it was not those missing spring clips that caused the clutch failure. It was the worn out holes on the clutch fork and holder not allowing the throwout bearing to be pulled straight. I have a blue spring in a 100, piece of cake. Mike:beerchug:

I'm not 100% convinced that that was the whole cause, though it may have contributed. the pressure plates sandwich the disc between them and there was no slop or play between those and the driveshaft. so even if the fork pulled on the throwout bearing a little off kilter, it would still have to pull back even, unless the throw out bearing sleeve and the pressure plates had room to wobble on the driveshaft. Knowing the idiot that now owns this thing, and seeing how he treats it, (which it seems that is getting worse the longer I know of him) is as much of a cause of the short clutch life, as anything that I found with the machine, as I went thru it the 2nd time around. the 1st time it got new driver and pressure plates along with that new, non reinforced disc
this time it got the better disc and everything but the shaft itself that wasn't replaced the 1st time. If it goes again, this machine can sit in the barn and rot

as I think that I have said about that before, I can go out and jump on any of his machines and run them for hours on end without incident... time after time. He gets on one and within 15 minutes something is broke. sometimes I'm out there mowing on one while he is mowing another part of the yard at the same time. and I see some of the stupid things he does.....

I try to keep up with him and his carnage, because he used to work with me a couple jobs ago, he lets me use a barn that he isn' t using for free, to store my own junk, and has enough property for me to go out and play with my own machines, something that I don't have.

Lots better. And the whole machine is smoother now than it ever has been since I have been involved with it, solid mounts and all. I used 1 spring clip on it as the reproduction IH manual that I have, showed. I had bought 3 with the intent of putting 3 of them on there. Ran the snot out of it pulling my lawn sweeper around the last 2 days, it can now go back home and outta my way.

the ebay link goes to 3/8 idlers... or am I reading it wrong? I would prefer to "upgrade" to 1/2" so Im excited about your info..

1/2 inch belts won't fit your PTO or mower deck pulleys properly. Best to stick with the OEM belts.

Hmmm...:bigthink: so this doesn't fit properly?

Depends on the definition of "properly." The OEM belts are 3/8, and sit deeper in the pulley, contacting the sides of the pulley better than the 1/2 inch belts. Will yours work? I don't know. I've had problems with 1/2 inch belts rolling over in the PTO pulley when I tried one.

You've clearly been around long enough to make your own belt decisions, so I'll let it go at that. LoveOldSteel may not have your experience, so the comment was aimed at him.