Please,
lets not start the front/rear seal debate again.


Is it the PTO seal or the flywheel seal?
If pto seal it could of got damaged during installation.
is it leaking between the shaft and seal lip?
or between the seal and crankcase cover?
the outside of the seal needs a light coating of sealant.
I use Hondabond or Yamabond as it works better than RTV snot
And the ID of the seal where it rides on the crank, needs a little bit of grease so It don't start off dry and wear excessively.
A Genuine Kohler seal has lube in the seal already.
Do not use too much sealer on the pto seal as it clogs the drain back hole from the main bearing and it will blow the seal out of the crankcase cover if the PTO clutch is not installed, or if the PTO is installed, it will blow the seal lip out around the crankshaft if a glob of RTV is in the drain back to sump hole.
Those oil pumps will push in excess of #80 on a cold engine. :bigthink:

Laid my head down last night and thought " Oh no I opened up the
which end is the front debate" I wrote it up wrong.
We are talking the back of the engine. PTO side.

It is leaking between the shaft and the inside lip. I have an extra seal
so i will put that in and give it another go.

My thought on the breather was maybe I was just getting to much crank
case pressure?
What does the inside of the breather look like when it is operating as it should,
is it pretty oily or just a little bit?

Thanks for the help Again.

Ken

More importantly are you getting oil in the air cleaner from the vent hose ?
The top metal cover of the element, usually has a drop of oil on it, but not dripping oil and running off into the element and making a mess.
A re-ringed engine will have a little bit of "puff" or blow-by till the new rings seat fully.
You either have a reed valve, or an orange neoprene check valve disc
in the valve cover.
If it is intact and installed correctly, it should be ok,
I can't remember if they can be installed improperly.
Did you remember to install the short orange piece of neoprene hose on the retainer studs between the check valve plate and cover? it prevents oil usage.
Some are lost, forgotten/omitted or overlooked.:bigthink:
Note:
Do not open the oil filler cap with the engine running, it will make you very unhappy if you do, just trust me! :bash2:

The breather has the orange disc and not the reed valve. Am thinking
it's more then likely fine. And the stud cover deal is in place. I did have to
make a filter out of a mesh scrubby from the kitchen sink.:biggrin2:

Looking at the original seal I put in, it looked like I got a little nick in it.
I could have damaged it I reckon. Replaced it yesterday and we will
give it another go today. Except I can't open up the shop up because of
all the snow coming down, Grrrrrrrrrr.
All you out there have a great day.

Ken

Way better to have snow now!
I just hate it when it snows in July when a feller is trying to bale second cutting of hay!
it ruins a perfectly good day!:biggrin2:

Way better to have snow now!
I just hate it when it snows in July when a feller is trying to bale second cutting of hay!

Have planted plenty of Spud crops in the snow but have never baled in it,
It would tend to ruin things.

Got the leaky REAR seal resolved. Pulled the engine back out, re torqued
the heads. Hopefully today is finish up putting on tins and put er back
on the frame. Pretty amazing how quickly pulling it the second time is.
Sure helps when you've been there before AND IT"S CLEAN, you can see
what you are doing.

I took a couple hundred pictures of this process, darn good thing I did.
There were still things I couldn't remember how they went and had to
do some pretty go head scratchin.

Will pull the back end this week and do a reseal. Goal is April 1, just in
time to put in Peas. thanks again all. Have a great day.
KenAttachment 107550

Attachment 107551

Attachment 107552

Pulled the back end out of 1862 yesterday, went pretty good.
I still get kind of nervous when launching into stuff like this that I
have never done. You all have either made me more confident or
more dangerous, depends on the day I suppose.:biggrin2:

Supposed to be high 40s today so will haul it outside for a pressure
washing.

Am a bit on the fence about replacing the axle carrier gaskets and
the axle oil rings. Those specific places are virtually dry, no goo.
Looks like most of the leaking is taking place at the cork gasket, hydro
valves and the rear plate is messy for sure.
Have done a bunch of archive reading on this project, invaluable.
Thanks again to all that have made that possible.:beerchug:

KenAttachment 107567

Attachment 107568

Attachment 107569

While you have the rear out the axle seal and tube gaskets are easy. It's also a good time to drill oil return drain back holes into the main case.:beerchug:

Maybe a bit of a dumb question here but.
If a person takes out the bolts that attach the axle housing #1 to the
differential housing. And then pulls the clips #9 from inside the
differential. Will the axles come out with out pulling anything else.
After taking the brakes off as well.

What exactly do the new drilled holes do? :beerchug:
KenAttachment 107572

If you remove the brakes and the clips the axles will come out. You don't need to remove the axle tubes.

The reason to drill the drain holes is so that the condensation that accumulates in the tubes can drain when you do an oil change. As it is it gets trapped in the tubes and if enough water gets trapped it has been know to freeze and crack the tubes. You can get the water out with a suction gun once you pull the axles. This was from a 1572.:beerchug: