It does matter if it is one of the first few off the line.

What would be considered the first few? I think I read that the 100 started at 65000 if so mine is 65951. Certainly not one of the first couple but in total it is low.

????

I am a novice on these cubs so I appreciate everyones guidance. You guys have a keener eye than I do for what matters.

I know it will be fair amount of work to swap the reduction units out, but I appreciate the older tractors and would rather do it right if it matters to people.

I have decided to take the time and effort to swap the reduction units. I think it is important to try and keep its identity as complete as possible.

Thanks for the responses.

Bill

Interesting day. The only good thing about all the rain we have been having is that I can work on this project.

Started out with the 1023E getting at the old transmission that was stored out back on pallet. I brought it into the barn and drained a little oil out. Not much as the PO probably never filled it again. Removed the outer cover and then the large reduction gear with no big surprises. I removed the 4 bolts and the intention was to pull the housing forward and the brake disk was suppose to slide off the shaft. However part of the shaft came with it. Well now I know what the problem was on this one. Not sure how this would have happened. Everything seems to be free and the brake disk could move within the two linings. It was snug but I could move it by hand. So that is a mystery.

I also removed the brake retainer that has one of the brake liners on it and grease everything and replaced the "o" ring. It now moves freely. Then I spun the reduction rear input shaft and there was a rough spot in the bearing so I ended up pulling that also.

Once I was sure everything looked Ok I took the installed transmission apart. That one also has the creeper installed so a few more steps to get the reduction housing off.

The bearing for the reduction input shaft on this one was nice and quiet so I swapped it into the housing I am going to use. The brake disk in the older assembly was also better than what was installed in the running unit so I pressed out the broken piece and checked to make sure there was no damage and that it slid onto the shaft as it should.

Now back to waiting on gaskets and the new seal for the reduction input shaft.

Good work Mr. Job. The correct police are giving you the thumbs up right now. Not too bad to tear into one of these. I had a very noisy 800 rear end that I completely disassembled and reassembled and found nothing wrong but the noise vanished after I was done so I guess it fixed itself. :biggrin2: keep up the good work, we are watching.

A good day's work! I've never seen one broken there before. The stories these machines could tell...

Looking really good!! That is some real carnage!! I have never seen that shaft broken and not really sure how one would do that!?:bigthink:

Keep up the good work.. you are going to have a nice tractor when done!:beerchug::beerchug:

For what its worth... I think you did the right thing keeping that serial number with that tractor..:biggrin2::biggrin2: just my opinion.. plus you got to learn a little more about those rears!

Thanks guys. Very interesting project.

Not much progress. No rain so doing yard work. In my effort to get everything back to original I found that the tie rod was not. Didn't realize it until I started to prep it. Anyway I had the original in my box of parts, just needed new tie rod ends. Will need to do the final adjustment once the tires are on and back together.

Putting the transmission back together today. Will be slight delay because when the parts came in I was missing one of the axle seals. Hope to get that in today or tomorrow.

When I am ready, what are thoughts on the transmission fluid. I know the owners manual says SAE 30 weight or Hy-Tran fluid. Wondering about using a gear oil like 85-140.